June 23, 2009
From Hartland Nursery
We’ve been looking forward to this trip for a few weeks. As Tom’s family were not able to get together for Easter, Jim, Tom’s cousin, suggested and then booked a Delta Eccotour. Hartland Nursery. on Grand Island, run several boat trips a year and we were booked on the Tule Wilderness tour on June 6.
Tom and I left very early – so nothing new there. We decided to go via Suisun to have breakfast at Bab’s Delta Diner. After another fabulous breakfast, we made our way through Rio Vista and over the two ferries, thus retracing our previous trip.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
After crossing the Steamboat Slough to Grand Island we tuned left and drove a couple of miles to Hartland Nursery. The tour started at 10.00 but we were asked to report in by 9.30. Tom and I arrived just before 9 so we were in good time. Hartland Nursery is mainly a wholesale retailer to landscape and restoration professionals but is open to the public on Wednesday and Saturdays. They specialize in plants native to Northern California’s Central Valley.
Tom and I had plenty of time to wander around. I discovered, in a grove of gated woodland, lots of free range chickens. Later I found out the eggs are for sale and bought a dozen fresh eggs.
The rest of the family did not arrive until just before 10. We were getting worried and beginning to think we would have to go without them. Don and Arlene, Tom’s Dad and his wife, were unable to come at the last minute due to sickness, so our party was smaller than expected.
Captain Tule
The boat, the Tule Queen II, is a 45 seat catamaran. Today though there were only 30 people on board. Our driver and guide was Jeff Hart – known as Captain Tule. He is a naturalist and owner of the Hartland Nursery and he informed and entertained us for the four and a half hours of the tour.
We set off down Steamboat Slough and turned right on Sutter Slough. Captain Tule explained that the Delta was fresh water though there are some
who say it isn’t. It’s true that due to higher water levels there is more salt water flowing in.
The folks at Hartland Nursery are experts in growing plants native to Northern California’s Central Valley. They also specialize in an ecological approach to restoring natural wetlands and protecting levees. During the trip Captain Tule pointed out all the places we passed where they have landscaped, using various methods to stop the levees from crumbling. Many methods have been used by a variety of organizations over the years but the most successful have been by using rocks and plants. The roots of the plants attach the rocks to the levees themselves and the rocks stop the levees from being eroded by water and wave action.
On our right was Sutter Island and Ryer Island on our left. Traveling round the top of Ryer Island we entered Minor Slough and Prospect Island was on our right. An osprey was spotted almost overhead. I was hoping to see it hover and swoop but it flew steadily away from us.
Abandoned fishing boat named 'Merluccius' out of Fort Bragg.
Some of the land we passed looked neglected. Captain Tule called it ‘benign neglect’. There is not enough money around to maintain the levees or the land behind them. Due to subsidence, many of the islands are sinking and if the levees are breached, many acres of land will be under water. Then, of course, there is always the danger of earthquakes. The last major earthquake in the delta was before the levees were built. Now, many of them are in such sad repair, that, if an earthquake struck, it could be a catastrophe equal to Hurricane Katrina with Sacramento itself threatened.
Along Minor Slough we saw several interesting things. There was the abandoned fishing boat named ‘Merluccius’ out of Fort Bragg. It’s rusting hulk was grounded on the bank. We also spotted a green heron taking off. Captain Tule pointed out a Buckeye, with a lovely display of white flowers, on the bank.
We came to a waterway junction with the Sacramento River Deep Water Canal, which we proceeded to cross, and entered Cache Slough. Soon we turned right into Prospect Slough and entered the wilderness. On our left was Liberty Island. This was the focal point of our trip. Liberty Island was flooded when the levees were breached in 1998. Hundreds of acres of farmland were inundated and are still under water. It took nearly two hours to circumnavigate the island and it was an eerie trip. Not too many people venture this far up the delta and it is truly a wilderness. Taking a boat through the levees to explore what remains of the island would be dangerous but it would be an interesting expedition for kayakers.
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June 23 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
June 16, 2009
Santa Cruz Botanical Gardens
I read an article recently (can’t remember which magazine it was in) about the botanical gardens at Santa Cruz. I checked their website and looked at the map to see where they were. I didn’t see the actual address but they were on Empire Grade and from its position on the map it looked like, traveling from Santa Cruz, they were on the left side of the road. As the gardens were part of the University of California Santa Cruz campus I expected that there would be signs from the university pointing us in the right direction.
