Archive for the 'Further Afield' Category
Beautiful Dale Farm House in Dibden. Charming B&B with the most wonderful breakfasts.
We hadn’t planned a trip to England at all, but my mother was taken ill at the beginning of April and I went across to be with her. Unfortunately my mum died a week later but I was able to spend a lot of time with her beforehand. Tom flew over later to be with me and we had a few days break before the funeral. After picking Tom up from Heathrow Airport, we took the scenic trip back to Taunton in the south west by driving through the New Forest.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
This is an area of approximately 145 square miles which I have been to many times but Tom had only skirted the perimeter. From the M27 we took the Cadnam road to Lyndhurst. Now I’m sure Lyndhurst is a lovely place but it took an awful long time to drive through it. Every road leading to it had a back up of traffic and it is like this every single time I have driven through it. It is a town which desperately needs a bypass. It took us long enough in April, but during the summer months it is even more of a nightmare.
Once through Lyndhurst, the journey became enjoyable and we could take pleasure in the countryside. In 1079 William The Conqueror named the area his ‘Nova Foresta’ or new hunting forest. Now, nearly 1000 years later, most of the forest has disappeared, mainly due to the navy taking the the timber to build their ships in the late Middle Ages. Today the area is a mix of woodland and heathland. The locals, or Commoners, are allowed to graze horses and cattle in the New Forest and these animals roam freely. The animals are prevented from straying too far by cattle grids. As you drive through the forest, you will see many ponies and they have the right of way. The speed limited is 40 mph on unfenced roads and it is necessary. We rounded a bend and came up behind two cows, which ambled along the road in front of us for about 200 yards before deciding to head towards a pond.
Our first stop though was in Lymington. This is a small town not far from the coast. We needed to book some accommodation and we have always found that the Tourist Information Office is the best place to do this. We parked the car near the center of the town and walked to the main shopping street. As we didn’t know exactly where the Tourist Office was, we stopped for a cup of coffee at an independent coffee shop and asked for directions. At the Tourist Office, a very helpful lady gave us a brochure to browse through. We prefer farmhouse bed and breakfast to hotels and there were several to choose from. As we were next visiting Beaulieu, we picked a place nearby. The lady telephoned and we were fixed up, leaving with a map of where the accommodation was and a phone number.
On to Beaulieu where the world famous Motor Museum is situated. Beaulieu is a very nice little village where some of the houses – those with
Motor Museum at Beaulieu
red painted front doors – are owned by the Beaulieu Estate. Beaulieu Estate, which comprises not only the National Motor Museum but Beaulieu Abbey and Beaulieu Palace House, has been owned by the Montagu family since the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth century. Our intention was to visit all three buildings but ended up spending all our time in the Motor Museum. What a fascinating place. Lots of vintage, classic cars and racing cars plus land speed record holders. There are over 250 exhibits. I particularly liked the one of a kind cars like Del Boys (Only Fools and Horses) three wheeler and Mr. Bean’s mini.
We left Beaulieu to drive towards Hythe, which is on the Southampton Water, and set out to find where we were booked for the night -Dale Farm House in Dibden. We had the instructions on how to get there but somehow got lost and ended up going up and down the same stretch of road and around the several roundabouts before we pulled off the road and rang the our host. Fortunately we weren’t too far away, we just hadn’t negotiated the right roundabout. Soon we were bumping down a unmade up road until we found Dale Farm. The setting was perfect.
We were greeted warmly by Christine Archdeacon, given a key to our room – which was at the top of the stairs (mind your head!). What a lovely room with an compact but impressive ensuite bathroom. The view from the window was outstanding. After lugging our suitcases upstairs and washing our hands we took a walk round the garden, meet the ducks, watched a couple of pheasants and admired the surroundings.
Time to get something to eat. Christine recommended some good restaurants nearby and we chose the nearest one which was the Pilgrim Inn at Marchwood. Right next door is a restaurant but it wasn’t open. Both buildings are under the same ownership and have recently been refurbished with brand new thatched roofs. Inside the pub there was another warm welcome. We could pick our own table and browsed through the mouthwatering menu. Our server was very friendly and we had a long conversation with her about photography. We both chose something from the specials on the blackboard – Tom had calves liver – now this was a bold step for him as he hasn’t liver since he was a child and he didn’t like it then – and my choice was a chicken dish. Before the meal Tom enjoyed his first pint of British beer this trip while I had a St Clements. The food was fantastic.
After a very comfortable night’s sleep, we were ready for our farmhouse breakfast at Dale Farm. Our host, Peter – complete with chefs jacket and harlequin trouers – greeted us as we walked into the restaurant and we had a simply wonderful breakfast. We filled up with cereal, a very colorful fresh fruit salad, yoghurt, fruit juice, the tastiest English cooked breakfast with local produce I’ve ever had, toast, home made marmalade and all washed down with several cups of tea. Peter spent a long time in conversation with us as until the other guests arrived and soon the room became full. Peter and Christine have spent several holidays in California and we told them to look us up if they come again. If you ever check this website out Peter and Christine, we looking forward to meeting up with you again.
