January 13, 2010
Saturday Afternoon and Evening
We took a break from visiting artists’ studios by driving into Point Reyes Station. There were four things we wanted to do. The first was to find
Tamales Bay at Point Reyes
an ATM. Buying the bowl wiped us out of cash. Our second errand was to buy some cheese. Point Reyes has many dairy farms and cheese, along with oysters, are what the area is famous for. On Third Street is the Tomales Bay Food Company. It is a small selection of shops selling food from the area. At 1.30 on the Saturday it was packed. There were many cheeses to choose from and I could not decide which one to buy. In the end I chose a small selection from Cowgirl Creamery an a bag consisting of their Original Blue, Matos’ St George, Mt Tam and a goat cheese called California Crottin. The bag also contained bread and butter pickles but I misread it assuming there was bread and butter inside not knowing that there was such a thing as bread and butter pickles. I still have a lot to learn.
Tom and I sat outside on a bench and sampled the Matos’ St George cheese and watched what was going on. There were lots of people sitting on the grass eating their picnics and children were playing. More and more people were arriving to shop. Amongst all this, a young man was balanced on top of a four foot post performing some sort of Kung Fu exercise. For about fifteen minuts he carried on totally engrossed while people walked past, just giving him a casual glance. Hey, this is Marin and that’s what folks do round here. Just another day in Point Reyes Station.
Our next task, and the most important some would say, was to get a drink. Opposite Toby’s Feed Barn, where they hold a farmers market every Saturday, is The Western Saloon and this is where we headed. Outside Osteria Stellina – where we will be eating tonight – there were people waiting for tables but The Western had only a few customers. We took a seat at the bar and ordered a couple of beers. The lady who served us didn’t appear very friendly at first but she warmed up when we asked if she was serving when Prince Charles and Camilla came into the bar four years ago. She certainly was and told us all about it. Tom and I were in Point Reyes Station that day and were standing in the crowd outside the bar. It was a big occasion for us. It is the first time Tom had ever seen any of the Royals and I got to shake hands with both the Prince and his Duchess.
Our last visit was to the Pelican Gallery on the main street. A lot of people were walking round clutching the Point Reyes Open Studios brochure but the Pelican Gallery was not part of it and therefore not very busy. Inside the gallery were lot of large photos printed onto canvas and there were quite a few I would not mind hanging on my wall.
Back on the road again and there were just two more studios to visit today. They first was to Bruce Mitchell, the wood sculpture, who we missed earlier on. His studio was located in Sherwood Road. Bruce specializes in large sculptures and bowls. In the garden outside were a few of his bigger pieces. They are nice but not for us. Where would be put it if we bought one? Also outside he had a large work area with a sawpit. Inside there were more large sculptures and a lot of bowls. I circled the studio studying his bowls and some of them were really nice. There are made out of many different types of wood. It was interesting to observe the different grains in them. I had the urge to pick them up just to run my hands over their surface and to bury my nose inside to smell them, but resisted.
Our very last studio visit was right opposite our B&B so we parked the car and walked across the footbridge over the creek in the middle of Inverness Way. Abbie Durkeee uses mixed media in her paintings. Her studio is also her house so you walk straight into her front room. Several of Abbie’s paintings are displayed on the walls of her sitting room and every one of them told a story. One told the story of her grandmother and displayed a photo of Abbie as a young girl, a loaf of bread, a jar of bread and butter pickles (what a coincidence) and lots of butterfly wings fixed to the bottom third. Abbie collected the wings when she was cycling on the Big Island in Hawaii. Monarch Butterflies migrate to Hawaii and a lot must perish. She said there were millions of wings lying around and in a car they would not have been seen but when you are are riding a bike you see much more. Abbie picked up a discarded Marlborough cigarette box and placed the wings inside. The box protected the wings form being damaged as she continued her ride. Butterfly wings represent family and community to Abbie. Just off the living room is Abbie’s workroom and there was a canvas she was working on and other projects in works. Everything looked highly organized. As we were leaving she us she has a completely different display each day.