We did see signs for the Arboretum and Norrie’s Gift Shop but it was on the right hand side, so we continued along scenic Empire Grade for several miles. Eventually we decided to turn around and head back to the arboretum and ask there where the botanical gardens were. Well, of course, they are one and the same thing. If only I had printed a map from the internet I would have known that. What threw me was the fact that I was expecting it to be on the left hand side.
We parked just inside and deposited our $10 in the post at the entrance. There is no entrance fee as such and donations are much appreciated. Near the post was a box with maps inside so I helped myself to one.
A short walk uphill took us to the gift shop where I wanted to pick up a leaflet on the Hummingbird Trail but it didn’t open until 10. It was almost 10 so I took a stroll around the Aroma Garden nearby. Tom also started in the same garden but he soon disappeared with his camera, on a mission of his own. There was one plant which overpowered everything with its perfume but it took me a while to discover exactly where and what it was. At first I thought it came from some white flowers growing over a metal archway. It turned out to emanate from yellow flowers on a small tree. Unfortunately I didn’t see a label near the tree which told me what species it was.
At 10.15 the gift shop still had not opened but I saw somebody inside. He opened the door and apologized but the volunteer had not arrived yet. I asked if there was a guide to the Hummingbird Trail. He looked but could not find anything and then went ‘up the hill’ to see if he could find one. While I waited I wandered around outside looking at the plants for sale. Was nearly tempted to buy one but thought I would wait until we left, as I didn’t want to carry it around with me. Ten minutes later the man came back but had no leaflet. Once again profuse apologies. He did tell me the best place to go to see hummingbirds though so off I trotted.
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June 16 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
June 12, 2009
Cafe Brasil in Santa Cruz, California
We have wanted to try Cafe Brasil for some time but it has either not been open when we are passing (it opens at 8 a.m.) or there is a line out the door. According to the reviews, it is worth a visit, so here we are.
The outside of the building is striking – painted bright green and yellow with banana trees planted outside. There is a small car park at the back but the entrance is narrow and this roadway is also the exit. We parked on the street round the corner.
Inside there is a counter where you can purchase drinks to go. While we were waiting for our breakfast, there was a loud grinding noise. We concluded it must be ice bring crushed at the drinks counter – at least we hoped it was.
The cafe itself is small with about 13 tables, mostly for 2 or 6 people. The only seats at a counter are by the to go drinks counter. There are no booths. The tables are very close together. At first we had nobody sitting at the next able but when it became occupied we heard every word of their conversation, so obviously they could hear what we were saying.
We were impressed with the menu, apart from the fact that they do not offer oatmeal. Granola is there though. The names of the dishes were different but each had a full description. It was interesting just to read it all. Tom ordered Orfeu Negro – black beans (veggie or chili) over baguette, topped with two soft poached eggs, Mozzarella cheese and Brazilian salsa. Served with potatoes for $7.95. As for me, I ordered a Veggie Fritada – three eggs scrambled over potatoes, mushrooms, green onions, onions, tomatoes and baked with Mozzarella cheese and topped with salsa for $8.25.
The decoration inside was bright and colorful. There were pictures on the wall with a definite feel of Brazil. I particularly like the collage type art. On the wall near us was a 2D sculpture of a vase containing tropical fruity. Around it was a wooden picture frame – very unusual. Also on display were Brazilian produce to buy like salsa, coffee, juices and so much more.
Before long our food arrived. Both dishes were well presented and cooked to perfection. Mine also came with a basket containing three slices of soft baguette with pats of butter. Everything was really scummy. Tom barely managed to finish his Orfeu Negro but he really enjoyed what he did eat.
The trip to the restroom was pleasant and I loved the artwork. One was a cartoon picture of Rio de Janerio signed by the artist Perry Foster. The other was a bright print depicting Brazilian locals.
Would we come again – definitely. We love the food, the service is great and the prices reasonable.
June 12 2009 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
June 8, 2009
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
It was a little foggy over the Santa Cruz mountains when we set out but it should clear by 8 a.m. As we drove over the summit, the fog was thick. It was remarkable how few cars had their headlights on.