May 11 2009 | Further Afield | 1 Comment »
This is our last full day in Hawaii and we decided to take another easy day. We decided to go snorkeling one last time. Tom tried to persuade me to hire some snorkeling equipment, especially some sort of flotation device, while we were in Kailua-Kona last night. I would dearly love to do it but I’m too scared. As I’ve said before, I am frightened of water and I know I would panic if I had to be in any water where the bottom was a long way away.
(Click the images for a larger version)
But first of all we had breakfast. Our treat today was banana stuffed French toast. After breakfast we were given a short tour of the coffee farm. John showed us the old coffee barn. It is a tall, wooden building which has been converted into a bedroom. It’s one room contains a rustic queen bed with a mosquito net, a sofa and closet with a toilet. The shower is outside. It is really quite romantic and isolated and with a view of banana trees and an unobstructed view of the night sky. In our room we have no view of the sky at all as we are surrounded by tropical vegetation. The barn was originally used to dry the coffee beans.
John then showed us the coffee plants. The coffee beans are bright red and look like cherries. The skin is easy to peel back. Inside there is a soft pulp surrounding the white coffee bean. It achieves its dark brown color after roasting. Johnsie joined us and she pointed out pineapples, mangoes, starfruit, bananas and many more. If there was more time, we would have loved to explore thoroughly but being conscious that they had work to do we left them to it.
At Honaunau Bay the tide was much higher and a lot of the places on the rocks were taken. Also, to get to them, we had to wade through water. The regulars had already gathered and we sat within earshot of them. It was fascinating to here bits of their conversations. One guy, who had just returned from snorkeling, was relating his tale of spotting an eagle ray nose out an octopus from the coral and eat it.
Tom went in a couple of times and really enjoyed it. He saw lots of brightly colored fish but no turtles or dolphins. When the sun became unbearable we left the rocks and walked the short distance to Keoneele Cove with its sandy beach. It is a very small beach but plenty of room for us and there was just a mother and her small boy there, though later her husband arrived by kayak. I did venture into the sea but did no snorkeling. It was nice to sit in the warm water for a while. We sat there and ate a very meager lunch of the cheese sticks and biscuits left over from the day before yesterday and the banana cake from the beginning of the week.
We spent a good few hours there though just enjoying our last visit here this trip. I wonder whether we will ever make it back here. I hope so.
After a quick shower to wash off the sun block and to get the sand out of from between our toes, we drove
into Kailua-Kona. We took our last walk down Alii Drive and back along the promenade towards the pier. Today there is another cruise ship out in the bay and the passengers were waiting for the boats to take them back to their ship. Nearby is the place where the Ironman Triathlon race will start next week.
Time for something to eat. Tonight we decided to try out the Kona Brewing Company but it was difficult to find without a map. We did spot it but walking to it was a different matter. After wandering round a small strip mall looking for a place to get through, we eventually found a gap and made our way round to the entrance. It was crowded, even though it was only 4 in the afternoon. We did consider sitting outside because the weather was so pleasant but we were put off by the smokers so decided on a table inside. Tom tried out the beer and ordered a pizza. I stayed with the iced tea and, as I wasn’t all that hungry, ordered a pupu, or more commonly known as a starter, for my meal of tomato, mozzarella and basil.
It was time to go back to the farm and start our packing. Our flight is tomorrow lunchtime. We have had a really great time here and I love it. We can highly recommend the Pomaika’i (Lucky) Farm B&B, with Johnsie’s fabulous breakfasts, as a place to stay. Our only negetive commet on the Big Island is that the rest of the food here is not that great. The restaurants have been interesting places to go to but the food has not been outstanding at all. Surely there are some nice restaurants.
November 09 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
There were new people at the breakfast table today. They were a young couple from San Francisco. Most people seem to come to stay here for a couple of days, either stopping a few days at other places on the Big Island or island hopping.
Our hot item at breakfast today was Sausage Bake. I must say Johnsie is a good cook. Everything she has given us has been first class.
Today we are off to Waipi’o Valley on the other side of the island, north of Hilo. We set off at 8.30 on a beautiful bright and sunny day, driving north on Highway 11. Just north of Honalo, we took Highway 180 which is a scenic uphill drive along a windy road up above Kailua-Kona. To the north east of Kailua-Kona we joined Highway 190 and continued in a north easterly direction towards Waimea.