Another view of Tamales Bay
Next door to Abbie at 2 Inverness Way we noticed a sign which said ‘Shaker Shops West’ so we went inside to have a look. There were many Shaker items and gadgets like kitchen utensils, coat hooks and children’s toys plus Shaker chairs, tables and a chest. The furniture is well designed, functional and appealing but also very expensive.
Back to the B&B for a spot of relaxation before heading back to Point Reyes Station for dinner. The fresh cookies were out in the sitting room and I picked up a couple as we walked past. They were delicious.
At 5.45 we turned up at Osteria Stellina only to be told our reservation was for 6.30. It was a very busy place with all the tables occupied and people waiting, so we went off to find some amusement before returning at the appointed time. For ten minutes we browsed the books in Point Reyes Books but it closed a 6. There was nothing else to do but to return to the car and listen to the radio for half an hour.
At 6.30 we tried again and only had to wait five minutes before our table was ready. It was not the best table in the house because people were constantly knocking the back of Tom’s chair when they walked past and every time the door opened I got a blast of cold air but these are the only negatives of the whole experience. The chef and owner is Christian Caiazzo. Originally he worked in high profile restaurants in New York and San Francisco but had to give up when he was in a bad car accident. After some painful rehabilitation he moved to Point Reyes Station where he first work at Cowgirl Creamery and then opened a coffee bar before opening Osteria Stellina.
To start with Tom had half a dozen sweetwater oysters. They were served in their half shells on a bed of ice with a cocktail sauce and a lemon flavored dipping sauce. I had roasted brussels sprouts and walnuts. Both were lip smackingly good. For Tom’s main course he had braised goat and I had Osso Buco with mashed potatoes and kohlrabi and broccoli rabe. Tom said the goat was very good. Mine was delicious. To finish Tom had the flourless chocolate desert and I had the cheese selection which consisted of three local cheeses – a soft goats cheese and two from the Cowgirl Creamery (Mt Tam and Red Hawk) served with a membrillo (quince preserve) and bread & butter. It was all washed down with a couple of carafes of house red. We both came to the same conclusion – it was the best dinner we’ve enjoyed for some time.
We were in the restaurant for nearly two hours but never realized it had been that long as we were having the time of our lives. The end of another perfect day.
January 13 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
January 9, 2010
Another of that boat. There's something about Point Reyes that's magical.
Part 2 (Saturday Morning)
Tom was up very early. It was just after 5 and still dark but he was eager to get out and take some photos. I turned over and went back to sleep.
He returned, very cold, two hours later. I asked whether he had been able to take any photos in the dark. He had tried taking some long exposures shots of the stars but he didn’t think they were too successful When it started to get light he went down to the old wood boat marooned on the mudbank just a few minutes walk from our B&B. The tide was in and he hoped he had managed to get some good shots of the boat and its reflection in the water.
Coffee is available down in the sitting room from 7.30 but breakfast is not until 8.30. We went down for coffee – well Tom had coffee and I had tea – and we read the paper. There were already a few guests there and we chatted sporadically with them. One couple were from Mountain View, which is quite close to where we live. At breakfast we shared a table with Craig and Jenny who were from Campbell which is only a couple of miles from our home. Breakfast consisted of cereal, fruit, orange juice, yogurt and a cooked dish. It was very tasty.
After breakfast we went out for a short walk. We set out to find a trail but ended up walking up
A little windy but still a beautiful day.
Inverness Way and around a few blocks and then alongside the bay before making our way back to the B&B to change into our walking shoes. Then we set off in the car, driving north along Sir Francis Drake Blvd. It was only 10.30 so once again had time to kill. We parked on a gravel pull-in by Chicken Ranch Beach and took a walk along the beach. The tide was ebbing but it was still pretty high. Last time we came here we were able to walk north along the beach and under the numerous piers that have been built into Tomales Bay. Today we had to content ourselves by walking south. There were several fishermen along the edge of the water and though we didn’t see anybody catch anything, we noticed the tail of a fish sticking out of a bag. It looked like a tiger shark. Near three fishermen was a very wet black lab with a tennis ball in its mouth. He came up to me and dropped the ball at my feet. I asked if it was OK to throw the ball and one replied that it wasn’t their dog, it had just appeared. So I threw the ball a couple of times to please him. At one point he was stood on a slope and when he dropped the ball, it rolled into the water. When he looked down and saw the ball had gone he looked at me as much as to say, “well, how did you manage to throw the ball without me seeing you?” It didn’t take him long to find it again.