First stop in Santa Cruz was the Boardwalk. The streets around the Boardwalk are typical of most seaside resorts; small motels, cafes and gift shops. The classier hotels are further out. We parked at a meter opposite ‘The Hurricane Ride’. By the way, parking is free before 10 a.m. We’ll be gone long before then.
Last time we came here, we were able to walk through the Boardwalk to the beach. Not any more. Now there are locked gates manned by guards.
Dominating everything is the Casino building. It is large and garishly painted but has a lot of history. The original building was built at the beginning of the 20th century but it burnt down two years later. In 1907 the new Casino was opened and two years ago it celebrated 100 years of being in business. Although it is called the ‘Casino’, there is no casino. Inside there is a large arcade called Neptune’s Kingdom and a conference center called The Coconut Grove. The main feature in the arcade is the 18 hole miniature golf course with a pirate theme. Originally a swimming pool, called The Plunge, occupied that site but it was closed in 1963.
We walk past the Casino to get to the beach. Already there are small groups and families walking towards the beach with towels and coolers. I guess you have to stake out your pitch early. Later on this place will be heaving.
Rounding the corner of the Casino, we heard the sea lions, at rest under the pier, calling out. The sound reverberated against the buildings on Beach Street. Then we saw the beach with the pier stretching out into the bay. It is not a large beach but it is sandy. There are several volley ball pitches laid out which are a regular feature but today there were also some small soccer pitches.
I took a seat near the grassy area to the side of the Casino and start to write. Tom wandered off to take photos. I did spot him at one point down at the waters edge taking photos of the pier.
More and more family groups were arriving and most of the kids were wearing soccer gear. It finally dawned on me that there must be some sports event taking place today down on the beach.
The fog had disappeared, though it is still a bit hazy. There is a slight breeze but it is not that cold. I see Tom at the end of the beach near the
Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf
pier but I turn the other way. I wanted to find out what was going on at the other end of the beach.
The temporary soccer pitches were stretched all along the beach nearly to the end of the Boardwalk. People were busy marking out the pitches with white tape and erecting small goalposts and weighting them down with sandbags. In England we call this Five-A-Side football but here I discovered it is called Beach Soccer. The event is the 2009 Pro Am Soccer Championship.
There was a large, small moving, brightly painted yellow tractor like vehicle clearing the beach of rubbish. It’s turning circle was large and as I walked towards it, I had to make a huge detour to stay out of its way. It was fascinating to watch though as it deftly scooped up both large and small objects from the sand. When the tractor crossed the white tape, the conveyor pick up was lifted so it could be driven over the tape without damaging it. Every so often the operator stopped to use a litter stick to pick up trash which had blown onto the white tape. I could have stopped to watch for ages but it was time to move on. There was now a steady stream of competitors and families arriving for the soccer competition and it was time for breakfast.
Walking back along Beach Street towards the car, I spotted a mural painted on the side of a building. It depicted Beach Street in 1962, with iconic cars, Anne’s Koffee Shop in the foreground and Casa Alto Hotel and the ‘Giant Dipper’ in the background. The only thing that has not changed is the ‘Giant Dipper’ roller coaster, which still stands as a landmark and has done so since 1924.
June 08 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
May 22, 2009
Everybody getting ready for the Strawberry Fields Forever bike ride
Once again, we set out to do the 25 mile bike ride at the annual Strawberry Fields Forever event at Watsonville. Last year the day started out cold and foggy but today it is warm. As we drove out of the garage at 6 am, the temperature read 66 degrees. Watsonville is near the coast so it could well have been cold and foggy over there. Driving towards the Santa Cruz mountains on Highways 85 and 17, everything looked crisp and clear. Traffic was light and the sun shone. What more could we have asked for?
We passed or were passed by at least six vehicles hauling bikes. I wondered if they are all going to the same event. The nearer to Watsonville we got, the more bikes we saw. There were 1202 bikes taking part in the event. (Click on the images for larger versions)
Besides the 25 mile ride which Tom and I took part in, there were also a 100 kilometers and a 100 mile ride. Either one of those would have been just too much for us. We were not out to do it in a fast time. In fact, we made many stops. Tom had his camera of course and there were lots of photo ops. Last year, all the early starters were on the longer rides and Tom and I were the only ones for some time on the short ride.