Soon after joining 190, we take a small detour to the right up Kaloko Road. This is a seven mile steep climb round horseshoe bends up to 5,000. Near the top we were driving through a cloud forest. In the afternoon it has always been cloudy up here but now it is clear. We were expecting jungle like landscape but it isn’t. More like woodland with no tropical plants at all. There was a view down over Kailua-Kona and the airport but not worth being photographed. We did see wild turkeys on the road and, I think wild chickens. Tom thought they were too big to be chickens and they might have been peahens as our guidebook mentions that renegade peacocks roam a nearby golf course.
We took Highway 190 all the way to Waimea where we turned right onto Highway 19. The most impressive signs on the way were the 1801 and 1800 lava flows from Hualalai and the 1859 lava flow from Mauna Loa. It is amazing the affect they have on the landscape. Also along this road is one end of the Saddle Road. We would have loved to drive this highway to Hilo but our rental contract with Hertz does not allow it.
Waimea is a cattle town. The famous Parker Ranch is situated nearby. Just a few miles east of Waimea we took another detour along the Old Mamalahoa Highway. According to the guidebook it was a more interesting route and we agree. Lots of green pastures on either side and rolling hills. There are caves along the way but we saw no sign of them at all. We joined Highway 19 again just before turning left onto Highway 240 for the last leg of our journey.
Once again according to our guidebook, Waipi’o Valley is the place to go to but we never went down onto the valley floor. We did go to the lookout and the view was spectacular. From high on the cliff you look down to a black sand beach and the waves lapping the shore. The valley itself extends some way inland but from the lookout you can only see a small part of it. On the far side are steep cliffs and in the rainy season waterfalls will be cascading down the sides. We saw no waterfalls today. There is a trail up the side of the far cliff into the next valley which looks to be extremely steep.
Only four wheel drive vehicles are allowed to drive down the mile long road which drops 900 feet into the valley. There is a four wheel shuttle down and a choice of a wagon tour or on horseback when you reach the floor of the valley or, of course, we could walk down. Walking down would have been alright I guess but getting back up again would have been a real chore. The guidebook told us the cost of the shuttle would be about $50 each, the wagon tour $55 each and the horseback ride $89 each. We inquired at the information kiosk where we could book these tours and were told to drive back a mile to the town of Kukuihaela where we would find more information at Artworks.
We found Artworks easily enough, in fact it was the only shop as such in the place. A tour had just finished and I spoke to a couple of people who were returning to their car. They had thoroughly enjoyed the trip but it cost $159 each. That was way out of our price range so we decided to give it a miss. We might have been tempted if the waterfalls were in full spate. We did buy a sandwich and a drink at Artworks though and sat outside on the veranda to eat our lunch.
From Kukuihaele we drove back to Honoka’a where we stopped and had a walk around. There was not a lot going on in the town. We wandered down both sides, looking in shop windows but a lot of the shops were not open. Maybe it is the end of the season or it could be they only open at the weekends. There were quite a few signs up about an audition held today in the town for extras to take part in a film later on this month. They were looking for elderly people which would have suited us fine but the auditions ended at noon. Darn!!
At 2 we decided to head back to our side of the island- This time we stayed on Highway 19 all the way to Kailua-Kona instead of taking the detour along the old highway. We did take one small detour though jJust south of Puako. Our aim was to go to a beach at one of the resorts but it was impossible. We saw lots of resort villages and posh hotels but no access to any beaches at all.
I Kailua-Kona we wandered around and stopped off at a bar for a drink. The place was almost empty but there was a good view over the ocean. We did get into conversation with the only other customer there about the debate today between Sarah Palin and Joe Biden. We caught a bit on the radio in the car but would have preferred to have seen it on television.
For dinner we returned to the Fish Hopper (where we had lunch on our first day). This time we sat in a booth at the back and still had a vood view out to sea. We could see swimmers practicing for the Iron Man Triathlon. As it was very hazy, the sunset was unremarkable today. We chose the three course special and for $14.95 it was very good.
On our way back to the car we bumped into Cindy and Al who had been staying at the farm. They are staying in Kailua-Kon tonight before catching a flight home tomorrow.l
November 01 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
The rain had stopped by the time we woke up. All the leaves were still dripping though.
We are going to take it easy again today but first of all there was breakfast. Today it was Baked Oatmeal. Now you know how much I like oatmeal but this is the first time I have ever had it baked and it was scrumptious. Must ask Johnsie for the recipe.
By 9 a.m. we were at the small cove next to the City of Refuge for another snorkeling expedition. We had stopped at the little market near the farm to buy something for lunch but the choice was extremely limited. There was dried and flaked cuttle fish but we decided not to be too adventurous. In the end we bought string cheese and Wheat Thins plus a couple of cans of drink. We still have some banana bread left over from Monday.
Not many people were at the rocks so we found a reasonably flat piece of lava rock to spread our mat and towels out on. This is considered one of the best snorkeling locations on the island, mainly because it is so accessible and also as it is easy to get into the water. It’s called a two step entry. Finding where the exact spot is can be difficult but Johnsie gave us good directions. Face the porta potties at the top of the beach and line up with the one at the far left. Turn 180 degrees and that is where the entry is. Or you watch where all the the regulars get into the water. If you enter from any other spot you are in danger of stepping onto sea urchins.
