Archive for November, 2009
After our stop at Pomponio State Beach, it was time for breakfast and we headed for the only place between here and Santa Cruz – Gazos Grill -
Gazos Grill along the San Mateo Coast
which is halfway between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo. We had to slow down as we were passing the lighthouse and then stop for a roadblock. There was a sign warning of a bike race taking place and Highway 1 was down to one lane for a short stretch. Sure enough, there were lots of cyclists and the lighthouse was the turnaround point.
Due to the number of cyclists on the road we had to be careful pulling into the car park of Gazos Grill. There were several people along the way watching the race and at least one photographer sporting a big lens. When I got home I checked online to see what the bike race was all about. Apparently it was Big Kahuna Half Ironman Distance. It was due to start with a 1.2 mile swim around the wharf in Santa Cruz starting at 7 am but due to heavy fog it was cancelled. The 56 mile bike ride and the 13.6 run went ahead though.
The last time we visited Gazos Grill we back in November 2007. Then we were the only customers. Today it was reasonably busy thanks to the bike race I expect.
We picked one of the high tables in the window with a restricted view of the ocean but a good place to watch the bikes racing by.
There was no oatmeal on the menu but I remembered from last time that is is available sometimes. When the server came to take our order I asked and today it was available so, of course, that’s what I requested. With fruit it is $5.95. I also had toast ($1.75). Tom ordered the San Gregorio Eggs Benedict which came with smoked salmon ($14.95).
Gazos Grill used to go by the name of the Beach House and the sign is still outside. It is a large restaurant separated into two sections. Some evenings they have bands playing and over the next few weeks there are several dances and parties planned.
There are no booths or a counter so not your typical diner. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The place is adorned with a vast array of pictures and posters of lighthouses, whales, elephant seals and all things nautical. In fact, lighthouses seem to be the main theme. On one wall there is a vast net hanging on the wall with fish and shellfish sculptures fixed to it. On each table was a single, almost fresh, flower in a vase and a small pumpkin.
The oatmeal came in a large round bowl with sliced strawberries and bananas. The milk came in a very small brown ceramic jug . There was not enough milk so halfway through the meal I asked for some more, which was promptly brought to me.
The restrooms are on the far side of the restaurant and although pretty standard as far as basic facilities were concerned they were lavishly decorated with pictures. The nautical theme was carried through from the restaurant. There was a laminated poster of coral pinned to the wall, a colored photo of a local beach and a rather tatty picture of mussels taped to another wall. There were also six framed pictures of beach scenes and one of the ‘I Love Lucy Show’, which, of course, has nothing to do with anything nautical. Next to the wash basin was a jug with a fish on the front. Last time there was also an easy chair here but missing this time. One other comment, the water was brownish in color.
Our conclusion – on the plus side it’s in a convenient location and it’s interestingly decorated and my oatmeal was good with ample fruit but on the negative side, Tom said his eggs could have been cooked a bit more as they were a bit runny and on the whole the food is a bit expensive.
Gazos Grill
5720 Cabrillo Highway 1
Pescadero, CA 94060
November 30 2009 | Breakfast Log | Comments Off
The beach looked nice but not the way down.
The challenge we set for ourselves today was to investigate some of the coastal accesses south of Half Moon Bay on the San Mateo coast. We normally head for our favorite spots like Franklin Point or Pigeon Point but there are many other places, some of which are private and some are unofficial.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We checked the weather before we set off and it looked like it was going to be a great day. When we set off all seemed to be clear and no sign of fog. Imagine our surprise when we heard on the radio that there was a fog advisory for the San Mateo coast. We discussed whether going to the coast would be a good idea. Maybe we should revise our plan and head east. Eventually we decided to continue with our plans and if we ran into thick fog, we could turn around and go elsewhere.
There was a bit of low lying fog at the junction of Highways 280 and 92 but not bad enough to turn back. Driving into Half Moon Bay was clear. The weekend before the Half Moon Bay’s annual Pumpkin Festival was held and we passed many huge pumpkin patches still with lots of pumpkins exhibited for sale. I expect there will be loads of families turned up later in the day looking for the perfect pumpkin.