When we turned off Highway 1 towards Watsonville and neared our destination, we saw lots of cyclists who had already started on their ride and when we approached the car park at Pajaro High School, the first lot was already full. There were certainly far more cyclists around than last year. Negotiating the car through the car park, with bikes being unloaded, people walking about and cyclists setting off, was hazardous.
While Tom unloaded our bikes, I went to register and to pick up the printed route. I was also given two red arm bands which were our meal tickets. I was under the impression that the 25 mile route did not get the lunch but I was not about to question it.
At 7.40 we set off, after covering ourselves in sun block of course. The first part was downhill and I knew that it would be a killer at the end of the ride.
At first there were three sets of arrows – green, yellow and red. We were following the green arrows. We turned right at the first set of lights. I should have checked the route map to see how far we had to go on Harkins Slough Road before our next turn but was relying on seeing the green arrows. Ahead I saw a hill and was bracing myself to get up it plus the sun block had got into my eyes and they were watering and that’s my excuse for missing the green arrow pointing to the right at Ohlone Parkway. We’d gone about three quarters of a mile before I stopped to check the map. Oh no, we have to climb up that hill again! Our situation was not as bad as another cyclist who had also stopped to check the map. She was on the 100 kilometer route and didn’t know she was supposed to follow the yellow arrows.
Eventually we were back on the right track. Our next instruction was to go 0.11 miles to the next turn but it was more like a mile. I thought we
Lettuce, lettuce and more lettuce. They don't call this the "salad bowl of America" for nothing.
gone wrong again but I had been watching out for the green arrows and didn’t see any at all. Eventually we saw a green arrow and turned onto Beach Street. This is where the strawberry fields began. After nearly two miles we turned onto Thurwatcher Road and were once again sharing the route with the yellow and red arrows. Consequently there were suddenly more cyclists around. There were strawberries all around us and lots of them looked ready to be picked. They were growing right next to the road. It was so tempting not to stop and sample some, but we resisted.
Just before a bridge over Watsonville Slough we stopped so Tom could take photos. Quite a few cyclists asked if we were OK or whether we needed help but I assured them we were fine. I sat on a crash barrier and started writing. We heard a noise behind us and thought it was a tractor but then Tom spotted a model plan and told me where to look. We watched it climb, swoop and execute loops. What fun.
It is amazing how the faster cyclists could carry on conversations with each other as they rode along and they were going at a steady speed. Tom and I are just casual weekend cyclists and this year we were not in top form. We had only been out a couple of times on our bikes – once on a short trip round the neighborhood one evening and our visit to Alviso last weekend. At this stage in the ride our legs were beginning to complain.
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May 22 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
May 17, 2009
Hobee's Restaurant in North San Jose
After our early morning bike ride on the levees at Alviso, I really fancied a bowl of oatmeal and Hobee’s is the best place for that. The nearest Hobee’s to Alviso on the way home is at River Oaks Parkway. This branch is a bit off the beaten track but it happens to be within walking distance of where I work.
As it is Mother’s Day, we were expecting a few people around but hoped Hobee’s at River Oaks would be less crowded. It was just after 9 when we pulled into the car park but already it was crowded. Tom did manage to find a parking spot where the bikes on the back of the car didn’t impede anybody.
Inside it was full but, as the wait was only 10 minutes, we decided to put our names down. We found a shady spot on a bench outside while we waited. It seemed we were called in no time at all.
Inside Mother’s Day helium balloons decorated the place. Over the cash registers by the entrance though, was a banner which said ‘Happy Birthday’. That might reference the fact that Hobee’s is celebrating 25 years of being in business. On the tables, a handwritten sign in the plant pot said ‘HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY!’ While we were looking through the menu, I was presented with a huge chocolate covered strawberry, decorated with a swirl of whipped cream and served on a small plate. It was delicious. Tom asked where his was and was told to come back on Father’s Day.
The Hobee’s menu always has specials on the front cover. Today’s specials all make reference to mother in some way. Tom chose Mother’s Special Salmon Omie served with coffee cake instead of hash browns. I, of course, went for the oatmeal.