Tom didn’t go into the water straight away. We just sat on the rocks enjoying the atmosphere. It was so peaceful. We watched couples and groups of people arrive, stake out their patch of rock and walk down to the waters edge. There were no signs of dolphins or turtles today. A boat arrived around the headland and several of the passengers donned their masked and fins and entered the water.
Tom ventured into the water and paddled off. I read a bit and got acquainted with a small dog called Annie. Her owners had gone snorkeling and she obviously liked human company. As soon as she saw her owners climb out of the water she was off to greet them and I never saw her again.
Al and Cindy, another couple staying at the farm, arrived and sat near us. We chatted for a bit and they both then ventured into the water. When Tom return he said the fish were amazing. He also saw sea urchins but he stayed well clear of them. After a short rest, while I explored a few tide pools, he went for another swim.
It became really hot sitting out there in the sun. Of course I had slathered sun block all over every exposed part of my body and wore my new straw hat – complete with a flower I found on the ground, but still I caught the sun. At least I will be going home with a bit of a tan.
At 12 p.m. we drove the car into the City of Refuge car park and walked to the picnic area, carrying the cool box. It was lovely there. Lots of picnic table and coconut palms giving convenient shade. It was not very busy to begin with but by the time we left there was nobody else around.
After our spartan lunch of Wheat Thins and string cheese we took turns to walk down to the waters edge. Tom brought me back a small piece of coral. That, along with the piece of black lava from the vicinity of the volcano, will join my collection back home.
There were some lovely deep tide pools to investigate. I saw some reasonable sized black crabs scuttling around, some sea slugs and sea anemones. Lots of small fish were darting around in the pools as well. It’s mesmerizing gazing into the pools. Stand still for long enough and all manner of creatures come out of hiding. I also spent a long time just looking out to the ocean and watching the incoming tide.
We drove back to the farm at 2 p.m. for a shower and change of clothes. Then we sat out on our veranda reading and writing. The usual afternoon rain started at about 4 p.m.
At 4.30 we drove into Captain Cook for our evening meal. Tonight we ate at Pepperoni’s, an Italian restaurant next door to and run by the banana bread shop. The special was Baby Back Ribs. We had brochette to start with followed by half a rack each of the ribs. On the side were black beans, coleslaw and garlic bread. We would have liked a glass of wine to go with it but at the moment they didn’t have a liquor license. The person whose name was on the license had died and they had to reapply. We could have brought our own but as we didn’t know in advance we had to go without. Ice tea was our substitute. The ribs were quite good and there certainly were a lot of them.
It had just about stopped raining when we came out of the restarunat and we were back at the farm by 6.30.
October 26 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
This morning a different rooster woke us at a far more civilized time. I wonder what happened to our own rooster?
For breakfast today we had Potato Frittata. There has been a turn round of guests so there were six new people at breakfast.
Today we have to get the car business sorted out. First of all Tom called our insurance company and was on the phone for at least half an hour. After breakfast we made our way to the airport. We did make one stop on the way though at Kainaliu. We have driven through here several times and there was one sign that really intrigued us. It said ‘Donkey Balls’. I consulted our trusty guidebook to discover that they were chocolate covered Macadamia nuts. A good idea, I thought, to buy some and take back to work with me.
Well Donkey Balls are really big. They have 25 layers of chocolate and they come in a variety of flavors. There are Flaky Balls (coconut), Half Ass Balls (dark and milk chocolate), Balls of Fire (cayenne pepper) and Dirty Balls (coated with cocoa) to name but a few. We tried a few samples and they were good. A bit expensive to buy enough for everyone at work to have one each but they can be cut into fours. While we were there, Tom visited the restroom and said it was certainly different.
Note from Tom: The bathroom walls were covered with drawings of donkeys and cute, funny and/or gross references to the product they sell. I’m sure you can think of several little ditties that are appropriate. I didn’t have to “use” the bathroom, I just wanted to see the walls. In fact while I was there a woman walked in to admire the walls too. We both just stood there taking it all in.
On to the airport. What a way to spend part of your vacation. It’s amazing the amount of hassle we have had so far but there’s bound to be much more and we are the innocent party!! After filling out a claim form and picking up a new car, we were on our way but it was already 11.30. One more chore to do before we can forget about the incident for this week and that is to fax a copy of our old rental agreement to the insurance company. Just have to find a Kinkos or similar for that or I guess we can ask at the farm.
Leaving the airport we turned left onto Highway 19. The scenery here is so different from the lush jungele scene of the South Kona coast. Here it is rough lava and scrub grass. All along the side of the road are messages spelt out with white rocks on the dark lava. Modern graffiti if you like but at least it doesn’t leave a permanent mark or disfigure the surroundings. It also does not need to be removed or painted over.