At 11 we returned to the car and set off for our first studio of the day. This was at the home of Philip Loring Greene and his wife. His speciality is Ilfochrome photography. Egrets and herons are his passion and he has some stunning photos of them. There were a couple of other people there and while his wife – who plays the harpsichord by the way – served us hot apple cider, Philip demonstrated how he developed his photos. It sounded very long and tedious and one has to admire his patience. It can take two weeks to produce one print.
The next studio we missed altogether, though not intentionally. It was difficult to find. I should have looked at the brochure more carefully because it said that access was through the Inverness Valley Inn.
We drove on to the next studio which belonged to Molly Prier. She makes functional ceramics and Pueblo style vessels. Molly’s studio is not very large and only half a dozen people could fit in at any one time. Her burnished bowls were very beautiful and felt smooth to the touch. She fires them by digging a trench and covering them with cow dung. When the fire dies down, the pit is covered with soil. It takes a long time to finish the pots. Though we were tempted to buy one, we didn’t succumb. Just down the road was the joint studio of Shari Miler, who makes creative jewelry – which we were not interested in – and Peter Sheremeta, who makes stoneware pottery and garden vessels. Outside were some of his garden pots. They were round and the bottom is shaped into three legs. The legs are open at the bottom to allow water to drain away – what a novel idea. Inside were the studios were his bowls. They were mostly round and in vibrant colors. Tom fell in love with one so he bought it. It is a Christmas present for his daughter. Peter demonstrated it’s perfect construction by tapping it and it gave the sound of a bell being struck. He showed us one which didn’t make that sound and he said it must have a crack in it but it didn’t now where it was.
A winding road through the woods to another studio.
The next studio on the list belonged to the wood sculptor, Bruce Mitchell but we missed the turning, so we carried on to the next one. We turned up Drakes View. It is a private road but as the sign definitely pointed that way, we carried on. The road climbed up and up and there were some really sharp horseshoe bends. We really thought we had taken the wrong road but then we saw a sign for the studio, so we knew we were headed in the right direction. On and up we climbed, passing some really nice houses. The Richard Blair and Kathleen Goodwin studio is right at the top of a hill and it was one that was badly damage by the 1995 Bolines Range fire. In fact Richard and Kathleen only had a cabin then and it burned down. Now they have built a lovely home which is also their studio. They are both photographers b ut Kathleen also does paintings and Richard produces books. I particularly liked some of Kathleen’s photos. One was of the raft moored offshore at Shell Beach and the other of a group of men in a bus shelter in Alysham.
We walked out of the studio, crossed the road and walked down a short track between some trees to look at the fabulous view down over Tomales Bay. It was a lovely sunny day but there was a chill in the air and the wind could be heard soughing through the trees. Tom pointed out how far the fire had travelled down the hill. You did distinctly see the break between the old and new growth of trees.
We returned to the car and drove down the hill again but turned on onto Upper Robert Drive where we visited the studio of Ed Stetson. This was the only place we stopped at where we were the only visitors. The studio was in the beautiful home of Ed and his wife with a commanding view of Tomales Bay. Ed is a photographer and uses a digital camera to shoot wildlife. He has captured some amazing shots – one of a Marsh Hawk carrying a vole in its talons; one of what he calls ’sand trees’ taken on Limator Beach and one of a pelican trying to get friendly with a wooden statue of a pelican. Tom and Ed had a long conversation about printing techniques, Photoshop and matting. It is interesting to pick up hints and tips from other photographers.
More to follow…..
January 09 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
December 31, 2009
Tom and I are off to Point Reyes for the weekend to celebrate our anniversary. We have booked into a B&B in Inverness for two nights. The main
Old fishing boat, "Point Reyes".
reason for choosing Point Reyes is to tour the Open Studios of the local artists. Twenty studios will be open over the weekend and we printed a list of them. I also printed a copy of the map but it was far too small to read.