In Half Moon Bay, we stopped at a drive through coffee kiosk at the junction of Highway 92 and Main Street. Although it was lit up and the ‘Open’ sign was flashing, we were dubious that it was actually open for business but we were pleased to discover it was. A very courteous youth opened the window and sold us two strong cups of very hot coffee.
Through Half Moon Bay we headed south on Highway 1 looking out for signs which said ‘Coastal Access’. We passed a road which was called
San Gregorio Beach along the San Mateo Coast
Redondo Beach Road. Did that mean there was a beach at the end? We didn’t want to take the risk. The first brown ‘coastal access’ was at Miramontes Road so we turned right. We passed a very small car park but doubted whether that led to the beach so we carried on. What we didn’t realize was that at the end of the road was the very exclusive Ritz Carlton Hotel with it’s expensive golf course attached and there was no stopping unless we were headed to one or the other. It was just after 7 and we were surprised how many people were not only out on the course but were still turning up. We beat a hasty retreat and headed back to the one small car park we had passed earlier.
At one time all the headland would have been accessible but when the land was bought and the hotel built I guess they had to provide some public access to the beach. The very small car park and one right of way to the beach, which cuts through the golf course, was their token of compliance. We did not bother to investigate any further and carried on with our quest.
We passed two marked roads to the beach but they were closed off. Our next stop was at an unmarked access. To the right was a wide gravel shoulder with a couple of overnight camper vans parked. The only point of reference was a blue San Mateo call box sign – telephone number SM001-205. The access was downhill and very steep but we went for it.
The path was twisty and deeply rutted. The recent heavy rains have gouged a deep crevice all the way down and the ground is still damp and slightly muddy. The view were spectacular though. Off to the right the sheer cliff extends into the ocean, probably the Ritz Carlton is on that peninsula. Tom stopped to take photos so I clambered on down but could not make it all the way to the beach. It is possible but the final stretch was via an unstable almost vertical drop with just a collection of tatty ropes tied to stunted bushes to prevent a headlong fall. At my age, I don’t think so. I intercepted Tom before he reached that point and we climbed back up the steep incline. At least we know not to come here again.
We drove on to San Gregorio Beach. This is a state managed beach with a proper car park right on the beach. There is a fee to be paid. At 8.30 in the morning the kiosk was unmanned but there are envelopes available to post your fee. The charges are $8 for day use ($7 for seniors) but if does allow you to use all the state beaches on the same day.
Egret at Pomponio Beach
Tom and I have been to this beach several times and each time it is different. For some reason a lot of driftwood is washed up here – mostly huge logs. I wonder where they all come from? There are always temporary structures built with this driftwood and today was no exception. One looked like a log cabin. Maybe somebody was sleeping inside. The beach itself is sandy with a large lagoon. Of course, the lagoon is always a different shape each time we come. There are notices up telling anglers not to breach the lagoon because it will kill the fish. I took a short walk along the beach and then found a convenient log to sit on and write. The sun was beginning to warm everything up.
The next state beach is Pomponio. This is very much like San Gregorio but here both the lagoon and the amount and size of the driftwood is on a smaller scale. No driftwood structures here but what was man made were a couple of huge forts made out of sand. They had obviously been made yesterday and beyond reach of high tide. I also noticed washed up on the bach lots of tiny dead white crabs. The cliffs here are interesting as well because they are high and studded with rows of small stones.
We by-passed Pescadero State Beach, which has three access pooints, due not only to lack of time but it deserves an entry all to itself at a later date. It was here we took a breakfast break – see next entry.
Our next and last beach stop was at Bean Hollow State Beach. There is a car park at each end and we used the sourthern end. This is one of our
Strange rocks at Bean Hollow State Beach
favorite beaches as it has everything that we look for in a beach – scenic views, lots of wave action, sandy and little used. Once again the rocks were interesting but completely different from Pomponio. Here they are sandstone (I think) but with lots of holes in them which made them look like honeycomb. One of the taller rocks, looking at it from a distance, reminds me of a man made town on a mountainside. Tom and I both have different interpretations as to how the holes are formed. Tom thinks they are caused by wave action whilst I believe the holes were made by burrowing shellfish of some kind. If anybody out there knows the answer, we would be interested to hear from you.