Along the coast there are a lot of good beaches and resorts but we want to do something different today. We stayed on Highway 19 as it took a sharp turn inland. In the distance we could see cars upon the mountain road – that’s where we are headed. At Waimea we turned left onto Highway 250 and headed uphill. There are two towns named Waimea on this road (very confusing). The other is closer to Hilo and is sometimes called Kamuela. Once again the scenery is changing. Below we can see the flat lava beds and can even see the route the lava took from the Mauna Loa volcano to the ocean. Up here there is green grass to our right. We are still on the leeward side of the island which is dryer than the eastern side. In fact, looking at the map, we can see that on the other side of the mountain are lots of rivers.
According to the guidebook, there is a good view across to Maui when the road starts to ascend but not today. We see a huge cloud cover in the distance and guess that Maui is underneath it.
At the junction of Highways 250 and 270 stands Hawi (pronounced Ha-vi), the most northerly town on the Big Island. Originally it was a sugar town but when that business closed down the town refused to die. It is now the haunt of many artists. We parked and walked around It is a really nice little town with interesting shops, restaurants and galleries.
As we were hungry, we stepped in for lunch at the Bamboo Restaurant. What a funky place and a great find. It was lunchtime and the place was bustling and lively. The service was superb. We had passion fruit ice tea and both of us loved it. To eat we had pulled BBQ pork sandwiches served with waffle fries and coleslaw with bits of pineapple inside. The sandwich was sloppy to eat so the server brought extra napkins. Man, it was good.
A trip to the restroom was interesting. There were lace curtains at the window and a live orchid in a plant pot. On the wall were several Hawaiian pictures plus a brightly painted wooden fish and a bamboo mirror. The floor was wooden planks and the sink was old fashioned. It only had one tap and no hot water. I could hear the noise from the kitchen outside – music, talking, singing and chatting. What amused me the most was the sign above the toilet:
Please put down the seat so we can all enjoy the fun toilet seat!!! Mahalo!
And it was a fun toilet seat with a brightly painted picture on it.
After lunch we walked around a bit and drank in the charm of the place. One place particularly fascinated us and that was L Zeidman Gallery. An array of Hawaiian wood bowls of all shapes and sizes made from all manner of local woods. The artist was originally from the Bay Area. Last year on our road trip we bought a Maynard Dixon print. This year we decided to buy a bowl. We picked a smallish China Berry bowl with a natural edge. Getting it home was a problem as we haven’t much space in our suitcase. The young girl in the gallery was marvelous and told us there was free shipping. She said they would also enclose some special beeswax polish so we could keep it looking good. As we were leaving she gave us a small box of handmade Hawaiian chocolate made by the Kailua Candy Co. They didn’t last too long I can assure you. Delicious.
To round off our wonderful experience in Hawi, we bought two single cake cone Tropical Dreams ice creams from the Kona Coffee Mill just across the road from the Bamboo Restaurant and sat outside to eat them.
Then we drove east to the end of Highway 270 through Kapa’au – a town very much like Hawi but not so
busy. The road deadends at the Pololu Valley Lookout. From there is a marvelous view looking south east in the direction of Waipi’o Valley though we could not see it. There is a muddy trail to the Pololu Beach. It takes 15-20 minutes to walk to the bottom but, as it is very steep, I’m sure it takes much longer to walk up. We did go down a little way but only to take some photos.
To drive back to the farm we returned through Hawi and stayed on Highway 270 all the way round the coast to Kawaihae. When Tom was last here they were filming ‘Waterworld’ and offshore was the floating atoll. There is no sign of it now and, in fact, there is nothing much to be seen here at all.
We did make one more stop and that was in Kailua-Kona. Our purpose was to find somewhere to send a fax. At first we drove around a bit but that was frustrating due to the rush hour traffic so we found a shopping mall and parked the car. We asked around and somebody told us to go to UPS. Fortunately there was one within walking distance. Mission accomplished. As we left Kailua-Kona and turned onto Highway 11, we saw a group of four black wild piglets at the side of the road. Was tempted to stop and load one into the trunk but resisted because we didn’t want to leave a mess in the rental car.
It started to rain as we neared the farm and by the time we reached our room it was a downpour. The heavy rain continued for the next couple of hours so we decided to call it a day and fell asleep to the rain hitting the tin roof.
October 19 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
The rooster had the grace to wait until 5 this morning before he started his calling. It sounds as if he is saying, ‘This is myyyyyyyy yard’.