We left at 7. A wet weekend was forecast but that’s OK. In fact it rained pretty heavily during the night and the roads were wet. We don’t mind the rain, except for the fact that Tom doesn’t like to take photos in the rain. Lots of rain is what we need here in California after several years of drought.
It was Black Friday – the day after Thanksgiving – and the official start of the holiday shopping spree. The roads were not too busy but all the car parks surrounding the shopping malls we passed were full. Some shops opened their doors just after midnight. The last place you will ever see Tom and I is fighting the masses to get that one object which we ‘must’ have at a ridiculous price. For us it is the open road, traveling to new places and meeting new and interesting people.
We stopped off in San Anselmo for breakfast at Comforts Cafe – see previous post. When we stopped outside the cafe there was a slight drizzle but the sun was shining.
After breakfast we continued along Sir Francis Drake Blvd, driving through San Geronimo, Forest Knolls and Lagunitas. It was a scenic drive with many trees showing off their autumnal colors. On our way home we plan to take a detour along the San Geronimo Valley Drive.
We pulled into Point Reyes Station at 10. Already there were a lot of cars around and we had to park on a side street. Point Reyes station is a nice place to browse the shops. There are no big stores but lots of funky little artsy craft shops. We went first to Toby’s Feed Barn where the Group Show is for the Open Studios. At the back of the store were exhibits from each of the studios which are open this weekend and here we picked up a brochure. I marked the ones we particularly want to visit. There were 17 crosses so we are going to be busy. The map in the brochure was very good I’m pleased to say.
We had time to kill as none of the studios opened until 11, so we took a wander around town. We passed the restaurant where Tom has booked for tomorrow night – Osteria Stellina. It looks really good.
As I was walking past a shop which had a large map of the the area displayed outside, I heard a woman asking two men what was there to do in the area. Of course I stopped to look at the map because I can’t resist them and the woman went on to say she was from San Jose. One of the men suggested Stinson Beach so I chimed in that Bolinas was also a nice place to visit. The same man replied that the tide was too high there. I then turned to him and asked if he lived in Bolinas and he admitted he did. I explained to the woman that Bolinas folk remove all road signs pointing to Bolinas to discourage people from visiting and that’s why it was worth a visit.
When in Point Reyes Station we always visit Point Reyes Books. Their range of books is fascinating and diverse. We idled away the time there until 11.
The first open studio we visited was Todd Pickering and it was one block over from where we were. Todd specializes in black and white photography so right up Tom’s alley. Todd and his dog met us at the door and welcomed us. He had a lot of very nice prints to look at and buy. Todd also told us he runs courses, either for groups or one to one. In February I am attending a weekend course in Sausalito and suggested to Tom it would be a good idea for him to do a photography course whilst I attended my course. We could always spend a night somewhere between Point Reyes and Sausalito, thereby saving me a trip back to San Jose in the evening or me spending a night on my own in a hotel. Todd was an interesting person to talk to. He also plays a guitar and had a CD of his music for sale.
Next door was Carolyn Mean’s porcelain and stoneware studio. She had bowls and vases on display. There were several ceramic teapots which were very decorative but impractical. There was also a selection of her seconds for sale which were very inexpensive.
As we walked back to the car there was a heavy drizzle. We were pleased to get back into the car as we were not wearing our jackets or carrying the umbrella. They were of course in the car but that was little use to us outside braving the elements.
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December 31 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
December 28, 2009
Once again we consulted Anna’s Cool Finds to find somewhere for breakfast on our way to Point Reyes. Last time we went to Bubba’s Diner on San
Comforts Cafe in San Anselmo
Anselmo Avenue and this time we picked Comforts Cafe, which is on the same street.
We used our new Garman (we’ve named it Camilla for her British accent) to find the place. This upgraded GPS offers a lot more refinements; better directions with exit numbers off freeways, names of streets, speed limits and it shows the actual speed we are traveling. Camilla deposited us right outside Comforts Cafe.