This is one of the better Hobee’s – not that I have been to all of them. There are nine altogether and I’ve only been to five. I like the way this one is set out. There are no booths or seats up at a counter, just pine tables and chairs. Apart from the seasonal Mother’s Day decorations, the normal decor is big, bright prints of fruits and vegetable on the walls.
Hobee’s oatmeal is self serve from a bar. What I really like about their oatmeal are the sides to go on top. Today I was spoilt for choice with seven bowls to pick from. Beside the brown sugar, there were raisins, shredded coconut, cranberries, flaked almonds, mixed nut nibbles and walnut halves You can also help yourself to a piece of muffin. Sometimes it is small pieces of their famous coffee cake on offer. And, of course, you can visit the bar as often as you like.
Those are the good points but today I have three gripes. The oatmeal was very runny (but it tasted fine); the piece of muffin I had was stale and there was no milk. I did ask for milk and was promised someone would bring me some to the table. It never arrived but it was OK because there was milk on the table for coffee so I just used that.
I was a bit disappointed when I visited the restroom to find only one, very small picture of a couple of plums, on the wall. The restroom was very clean though with hot water and piped music playing softly in the background. There could, of course, have been the same music in the restaurant but due to the volume of noise out there it was impossible to hear.
We both enjoyed our breakfasts and we will come back to Hobee’s again and again.
May 17 2009 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
May 15, 2009
Levees at Don Edwards in Alviso. You can ride for miles.
Oh, to be out again in the early morning and on such a beautiful day. After a long break from routine due to my recent visit to England and a series of wet and cold weekends, we were ready for some exercise.
The bikes were loaded onto the car the night before and at 6:15am we were on the road. Alviso was our destination and the salt marsh and the miles of easy riding on the levees were our goal.
Alviso gets better each time we drive through it and the Marina area has really improved. An area of 18.9 acres near the car park is now called the Alviso Marina County Park and there is an easy walking trail around it with lots of information boards along the way. Today though we are riding on the Alviso Slough Trail which starts from the car park and the first part of the trail is along the the short circular trail around the marina. Just past the first observation platform we turned right.
At this time in the morning, there is nobody else around. In fact the rabbits outnumber us. They sit in the middle of the trail and then turn tail and lope off to the side as we approach. Tom stops to take photos and a couple of American Avocets take exception to him being there, even though we were on the trail. They screeched and screamed and attempted to scare him off. I remember a few years back being dive bombed by terns on the other side of Don Edwards as we were riding the trail.
Last time we where here at Alviso, there was a dredger working and mounds of fresh clay lined the levees. The mounds are still there but they
Avocet. This guy didn't want his picture taken.
have rounded off and are beginning to be covered with pickleweed.
The water level appears to be lower because there are more mud islands out in the slough which I have never seen before. Either that or it is a very low tide.
We follow the trail over the railroad and stop to look north at the inaccessible ghost town of Drawbridge in the distance. As I have said before, it’s very tempting to walk the rails and to actually visit the town but I understand it is not safe at all because Drawbridge is slowly sinking into the marsh.
We pass a sign which says this trail is closed for duck hunting between October 18 and January 25, so it’s OK to ride it now. We don’t go too far because there are just too many bugs around. They were getting in our eyes, mouths and noses and we were covered in them.
Back over the rail tracks, we turn right. There are no trail markers out here so I have no idea which trail we are on. We just keep cycling and eventually we will either go round in a loop and arrive back where we started or we will have to turn back and try to remember which way we came. The levees seem to go on and on for miles.
Lone Egret
Tom stopped in front of me and seemed to be pondering something so I stopped too. Then he pointed out the power lines overhead. I hadn’t noticed them at all but now Tom had pointed them out, it did seem strange to have them out here in the middle of nowhere with not a house or any sort of building in sight.
It was very peaceful out there with just the sound of the gulls and marsh birds. The American Avocets are making the greatest noise but the most common bird around is the Western Gull. A Red Kite passed overhead and circled over the slough.
We came to another junction and discussed which way to go but off to our right we spotted a flock of white pelicans, so the decision was made. There were about 15 of them and, to begin with, they were close to the levee but they moved off and were soon in a feeding frenzy. Pelicans are an unusual bird to look at with their long beaks with the big pouch underneath. Brown Pelicans are more common in California so it is always a rare treat to see white pelicans.