We met the third couple who are staying her at the moment. Their names are Bert and Sumi and they are from New York, so there are eight for breakfast. Today’s hot item was called Praline Macadamia French Toast, It was bread soaked in milk and eggs, spiced with nutmeg and cinnamon and covered in brown sugar and Mac nuts. Scrummy,
Our first task today is to buy a hat for Tom. Yesterday the top of his head got burnt. As John said at the breakfast table – ‘Your scalp is blushing’. We drove into Kailua Kona. Johnsie said Longs Drugstore was the best place for Hawaiian gear so we tried there first. We were very disappointed with the choice there and were told that they have cut back on that clothes because, I guess, the season is coming to an end. Fortunately there was a Hilo Hatty nearby so we trotted of to find it. Lots of choice there of course and we ended up buying more than just a hat for tom. I also bought a hat and T-shirt. We also bought a pair of rubber sandals each and also outfits for Tom’s grandson Brady and my granddaughter Lissie.
We drove south again through the town center of Kailua Kona along Alii Drive, past lots of good restaurants. I thought we could go all the way back to Captain cook on the cost road but near the Kona Country Club Golf Course it became a private road. We turned around and found our way back to Highway 11, stopping at a lookout for a scenic view of the cost. We noticed this strange green fruit on a tree. One of the fruits with the skin peeled off had been laid out on a leaf. It looked like white jelly and had big seeds in the middle and smelt awful. I later found out that it was a Noni or affectionately called cheese or vomit fruit. Apparently the plant matures in 18 months and yields 4-8 kg of fruit a month throughout the year. It can be eaten even though it smells awful and tastes bitter. Another name for it is starvation fruit. It’s uses though are mainly medicinal, helping with a whole range of complaints from eye, skin, gum and throat problems to relieving psoriasis.
On the way back to the farm we stopped at the Captain Cook Bakery Co because we heard they do fantastic banana bread. We bought some sandwiches and drinks plus, of course, banana bread. We bought half of a straight banana bread and half of a macadamia and banana bread. Back at the farm we picked up a cool box and frozen water bottles, towels, fins and a snorkel mask before heading out again.
This time we turned south. After a couple of miles we turned right on Highway 160 to Puʻuhonua O 
Hōnaunau National Historical Park, formerly known as the City of Refuge. Tom had visited here before but it was my first visit. There was a $5 entrance fee to the park but with the ticket we can come again and again as it lasts for a week. The City of Refuge is so called because in ancient times if a someone had been sentenced to death he could attempt to make the long and difficult journey to this place to seek asylum. He would then have to perform certain rituals, be absolved by the priest and he could make his way home again fully absolved of any sins.
The City of Refuge was a very sacred place and it still is to this day. There is an ambiance about the place which makes it very special. It felt very serene, with palm trees gently swaying in the breeze. We followed the map we were given at the entrance on the self guided tour around the park. There are two distinct areas – the royal palace and the commoners section – separated by a big wall. The park has been restored to show what it would have been like in ancient times. There are houses, canoes, storage areas, stone carvings and fish ponds faithfully reconstructed. A small bay had been roped off to protect the green turtles which pull themselves onto the beach to bask. Two were enjoying the sunshine while we were there. Where the lava beds meet the ocean there were lots of tide pools and for some time we hopped from rock to rock and discovered small blue crabs and various sizes and shapes of fish.
After our tour we collected the cool box, towels, snorkel and fins from the car and took a short, five minute, walk to the adjoining beech, which is completely separate from the park. While we were at the park we saw a lot of snorkelers out in the bay but when we arrived there were very few in the water. Somebody who was leaving told us that the current had changed and it was now dangerous to snorkel off the rocks.
We found a place to sit on a small sandy beach and Tom set off to do some snorkeling in the sheltered bay. I sat and watched him and also kept an eye on what was going on around me. There were a few snorkelers out with Tom. It wasn’t very deep and Tom never went out of his depth. Maybe I could manage to do that. I don’t like going out of my depth as I’m quite frightened of water. I did go snorkeling on Maui but I wore a flotation belt so felt safe. Here we have just have the equipment borrowed from the farm.
The tide was slowly coming in an eventually we will have to move. I noticed a small hole in front of me. Suddenly a tiny, sand colored crab popped up out of the hole and stood on the edge watching me. It sidled off to the side but the incoming water made it dash back into its hole.
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October 17 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
We were woken at 1 a.m. by the sound of heavy rain falling on the tin roof. It felt really cozy being inside listening to the rain outside. Then again at 2.30 a.m. we were roused by the sound of a rooster calling and he was right outside our window! Several times during the night he announced his presence but we accepted it as part of the charm of the place. The worst disturbance was the road, especially after 6 a.m., as the occasional car or motor cycle traveling at, what seemed like, 90 miles an hour screamed by.