Comforts is a large, double fronted deli with a cafe at the side. There are seats outside under the awning. On week days it opens at 6.30 for takeaways and the cafe opens at 8.30. We timed it perfectly for opening time of the cafe.
The cafe is not large but it is bright and modern. Soft music played in the background. The tables are small and Formica topped. A padded bench runs along the walls on either side. At the counter there are four stools.
The menu is different with an interesting range of brunch choices. There was oatmeal on the list but I decided on the Comforts homemade granola with yogurt and seasonal fresh fruit ($7.50). Tom chose buttermilk griddle cakes served with real maple syrup and sausages ($11.45).
There were five pictures on the wall - opposite the entrance were two next to each other of green apples and near the counter were two more pictures of fruit, and a large oil painting of a street scene. Set on the back wall were three deep alcoves with ceramic pots in two of them and a pot plant in the lower one.
The napkins on the table were very nice. Although made of paper, they were large and thick. They also had the Comforts logo on them and underneath is written ‘Fine City and Homestyle Food.
The food is very good. My granola contained black and golden raisins, cashew nuts, coconut, almonds and pumpkin seeds. The furit wa sliced banana and strawberries. It was crummy. Tom enjoyed his griddle cakes and sausage. The coffee was $2.25 and he pronounced it as ‘good’.
Our server was cheerful friendly and efficient. What more can anybody ask?
There were two seperate restrooms. The one I chose (and I’m sure they are both very similar) was very good. The first thing I noticed when I opened the door was the pleasant smell. It was clean and the water was hot. There was one large picture on the wall of some persimmons In the corner was an antique drop leaf table with an unusual yellow orchid in a pot. All very pleasing.
On my way back to the table I took a look at the food for sale in the deli counter. Lots of yummy looking dishes. If you are passing this way and need something for dinner, this is a good place to shop. Oh, you lucky people in San Anselmo.
Yes, this is definitely somewhere I can’t wait to come back to.
Comforts Cafe
335 San Anselmo Avenue
San Anselmo, CA 94960
December 28 2009 | Breakfast Log | 2 Comments »
December 19, 2009
We could not decide where to go today but when Tom read Tom Stienstra’s column in the San Francisco Chronicle this week entitled ‘Sunday
Beautiful oak on the way to Little Yosemite in the Sunol Wilderness
Drive: Alameda Creek’, we thought it would be a good place to go. The newspaper article suggested starting the drive in the Coyote Hills Regional Park near the Dumbarton Bridge and following the Alameda Creek all the way to the Sunol Regional Wilderness. We decided to bypass the first part and drove to Niles via 880 and Fremont, then turning right on Highway 84 to drive through Niles Canyon.
It was an awesome drive through the canyon. On our right was the Alameda Creek and on our left the steep sides of the canyon. Between the canyon walls and the road is the Niles Canyon Railway which runs from Niles to Sunol. The railway has a total of ten steam locomotives and 14 diesel engines in its collection and Sundays is the only day it is possible to ride the rails. Must come one day and take the trip from Niles to Sunol and back.
We took a small detour on 84 into Sunol. We were looking for breakfast and although Sunol is a tiny place we were hoping to find somewhere to eat. There was one cafe and the Brew and Bones saloon which were not open but almost next door to the saloon was the Sunol Jazz Cafe. They do a Sunday brunch but we were way too early for that, though the smell of the chicken on the BBQ was tempting, but we were able to get a breakfast sandwich inside. Tom had a cup of coffee and I splurged out and had a hot chocolate (without the whipped cream!). As we didn’t have a full breakfast I won’t do a separate review but would like to comment on the interior as it was interesting. There were some very comfy looking sofas with a coffee table complete with books underneath plus a goodly array of tables and chairs; a grand piano in the corner; sacks of coffee beans and various knick knacks and seasonal pumpkins scattered around. All and all a nice place to stop for a snack (Note from Tom: the bagel sandwiches were pretty good. Certainly much better than the fast food type you’d get at McDonald’s. Coffee was pretty good too).