I walked to the end of the beach to see if there was any way through to the northern end. The tide was fairly high so could not make much progress along the beach although it may be possible to clamber over the rocks. At the top of the beach I noticed a footpath which heads over the bluffs so ventured along it a little way. Indeed there is a trail alongside the road which goes to the other end. I discovered a secluded little cove where a couple were enjoying a picnic. It was a perfect location protected from the wind, unless the breeze was coming off the ocean.
The weather turned out to be glorious in the end. The slight early morning haze had completely disappeared with tempretures up in the 70′s. Thank goodness we did not change our plans.
Although we checked out quite a few coastal access locations, there are several we did not have the time to do today. Apart from Pescadero State Beach, there is also Gazos Creek, Pigeon Point and one other place between Bean Hollow and Pigeon Point. We’ll have to save those for another day.
Nice scene in Pescadero
We decided to take another route home past Butano State Park and along Pescadero Creek Road to cross Skyline Blvd. But first of all a short stop in Pescadero. It is always a pleasure to revisit this special place. Duartes Tavern was bustling. I noticed that the signs for ‘The Rock Guy’ were not on the telegraph posts in the street. When I got home I checked online and found one small reference to the fact that he died this past winter. Another local ‘character’ that will be missed.
We had a look round Made in Pescadero. We love their hand made furniture and the smell of wood but the prices are a little out of our budget. In Arcangeli’s Country Bakery we bought some sourdough garlic bread, just out of the oven, and half a pound of mild cheddar cheese. Just right for a little picnic. There were signs in the store to say they now had a picnic area at the back of the store next to the Pescadero Creek. So we went to have a look. It is always interesting to check out buildings from the back. The picnic area is nice and quiet and there was nobody else around. On our stroll back to the street, Tom pointed out some flowering artichokes in the garden next door. I had never seen those huge thistle like flowers before.
After finishing our stroll around Pescadero, we made our way back to the car and the very pleasant drive home. The end of another perfect day.
November 19 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
The Intrepid explorers
No time to go out for breakfast this morning but we made do with coffee, tea and oatmeal from a packet. The canoe tour starts at 9 but the instructions said to get there a good 15 minutes before the start. At 8.30 we walked from the cottage, past Russell’s wood shop and along the path to the levee. In less than five minutes we were at the boat ramp. Then we waited, and waited and waited. A couple of fishermen arrived but they knew nothing about any canoe tour. We consulted the instructions, map and leaflet again and both agreed we were in the right place but where was everybody else. Was this going to be a repeat of the walking tour yesterday? There was no sign of any canoes anywhere which was a worrying thing.
Eventually, just before 9, three cars turned up and when people got out they were wearing life jackets and carrying paddles. A very good sign we thought. We went up to speak to them and found out that they had been met a quarter of a mile back up the road where they had to sign in and choose their life jacket and paddle. Of course we had just walked from Locke and had bypassed all of this. I guess not many people actually walked to the boat ramp.
Tom and I walked quickly the quarter of mile back along the road. I was worried that the person who signed the others in would have given up and left but we were in luck. The signer in was also the guide so she was still waiting for us to arrive. We signed the form and picked up our equipment and walked back to the boat ramp. Soon after we had rejoined the group, the jeep arrived with the canoes and we helped unload them.
There were 12 people altogether including the guide – who was called Robin. This is a novice tour so Robin went over a few basic rules. She told us
Margaret as we're heading back to dry land.
that the strongest person sits in the back and steers. She also explained how to get in and out of the canoes; the important thing to remember is not to stand up and to put all the weight on one foot at a time.
Off we set. None of us had no trouble getting into the canoes, though it felt a little unstable to me. Tom sat in the back and I was in the front. Tom has kayaked before but has not been in a canoe for a long time and never in a two man canoe. It took some time to get used to working as a team. Of course I could not see what Tom was doing at all but at least I had a good view of what was going on in front.