(Click on the images for a larger version)
Tom got up at 6.15 a.m. and wandered down the farm to take photos. At 7.30 a.m. we presented ourselves for breakfast. Our neighbors Berchart and Karina from Frankfurt in Germany joined us. Johnsie and her father also sat down with us as well. In the center of the table was a fruit plate with slices of banana, halved passion fruit and quartered papaya – all fresh from the farm. We were served Egg and Cheese Strata, which was delicious. We also had toasted English muffins and a whole array of jams and preserves, most of them made by Johnsie with fruits from the farm. Tom had lychee jam, which was white, and I had jaboticaba preserve. Jaboticaba is a strange fruit as it looks like grapes and it grows on the trunk of the tree. The taste was yummy.
The coffee, of course, was Kona and grown on the farm. They don’t farm commercially as they only have four acres but in reality it is more, due to the steep hillside. During breakfast Johnsie and her Dad explained that they hire a team of people to pick the coffee – the harvest starts soon – and a local coffee farmer processes it. Johnsie does sell the coffee by the pound for $20, which is very reasonable as it is 100% Kona. Kona coffee is less bitter than other coffee. Tom prefers the darker roasts, which paradoxically contain less caffeine. I don’t really like coffee and have never had Kona coffee but I did enjoy it very much indeed.
Today we have decided to visit the Kilauea Volcano. This may well be the highlight of our trip because it is
an active volcano and recently started emitting toxic sulphur dioxide gases from the Halema’uma’u Crater in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on March 19 this year. For years lava has been flowing underground from the Pu’u O’o Crater to the ocean and we hope to see that as well.
We set out at 8.20 a.m. for the two hour drive to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the Halema’uma’u Crater. The first part of our drive was through the lush South Kona district with elevated views to the ocean. We passed quite a few small, independent, coffee farms. Soon though the scenery changed and were driving on the slopes of Mauna Loa and across lava flows. On the map I noticed an unusual hatched area, just after Highway 11 turns east, so I consulted our recently bought guidebook – ‘Big Island Revealed’ by Andrew Doughty to find out if an explanation was given. And indeed it was. It seems it was a failed enterprise to sell plots of land. The hatched area is actually the roads that were built. Not too many of the plots were sold because there were no supporting services like schools and shops. A few houses have been built though.
Just past that area is a lookout where we stopped. The landscape is just lava beds with very little vegetation but there is a good view of the ocean. There was a local selling homemade jewelry and small carvings. I bought a few as gifts. I know it is tacky but that’s what you do on vacation don’t you?
Johnsie told us of a good place to stop en route to the volcano and that was the black sand beach of Punalulu. We took a short diversion off the highway to Punalulu and were rewarded not only with the black sand on the beach but with the sight of green turtles so close to land. I clambered over rocks to get a closer look and stood taking photos for ages. When I turned to make my way back to the beach I discovered that the tide had risen whilst I had been there and was standing in two inches of water.
Johnsie also told us of the ’southernmost bakery in the US’ which was worth a visit. I thought she said is 
was in Punalulu but we could not find it. We found out afterward that the bakery was actually in Na’olehu.
Almost exactly two hours after leaving the farm we arrived at the Hawaii Volcano National Park. The entrance fee is normally $10 but today there is no charge in honor of new citizens. Very appropriate for me as I became a citizen last month.
We went straight to the Visitors Center where we wandered around for half an hour. I was fascinated to read about the Nene geese, which is the state bird of Hawaii. They used to be prolific but have now almost died out. There is a campaign to increase their numbers. I did notice road signs depicting a goose inside the park. The geese are rarely seen now. Tom did see them when he was here last.
We set off from the Visitors Center to Volcano House. This is not only a hotel but also a restaurant which overlooks the Halema’uma’u Crater. We walked through the building and out the other side for our first look at an active volcano. In front of us was a huge, lava covered, flat crater with trails cris-crossing the whole area. In the middle is a round hole with a huge plume of smoke coming out on one side. This is the where the noxious gases are venting. Around the rim of the crater is a trail and just on the other side a road which goes all around the crater. Both are accessible for some of the way but due to the eruption and continued release of gases they have been partially closed.
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October 12 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
Today we are off on a week’s vacation to the Big Island of Hawaii. Last night we stayed at the Good Nite Inn just north of San Francisco Airport. We have found that it is cheaper to stay one night in a hotel and leave the car parked there while we are away than to park in the long term car park. Besides, we get to start our vacation a day earlier.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Our flight is at 9.04 so we are up early and catch the 6.30 shuttle to the airport. The bus was full. Lots of people are off on vacation.
Everything goes smoothly at the airport. We checked in last night so all we had to do was to check in our bag. Even that was almost painless. The bigger hassle is always getting through security but even that was not too bad today.
Our flight took off on time – how often does that happen? For most of the journey we were above the clouds (or was it fog?) and could not see the ocean below us at all. Just as we approached the Big Island, the sky clears and we can not only see water but also land and two of the volcanoes. Coming into land At Kona was interesting. As we descended, we came closer and closer to the ocean and then over lava beds. Just as I thought we were going to land on the lava, I saw the edge of the runway and breathed a sigh of relief.