Cows paying us no mind
Back on the road again we headed east along 84, driving under 680. The road became Calaveras Road and now we were driving south back towards San Jose. Along the way we passed the Valley Crest Tree Company. If you want any sort of tree this is definitely the place to go. Miles upon miles of different trees in pots, from small to large. We turned left at Geary Road and headed towards the Sunol Regional Wilderness. It was a nice drive uphill and all along the way were signs saying ‘No Parking at Any Time’. There is a $5 charge to enter the park.
At the entrance we were given a small trail map and we discussed which trail we were going to hike. We decided on the Canyon View Trail but actually locating it took some time. It was difficult to work out exactly where it started and there were no signs to point us in the right direction. It was only when we were finally on the right track did I discover that by looking on the back of the map there was an enlarged map of the Sunol Valley Floor which clear shows how to get to the start of the trail. Eventually we found the right one but only after crossing the creek over rather unstable stepping stones. There were a couple of other hikers starting off at the same time, an athletic younger man and his dog and an older gentleman with his granddaughter. The athletic man strode away and disappeared into the distance but the man and his granddaughter were taking it slowly. He was taking photos as well and he told us that he had spotted a woodpecker.
Soon Tom and I were on our own and really enjoying our walk. Our route seemed to be uphill all the way but it was a very pleasant hike. There we were, not too far from home and only a few miles from 680 but it felt as if we were hundreds of miles from civilization. There were pretty views, lots of trees and the sound of birdsong. At one point I saw a raptor gliding way up – could it have been a Golden Eagle?
After about a mile we had to open a squeaky gate. We soon realized the gate was there because cattle were grazing. For the next part of the hike we encountered quite a few cows. Some took no notice at all, while others lifted their heads and stared at us as if we were creatures from another planet. The weather was just right; the sun was shining but there was a slight breeze. As we were warm from all the uphill climbing, the breeze felt marvelous. The athletic man with his dog came striding around the corner. They must have made it to the end and were on their way back.
There was a lot of grass around and due to the rains of last week it is looking quite green. The golden grass of the summer has gone. We speculated
Over that first ridge is Little Yosemite in the Sunol Regional Wilderness.
that there would be a lot of wildflowers here in the spring and we must plan to make another visit then. Standing all on its own in a little dip was a magnificent oak tree, its leaves turning a gorgeous brown and underneath a carpet of fallen leaves. While Tom was taking photos of the tree, a young couple came by. I asked them if there was a loop trail we could take back to the car and they said there was. When we reached the gate near some water troughs we just had to turn right down the service road which would take us back to the car park. They also told us not to miss Little Yosemite. That sounded very intriguing.
We rounded a corner and the path began to descend rather steeply. Tom told me not to walk and write as he was worried I would stumble over the edge. Below us were wonderful craggy views. We concluded this must be Little Yosemite Valley were were looking down onto. There was a unmarked steep downhill detour leading off to the right. Tom ventured down it and I followed. It ended at a scenic overview with a with dizzying drop to the valley beneath. I suffered vertigo when I looked down and had to back away from the edge. We climbed back to the marked trail and carried on until the cattle troughs and a gate. There was a sign for Little Yosemite but we had no idea whether to turn left or right.
A lady with a dog was standing nearby so I asked her where we could find Little Yosemite and she said we had arrived. In front of us were a lot of rocks. We could hear the sound of water but there was no sign of it. The lady, who was there with her husband and kids, told us there has been not much water these last couple of years. The best time to come though was in the spring. Then the water is in full spate it it tumbles and falls over the rocks.
We walked back to the car park along Camp Ohlone Road. To our right was the Alameda Creek. From here it falls towards Niles Canyon and continues downwards until it empties into the South Francisco Bay just north of the Dumbarton Bridge. The road sloped steadily downhill. No more steep climbing today for us. We passed underneath the scenic overlook and we strained our necks to see the top – it was a long way up. A group of riders on horseback passed us and we exchanged greetings.
We came to a sign which warned of a bridge ahead. No vehicles over 8 tons or tracked vehicles could drive over the bridge – they had to drive through the creek. Over the bridge we crossed another cattle grid and were in the Lower Car Park called Alameda Grove. It was only a short walk from there back to the car.