We were canoeing on the Railroad Slough which dead ends in about a mile. Robin explained that the slough was formed when workers dug out the soil by hand to build the railroad levee. Most of those workers lived in Locke I’m sure. We managed to get to the end of the slough without too much difficulty.
At the end there is a huge marshy area and we were going to see how far we could get into the marsh. At first it was quite wide and two or three canoes could be abreast but the further we went the narrower it became and we had to go single file.
We passed a huge heron rookery which has been in use by the birds for a couple of decades. Today we only saw a couple of herons flying and we spotted a few nests built high up in the oak trees, In the springtime there are hundreds of herons nesting in the trees so that would be a good time to make this trip.
When the slough got narrower it also began to twist and turn more. On several occasion Tom and I got too close to the vegetation. The first time it happened I began to panic a little but we managed to get clear. What was really bothering me was the fact that there was no dry land at all nearby so what would I do if the canoe overturned?
I think this guy is lost
The water began to get shallower as well and we could put our paddles down and touch the muddy bottom. Mud was being displaced when we paddled. Soon we could go no further so we stopped for a break. We couldn’t get out but we snacked, drank water and chatted. There was a bit of current around so we drifted around a bit though some clever people had managed to wedge themselves into the reeds so they did not move. It was good to have a rest from the paddling for a few minutes.
We then went on to explore another spur of the marsh but that came to a dead end when there was no clearance between the canoes and the slough bottom. At one point, another couple grounded themselves on a submerged log but we managed to get them clear.
It was time to head back. Now we were going not only with the current but with the wind behind us. Everything seemed much easier somehow and we could take our time to look and study the wildlife all around us. We spotted some turtles sunbathing on tree stumps sticking out of the water. As we glided past they slipped into the water with barely a plop. Our most memorable sight though was seeing three deer jump into the slough ahead of us and swim across to the other side. I noticed the three splashes and could see something in the water but had no idea what they were. As we got closer we could see by the ears that they were deer.
In no time at all it seemed we were back at the boat ramp. The first couple to attempt the landing had a mishap. The lady in the front obviously forgot the instructions Robin gave in the beginning about keeping the weight on one foot. As she got out of the canoe it drifted away from the edge and she landed in the water. Fortunately she did not hurt herself. Everybody else of course made sure they did not make the same mistake.
It took ten minutes to get all the canoes out of the water and back onto the trailer. Then we said our farewells to the the group and walked back into Locke. As we passed the Wood Shop, Deborah came out so we walked back together to her house. Russell was inside and good to his word he had the cutting board ready for us. We had an interesting chat with them about Locke and the history of their particular house. Russell bought it for $50 from a guy in Al the Wops Bar in 1976. It used to be a boarding house for aged Chinese men. At that time though it was very dilapidated and half buried in the dirt. Russell literally rebuilt it from the foundations to the roof, diving it into two, with their residence in the front and the vacation rental in the back. The rest is history. He went on to say that the place is reputed to be haunted. It didn’t feel haunted to me but I’m no expert.
We have had a very restful, interesting and enjoyable weekend in a unique part of the world and would thoroughly recommend it to anybody.
It was time to head home before the afternoon exodus back to the Bay Area begins with just one stop along the way at Mel’s Mocha and Ice Cream. We just could not come all this way and not have one of their not to be missed extra thick vanilla malts. Absolutely scrummy.
November 08 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
Drawbridge across the Sacramento River In Freeport
After breakfast at Alma’s River Cafe, we drove to Sacramento. The fog had lifted slightly. At least we could see to the other side of the river. It looks like the sun will win through and we will have a nice day.
We took Highway 160 all the way into Sacramento and the road ran alongside the river for most of the journey. It was a very scenic drive along the levee with water on one side and pear orchards and vineyards on the other. At one point we passed a large heard of goats and they were all pressed up against the fence.
At Courtland, Tom pulled off the road. He had seen the courthouse and wanted to take another look. It seemed a huge building for such a small place. Tom thought it might have originally been a Carnegie library but it’s looking pretty neglected now. I checked online when I got home and could find only minimal information about Courtland and none at all about the courthouse. We drove a little further into Courtland but there was no main street and only a few houses. We also stopped at Freeport. Tom wanted to investigate the abandoned railroad track but there was not too much to see at all apart from a bridge over the old tracks.