Kona Airport was charming. No sky ramps to exit the plane but the good old fashioned steps pushed up to the airplane and a walk across the tarmac. The hot, balmy air hit us. We entered the departure area but this was the most unusual one I’ve seen as there are no walls, just a roof to give some shade. Once through the departure lounge we came to a large open air square with a bas relief statue of lei makers and shops all around.
Tom was last here a good few years ago and he said that nothing much as changed. One big difference though was the luggage carousel. Back then the luggage was spread out on the ground.
Next stop, the hire car. This time we chose Hertz because we got air miles. Finding the car was a challenge but a friendly Hertz guy helped us out.
By the time we had driven five miles we were completely unimpressed with our rental car – a Chevy Malibu. To say it was clunky is an understatement and it had no acceleration at all. I guess we will just have to get used to it.
We stopped in the town of Kailua Kona to take a wander round and to grab a bite to eat. We chose the Fish Hopper near the King Kamehameha Hotel on the waterfront and sat at a window seat only there was no glass in the window. The view over Kailua Bay was fantastic. Time to kick back and chill out. Hey guys, we are on vacation.
It was wonderful to sit in the restaurant eating our Hawaiian burgers and drinking our ice tea and watching the world go by. Out on the bay were small boasts, jet skies, swimmers and surf paddlers. Holidaymakers sauntering up and down the promenade. Sparrows were hopping around on the floor and window sills, searching for crumbs. Tom put down a piece of bacon but they were more interested in bread crumbs. They came amazingly close to us to grab the crumbs.
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October 11 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
We got back from a week in Hawaii so it’s been an adjustment getting back in the swing of things. There’s a lot to see and do on the Big Island and we’ll have a show and tell over the next several posts. Stay tuned.
October 08 2008 | Further Afield | No Comments »
Last week was a momentous week for me as I become an American citizen on Thursday.
The journey has taken me nearly seven years. I first arrived in this country on November 5, 2001 clutching my fiance visa. Tom and I married at the end of November and in the following February I was given my first Green Card. It was only for two years and before I received my ten year Green Card, Tom and I had to prove that we were still married and living together.
Last year I decided it was time to become a fully fledged citizen and started the process by filling in the necessary paperwork at the end of July. In December I had my fingerprints and biometrics done and my interview and test were on June 23 this year.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Six weeks after my interview I received the letter giving the date, place and time for the Naturalization Ceremony. It was to be held at the Santa Clara Fairgrounds on Tully Road at 10 am on Thursday, August 14. The letter contained very little information apart from the above and I had many questions – What is the parking like? Can I bring guests? If so, how many? Can I take a camera? I went on line to find out what I could and eventually gleaned some answers. Parking was no problem. Guests could attend and there was no limit but it was first come first served. Cameras were allowed. I also discovered that there were gong to be three ceremonies at the Santa Clara Fairgrounds in August, one on the 7th and two on the 14th; one at 10 a.m. and the second at 1 p.m.
The day after the first ceremony I read a newspaper report that 3,000 people had become American Citizens. The ceremony had been delayed by one and half hours due to traffic chaos on Tully Road. As there were estimated to be another 3,000 at both ceremonies on the 14th, the same was likely to happen again so we made plans to arrive early.
Don and Arlene, Tom’s parents, wanted to attend so they arrived the day before. Thursday dawned and we were up bright eyed and busy tailed and the four of us were the very first to arrive at 6.50 a.m, so no chance of my guests not getting a seat. We were able to walk into the hall because there was nobody else around. It was an enormous space. In the middle, 3,000 white folding chairs all with letters, brochures and a small American flag; 500 brown folding seats at the side for guests; a small stage and large screen at the front. The first officials arrived soon after and said we had to wait outside but I persuaded them to let Don and Arlene stay inside because 3 hours would have a long time for them to stand in line.
Tom had to go to the other side of the building to line up and I was at the front of the line of new citizens.
Soon there was a long line behind me and I could see the traffic getting snarled up on the road outside as more and more people arrived. At 8.15 we were allowed into the hall and we all had to go to our allotted section. I was about half way down in Section 2. I had to hand in my letter and Green Card and was directed to the chair I was to sit in. Somehow Don, Arlene, Tom, plus three of my friends from work, all managed to sit together but not within speaking distance of me.
It was a slow process to get everyone seated. I had a grandstand seat, front row of my section and next to 
the central aisle. One of the envelopes contained my voters’ registration card so I immediately filled it out. The brochures made interesting reading, information about the Declaration of Independence and the writing of the Constitution but I spent most of my time observing what was going on around me. Patriotic songs were playing and videos of scenes from all over America were displayed on the screen. The official in charge of our section made an effort to keep us amused by asking questions about the Constitution and Amendments. Every time somebody gave the right answer they were told their prize was ‘Fame and Glory’.
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August 18 2008 | Further Afield | 2 Comments »
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