We really enjoyed our walk in the Sunol Regional Wilderness and we will be back.
December 19 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
December 10, 2009
View of San Francisco from Twin Peaks
Today we were a bit confused when we woke up. I have a radio wave clock and it showed the right time but Tom’s alarm was an hour ahead. It took some time to work that that in fact the clocks had gone back an hour during the night.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We hope it is not going to be foggy in the city today as we are off to Twin Peaks and the fantastic views of the bay and the city of San Francisco. It is a place I have never been to and have been keen to go to for a while. We are going to incorporate a stairway walk as well.
Our first stop was for breakfast and then it was off to find Twin Peaks. Fortunately we spotted a sign so followed it. The drive to the top was curvy and there were great glimpses of the fantastic views off to the right all the way up. Twin Peaks is exactly that – two identical peaks very close to each other. Round each peak is a one way road which is like a figure of 8. We headed for the small car park at the top. The Sutro Tower is one peak over.
My, the view is wonderful and almost 360 degrees. There was no fog but it was a bit hazy. We could see the San Francisco end of the Bay Bridge but not Oakland and the east bay. The top of the Golden Gate Bridge, Angel Island, Alcatraz and the whole of the city were laid out in front of us. The sun was bright so hoped the fog will burn off before we started our walk.
At first there were not many people around but within ten minutes a tour bus turned up and disgorged its passengers. Suddenly Tom was
Tourists, tourists, tourists.
surrounded by a horde of French people, chattering loudly, all vying to get the best view in their allotted 10 minute stop. One visitor actually climbed to the top of the raining and swayed precariously while her partner took a picture. Almost as foolhardy as the guy who climbed over the railings at the Grand Canyon to sit on the edge of the cliff to have his photo taken. Then another tour bus arrived, this time the passengers were Japanese. They were far more thoughtful and courteous and didn’t crowd Tom or stand in front of his camera. I’m not decrying the French per se but was interested to see how differently the two cultures behaved.
While Tom clicked away I tried to pick out the landmarks. Of course the Transamerica Pyramid and the Bank of American buildings were easily spotted. Coit Tower was more difficult but I found it eventually. I worked out where Golden Gate Park was but only the extreme eastern end and the Pan Handle could be seen. There were a couple of hilltops nearby but didn’t know what they were. I checked Google Maps when I got home. The larger one was the Buena Vista Park and the smaller one Corona Heights Playground where the Randall Museum is situated. On a clear day we would be able to see Mounts Tamalpais and Diablo. We will have to come one morning before the sun rise – that would be a great shot.
The first two tour buses departed but their places were soon taken by two more buses. It was time to make a move before more buses arrived and we were completely crowded out.
We drove down Twin Peaks Blvd towards the city to find the start of our staircase walk – No. 13 in the third edition of Adah Bakalinsky’s ‘Stairway Walks in San Francisco’ – at the Iron Alley Stairway on Clayton Street. We found it without difficulty but painted on the stairway was a sign saying the staircase was closed. Finding somewhere to park was a bit of a problem but in the end we struck lucky and found a very convenient place right at the top of the Iron Alley Stairway on Corbett Avenue.
Twin Peaks homes perched on the hillside. That's the Sutro Tower in the back.
We started the walk by crossing Corbett and up Iron Alley to Graystone Terrace. Looking up the hill it was fascinating to see not only the many different types of house built on the side of the hill but also to wonder at the views they must have of the city beneath them. Taking a left on Graystone we walked to Cooper Alley where we descended a concrete stairway between houses back to Corbett. Here we took another left and passed Rooftop Elementary School with its sparkling tile mural on the wall arriving back at our car, which we walked right past carrying on towards Clayton. Along this section we looked up the hill again and could see the scenic viewpoint on Twin Peaks were we had been just half an hour before.