While Tom was taking photos, another couple on bikes came towards us. It was only after they had gone by that I realized I should have asked them if they were on a loop trail. We cycled on for another couple of miles but seemed to be moving further away from the start. As the hunger pangs were beginning to gnaw we decided to turn back. (I checked a trail map when I got home and it is actually called the Alviso Slough Trail Loop and it is 8.9 miles long so we could have carried on.)
The ride back was pretty uneventful until we were on the final stretch. Tom spotted a Red-tailed
White pelicans feeding
Hawk sitting on a log beside the levee eating a rat. I’d ridden right past and had not noticed. I did hear Tom, who was several yards behind me, say ‘Whoa’. By the time I had stopped and turned, the hawk had flown away, clutching the rat in his talons. But he didn’t fly too far and I was able to watch through my binoculars. Tom didn’t have time though to get off his bike and set up his tripod and camera before the hawk had moved out of view.
There is nothing like getting up early and taking a bike ride before breakfast to get you into the right mood for the day ahead.
May 15 2009 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | No Comments »
May 11, 2009
Beautiful Dale Farm House in Dibden. Charming B&B with the most wonderful breakfasts.
We hadn’t planned a trip to England at all, but my mother was taken ill at the beginning of April and I went across to be with her. Unfortunately my mum died a week later but I was able to spend a lot of time with her beforehand. Tom flew over later to be with me and we had a few days break before the funeral. After picking Tom up from Heathrow Airport, we took the scenic trip back to Taunton in the south west by driving through the New Forest.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
This is an area of approximately 145 square miles which I have been to many times but Tom had only skirted the perimeter. From the M27 we took the Cadnam road to Lyndhurst. Now I’m sure Lyndhurst is a lovely place but it took an awful long time to drive through it. Every road leading to it had a back up of traffic and it is like this every single time I have driven through it. It is a town which desperately needs a bypass. It took us long enough in April, but during the summer months it is even more of a nightmare.
Once through Lyndhurst, the journey became enjoyable and we could take pleasure in the countryside. In 1079 William The Conqueror named the area his ‘Nova Foresta’ or new hunting forest. Now, nearly 1000 years later, most of the forest has disappeared, mainly due to the navy taking the the timber to build their ships in the late Middle Ages. Today the area is a mix of woodland and heathland. The locals, or Commoners, are allowed to graze horses and cattle in the New Forest and these animals roam freely. The animals are prevented from straying too far by cattle grids. As you drive through the forest, you will see many ponies and they have the right of way. The speed limited is 40 mph on unfenced roads and it is necessary. We rounded a bend and came up behind two cows, which ambled along the road in front of us for about 200 yards before deciding to head towards a pond.
Our first stop though was in Lymington. This is a small town not far from the coast. We needed to book some accommodation and we have always found that the Tourist Information Office is the best place to do this. We parked the car near the center of the town and walked to the main shopping street. As we didn’t know exactly where the Tourist Office was, we stopped for a cup of coffee at an independent coffee shop and asked for directions. At the Tourist Office, a very helpful lady gave us a brochure to browse through. We prefer farmhouse bed and breakfast to hotels and there were several to choose from. As we were next visiting Beaulieu, we picked a place nearby. The lady telephoned and we were fixed up, leaving with a map of where the accommodation was and a phone number.
On to Beaulieu where the world famous Motor Museum is situated. Beaulieu is a very nice little village where some of the houses – those with
Motor Museum at Beaulieu
red painted front doors – are owned by the Beaulieu Estate. Beaulieu Estate, which comprises not only the National Motor Museum but Beaulieu Abbey and Beaulieu Palace House, has been owned by the Montagu family since the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth century. Our intention was to visit all three buildings but ended up spending all our time in the Motor Museum. What a fascinating place. Lots of vintage, classic cars and racing cars plus land speed record holders. There are over 250 exhibits. I particularly liked the one of a kind cars like Del Boys (Only Fools and Horses) three wheeler and Mr. Bean’s mini.