Soon after Freeport we left the river. Just after driving under I5 there was a huge water tower – or at least we took it to be one but it looked more like a flying saucer on legs – which had a ‘Welcome to Sacremento City of Trees’ emblazoned upon it. Soon after that the road was lined with huge trees with their leaves beginning to change color and fall. It was a pretty sight.
Our destination was ‘Old Sac’, which is in the historic downtown of the city. We were looking for First Street and the History Museum. There is an hour long walking tour which leaves
Old Wells Fargo Stagecoach. Must have been a bumpy, dusty ride.
the museum at 11 am if only we could find First Street. We entered Old Sac on a cobbled road. The buildings were all gold rush era and very quaint. We parked on Front Street at a parking meter. The charges were a bit steep at 25c for 12 minutes and the limit was two hours. I put in $2.50 for two hours of parking and we set off to find First Street. We walked up one block and found ourselves on Second Street, so where on earth was First Street? Fortunately I spotted the Visitors Center so we popped in in there to ask. While I was waiting to speak to the assistant, I got into conversation with another lady. She was here for a week from Kentucky and staying in a Elder Hostel and was looking for things to do in Sacramento. I told her about the walking tour and she was interested. Maybe we will meet up again later. The assistant answered my query – Front Street is First Street! He gave me a map of Old Sacramento and marked where the History Museum was.
We had half an hour to spare so took the opportunity to look round the Wells Fargo exhibition in the Visitors Center. One exhibit was an original stage coach. I tried to imagine what it would be like to travel across country in one. Not only did the seats look uncomfortable and cramped and there were no springs, but I wondered what ladies did when they wanted to go to the bathroom. The clothes they wore, apart from being extremely tight and cumbersome, would have made the procedure difficult. Part of the exhibition was on the Pony Express. We learnt that the riders worked 72 hour shifts, only stopping to change horses every 12 miles and the company preferred to hire orphans. More surprising though was that the whole operation only ran for 18 months before the telegraph put them out of business.
On our way to the History Museum we stopped off to buy some salt water taffy and a bottle of water. Tom found some wax lips. I thought they were candy but Tom explained they were just for fun but I couldn’t see the purpose of them at all. Guess you have to be a kid.
At the History Museum I went inside to inquire about the walking tour and to pay. I was told the tickets were $7 each but no money would be taken yet as the guide had not turned up. This news did not go down too well with us. Afterall we were likely to run out of money on the parking meter before the tour ended if it didn’t leave more or less on time. We decided to wait a little longer just in case the guide did turn up. We sat outside in the shade and met up with the lady I had spoken to in the Visitors Center. We seemed to be the only three waiting. After waiting ten minutes we decided to abandon the idea.
We went instead to the Railroad Museum which was almost next door. The entrance fee was $9 each with no discounts for seniors. Now trains do not particularly appeal to me but the exhibits here were well displayed and it was possible to go inside a lot of them. The first I ventured inside was the 4294 which was enormous, positively a behemoth. The cab was ahead of the engine and was specifically designed that way so that fumes from the smokestack did not asphyxiate the driver or the fireman when traveling through the many tunnels in mountainous areas.
Margaret getting a lesson in mail sorting at the Sacramento Railroad Museum
The next and most interesting to me was the Great Northern Railway Post Office Car No. 42. This particular train traveled the Chicago to Seattle route. A docent took a lot of time to explain everything to me, pointing out the pigeon holes and describing how the whole operation worked. There would have been twelve people working to sort the mail, doing a range of duties. It was high paid work but it needed to be because it involved being very fast and efficient plus remembering every stop along their section. The trickiest job is being the mail catcher because he had to throw the mail bags out at many places along the line, sometimes in the coldest of weather, while, at the same time, catching the mail with an ingenious contraption. All the while the train is traveling at least 50 miles an hour. It must have been extremely hard work.
I wondered around the rest of the museum looking at various information boards scattered around and peered into the windows of the luxurious Clegg carriage. Talk about how the other half lived. There was an plush sitting room, complete with a fireplace; an office; a dining room; a kitchen and, right at the end, the servants quarters. The latter were extremely cramped and the toilet was open and exposed.