We left Beaulieu to drive towards Hythe, which is on the Southampton Water, and set out to find where we were booked for the night -Dale Farm House in Dibden. We had the instructions on how to get there but somehow got lost and ended up going up and down the same stretch of road and around the several roundabouts before we pulled off the road and rang the our host. Fortunately we weren’t too far away, we just hadn’t negotiated the right roundabout. Soon we were bumping down a unmade up road until we found Dale Farm. The setting was perfect.
We were greeted warmly by Christine Archdeacon, given a key to our room – which was at the top of the stairs (mind your head!). What a lovely room with an compact but impressive ensuite bathroom. The view from the window was outstanding. After lugging our suitcases upstairs and washing our hands we took a walk round the garden, meet the ducks, watched a couple of pheasants and admired the surroundings.
Time to get something to eat. Christine recommended some good restaurants nearby and we chose the nearest one which was the Pilgrim Inn at Marchwood. Right next door is a restaurant but it wasn’t open. Both buildings are under the same ownership and have recently been refurbished with brand new thatched roofs. Inside the pub there was another warm welcome. We could pick our own table and browsed through the mouthwatering menu. Our server was very friendly and we had a long conversation with her about photography. We both chose something from the specials on the blackboard – Tom had calves liver – now this was a bold step for him as he hasn’t liver since he was a child and he didn’t like it then – and my choice was a chicken dish. Before the meal Tom enjoyed his first pint of British beer this trip while I had a St Clements. The food was fantastic.
After a very comfortable night’s sleep, we were ready for our farmhouse breakfast at Dale Farm. Our host, Peter – complete with chefs jacket and harlequin trouers – greeted us as we walked into the restaurant and we had a simply wonderful breakfast. We filled up with cereal, a very colorful fresh fruit salad, yoghurt, fruit juice, the tastiest English cooked breakfast with local produce I’ve ever had, toast, home made marmalade and all washed down with several cups of tea. Peter spent a long time in conversation with us as until the other guests arrived and soon the room became full. Peter and Christine have spent several holidays in California and we told them to look us up if they come again. If you ever check this website out Peter and Christine, we looking forward to meeting up with you again.
May 11 2009 | Further Afield | 1 Comment »
April 27, 2009
Pine Cone Diner, Point Reyes Station, California
After our walk along the Limantour Trail, we were ready for breakfast. I had noticed that the Olema Farm House Restaurant at the junction of Sir Francis Drake Blvd and Highway 1 in Olema had a sign saying ‘Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner’ so we decided to try it out. We were out of luck though as the restaurant wasn’t open. We inquired at the Deli next door where we could get breakfast and were told that we could get an breakfast egg muffin there. We decided against that as we wanted something more substantial so drove back into Point Reyes. (Click on the photo for a larger version)
We normally eat at the Station House Cafe in the heart of Point Reyes Station on Highway 1 but today we drove around town to see if there was anywhere else. On a side street we discovered the Pine Cone Diner and decided to give it a try.
It’s a cute place and obviously been here for some time and is not very big. There are just five four seater booths and a couple of tables – one for six and one for two. There are 8 round stools up at the counter. There is also some seating outside. The tables and chairs were the old fashioned chrome type with yellow tops and upholstery.
Our server was not very welcoming at all, which was a pity. I expected a real friendly welcome so was disappointed. Service is neither slick or fast.
Tom ordered the Chorizo Scramble $9.75 and I ordered the oatmeal (made from Red Mill Oats) with bananas, walnut and raisins for $6.95 plus a side of toast for $2.00.
The decoration is quite charming. At the windows were bright and colorful curtains, which, on close inspection, depicted maps of all 50 states showing their main attractions and landmarks. One wall is devoted to a mixed collection of plates of all sizes, shapes and colors. Over the counter is a shelf displaying decorated glasses and a cut out frieze of farm and household animals. Also on the walls is a varied collection of paintings, prints, a map, awards and newspaper cuttings. The pine cone theme is echoed in a couple of tin trays, half a dozen containers and also hand painted onto the pelmets over the windows. Fresh flowers were on the tables but had obviously been there for a few days. All the decorative objects look genuine as if placed there by a caring family and not obtained by a corporation.
The food was good. My oatmeal came in a deep round bowl on a non matching plate. The walnuts (small and crumbly), brown sugar and golden raisins were served on the side. The milk was in a small, blue ceramic jug. Tom’s Chorizo Scramble was tasty and had beans in it.
The restroom was clean and cutesey. No complaints there.
We would go there again for the food and the cuteness of the place but the service leaves a lot to be desired.
April 27 2009 | Breakfast Log | 2 Comments »
April 7, 2009
View of lower part of Tamales Bay
We had a nice early start with a stop at Peet’s on Geary in the city for our wake-up beverage. North of the Golden Gate Bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd towards Point Reyes. The views after driving through Fairfax were really pretty, especially with the sun just starting to lighten the sky. Along the sides of the road wildflowers were beginning to appear. The hills are still winter green and everything looks fresh.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Just before San Geronimo, I noticed some hand painted signs on my left. Some were advertising a country dance, which was held last night. One said ‘Fiddle music makes you smile’. How charming. There were other signs inter mingled with those and I got the message that someone is not too happy about a tank tearing up the ridge. The last one said ‘Thanks, but not no tank’. Hey, this is Marin County so it goes with the territory.
At Olema, we turned right on Highway 1 and then left onto Bear Creek Road. We drove past the Visitors Center and then turned left again onto Limantour Road. Neither Tom nor I have been here before, so this will be a new experience for us.
There is nobody else around at all. We have the road to ourselves. And what a drive. Quail were abundant and darted across the road, with their necks outstretched and their fussy little steps. We stop at a lay-by with a view down to the south end of Tomales Bay.
We passed Sky Trailhead and there were some cars already parked. A little further on we had a spectacular view to the south. On the ridge we
Margaret writing. We were the only folks there.
could see some of the damage caused by the Inverness Ridge Fire 14 years ago but the forest is regenerating. Next we caught sight of Drakes Bay to the north.
The road dead ends in a large car park. There was just one other car there. As we got out of the car, we felt the bite of the wind but we had come prepared with our fleeces.
At the start of the trail, there is a noticeboard with information about the Coastal Watershed Restoration Project. Before the Point Reyes National Seashore was established. Limantour beach was privately owned and there were 20 homes there. Now it is being restored to its natural estuarine habitat and endangered species, like the California red legged frog, will be protected.
We follow the trail towards the beach, walking over a fairly new bridge. The trail then bears right but we decided to investigate the beach before heading down the trail. The path was sandy and crested a low rise range of sand dunes and then we were on the beach. And what a splendid beach – long, sandy and clean. The wind was a little fresh but the sun was shining. We were the only people on the beach and the only footsteps were ours. It was so peaceful to sit on a convenient driftwood log and write, with the soothing sounds of the gentle breaking surf.
Limantour Beach and the cliffs that reminded Sir Francis Drake of the White Cliffs of Dover.
Away to our right the pseudo white cliffs of Dover marched towards the lighthouse, which we couldn’t see because it was around the corner. No wonder Sir Francis Drake was reminded of England when he saw the cliffs. This is definitely the place to bring the kids but, be warned, there are no fast food restaurants or ice cream stands for miles and miles.
Back on the trail, we were on the look out for wildflower but we were almost out of luck. There were some wild iris’s but they were past their best and the lupine bushes were on the verge of blooming.
The trail is along the Limantour Spit. To the right is a marsh with a host of sea and shore birds. To our left are the dunes. The ocean can also be seen but not the beach.
A hawk suddenly flew over my head but I did not have time to identify it through my binoculars before it dipped out of view again. Tom was not able to get a shot of it either.
The trail became narrow and the marsh grass was partially covering the path. The fresh wind whipped the grass against my legs. I could feel the
The Marsh Hawk we saw several times that day
sting of it through my my thin pants. I thought it was just me but Tom commented on it too.
The trail peters out though I am sure it is possible to get right to the end. We did detour down towards the marsh on what I think was an unofficial rail but did not venture too far in case it became boggy.
We turned to go back and gloried in the absolute solitude of the place. Far from the sound of traffic with not even the vapor trail of a passing aircraft to mar the blue sky. Then we spotted the hawk again and Tom took some photos – hope they come out OK. I identified it as a Marsh Hawk.
After our bracing walk and all that fresh air, we were ready for breakfast.
April 07 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
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