I looked at my watch and saw that the parking meter would run out in ten minutes. I left Tom still absorbed in the exhibits to return to the car and feed the meter. There was still seven minutes to go before the time expired so I decided to wait it out. There was a convenient seat nearby so took a rest and did a bit of writing. When I glanced up there was a meter maid standing in front of the car and the excess flag was up. Fortunately she had not started to write out the ticket and she said it was OK to feed the meter. I had the quarters ready in my hand but as I feed them into the meter, I dropped one and it rolled away and then disappeared through a crack in the boardwalk. Both the meter maid and I laughed at the absurdity of it.
The meter maid struck up a conversation with me to say she liked my accent and asked where I came from. When I told I came from England she asked which part. She had never heard of Guildford but she went on to tell me of where her ancestors came from. It is always fascinating having these conversations.
Not fifteen minutes later I was back in the Railroad Museum and chatting with another person about where I came from. Tom and I had gone upstairs to look at the model railways. While Tom wandered around and relived his childhood, I sat on a bench in front of the moving display. This time it was a docent who sat down beside me and asked if I was doing my homework. At my age, he must have been joking. I happened to be once again writing in my journal. He told me his wife came from Scotland and neither of them had visited there since 1965. I told him it was about time he went back again.
When we walked back outside the museum the heat hit us. We decided to take a walk round and look at a few of the shops but we were very disappointed. The outside of the shops were authentic and it was fun to walk on the covered boardwalk but most of the shops were just tourist traps selling T-shirts, forgettable souvenirs, body piercings and fast food restaurants. Several people tried to thrust adverts into our hands as we passed. Beside all of this, the place was getting crowded. It was time to move on.
Back in the car we then had to find our way to Highway 160. Tom’s keen sense of direction soon had us heading the right way. We passed the State Capital
Some very big equipment at the Sacramento Train Museum
on our left. Just past there we saw a large gathering of people in a small park. There were flag carriers and I saw somebody in uniform holding a big drum. Then we noticed a lot of people in uniform, mostly policemen. Along the sides of the road were parked hordes of police and fire department cars and trucks. Later on we drove through a very nice area with huge shade trees. In front of most of the houses on the roadway were huge mounds of leaves. One of the drawbacks of having these trees outside your house at this time of year but adequate payment I’m sure for the beauty of the trees themselves.
We were back in Locke by 2.30 and had a quick snack. We stopped to buy rolls on the way home and made sandwiches with the steak left over from last night. Then we took another walk around Locke. Today it is much busier than yesterday. As it is the weekend most of the shops were open. There are no high end shops like Carmel. Locke does not pretend to be something it is not. Most shops are very rickety with dark interiors. The busiest place was the bar called Al’s Place or ‘Al the Wops’. Outside were a good dozen flashy Harley Davidson motorcycles. Some of them were really smart. Tom pointed one out where the passenger seat not only had a padded back and armrests but also speakers on each side of the seat. Positively comfortable I’m sure.
In the evening we drove into Isleton in search of somewhere to eat dinner. Isleton is larger than Walnut Grove or Locke and more seemed to be going on. There were even a couple of casinos.
We found a Mexican restaurant and a Chinese restaurant but picked Isleton Joe’s because they serve crawdads. Apparently you must have crawdads if you go to Isleton. Crawdads, by the way, are called crayfish in England and are very small fresh water lobster. As I didn’t know whether I would like them, I did not want to order them on their own but chose to have them with pasta and alfredo sauce. Tom had the crawdads with pasta and pesto sauce. To begin with there was a choice of soup or salad Tom chose the salad and I went for the split pea soup. When I came to sample the soup though it was very salty so only had a couple of mouthfuls. Our server was excellent and changed it for the clam chowder, which was much better. The pasta and crawdads was very good but there was so much of it. We both had as much as we could eat but hadn’t made much of a dent in the amount on our plates.
Then it was home for another early night. Next door appeared to be having a party as there was loud music playing but we could hardly hear it inside the cottage and it did not stop us getting another good night’s sleep.
November 03 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