At the junction or Corbett and Clayton is a small garden strip along the side of the house which is beautifully laid out and well stocked with small trees and shrubs, including a lantana growing vertically in a pot. We have lantana in our garden and it is a ground cover plant. I have never seen it growing vertically before. On Clayton we turned left, climbing uphill to Twin Peaks Blvd. We were surprised at how quiet everything was with very few people around. We passed one guy outside his garage repairing his motorcycle and that was the first person we had seen, apart from a jogger who passed us earlier.
Between the houses to our right we caught glimpses of the city and the, when we turned left on Twin Peaks Blvd we got some glorious views of Golden Gate Park, including the De Young Museum, the two towers of the Golden Gate Bridge and out beyond the Bonita lighthouse to the ocean. There is an open patch of ground at the foot of a rocky outcrop which is called Tank Hill. While Tom took photos, I perched myself on a small rock and looked over the rooftops to the north.
Onwards and upwards to a short wooden stairway which led to the top of Tank Hill. There is a covered reservoir on the top which you could walk over. There are a lot of reservoirs up here on Twin Peaks where water for San Francisco is stored.
A little further uphill there was a small outcrop of rocks and another outstanding view of the city but this time from a different angle. The haze had cleared and we can now see Oakland clearly but Mount Diablo was vaguely discernible in the background. There was a slight breeze up there but it felt good and it carried the wonderful smell of eucalyptus to me.
Back down on Twin Peaks Blvd where it bears left at the junction with Clarendon Avenue there is a small public garden where we sat in the shade for a few minutes on a stone bench. We continued walking on Twin Peaks Blvd and passed a big blue house with enormous windows and we spotted a white grand piano inside. At the junction with Raccoon Drive we turned left and walked past some very nice houses. About halfway along we passed what looked like a stone sculpture but on closer inspection it turned out to be made of styrofoam. Raccoon Drive descended and at the
Pemberton Place. A lovely stairway.
bottom we turned left. I knew it was a dead end road with a pathway through to Crown Terrace but Tom didn’t know and became worried that I was walking through somebody’s garden. There was a sign that said ‘Residents Only’ and ‘No Trespassing’ but according to Adah’s book it was a legitimate way through.
Crown Terrace is a gem and surely a highly desirable place to live. Here you are within a short distance of the city but away from a lot of traffic. A short way along is Pemberton Place which in reality is a long stairway crossing Graystone and Villa Terrace and descends all the way back to Clayton. It is a marvelous stairway with occasional landings where you can sit and admire the view over the city. Back on Clayton we turned right and then right again onto Corbett and made our way back to the car.
As I was about to get into the car, a young man came out of a nearby house and approached the Iron Alley stairway and started to descend. I stopped him and asked why there was a sign at the bottom which said it was closed. He said it had been closed for some time for repair and a gate was put at the top to prevent children using it to get to the school as it was dangerous. The gate is still there but is not locked any more and the stairway has been repaired. The sign at the bottom has not been removed though. We’ll remember that next time.
We have had another interesting day, discovering Twin Peaks and then enjoying the staircase walk and all it cost was the price of the gas and breakfast at the Squat and Gobble. How’s that for good value?
December 10 2009 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | No Comments »
December 5, 2009
The West Portal Squat and Gobble in San Francisco
We are on our way to Twin Peaks today and passed this breakfast place en route. Who could resist such a name?
The Squat and Gobble is right next to the Muni west portal tunnel, right on the corner of Portola West and Vicente. There are little tables and wrought iron chairs outside. Inside it is large and bright with soft guitar music playing in the background.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The first thing you see as you walk in the door is a huge blackboard with their whole, extensive, menu written up, inter-spaced with colorful drawings of the food. Here you choose and pay for your food before you find a table and sit down, clutching your order number on its little stand in your hand.
Tom ordered the Triple Gobbler, which consisted of two pancakes, two eggs and two apple sausages for $9.25. There was granola on the board but no oatmeal. I did ask if they did oatmeal and was told they did. Great. I was also asked if I wanted it made with water or milk. This made me question whether it is made straight out of a packet and heated in a microwave. They assured me it wasn’t so I went for it. I was tempted by the choice of pancakes but resisted.
A long padded bench is fixed along the outside wall and the tables are small but can be pushed together. Covering the whole of one wall is a mural showing food in the foreground, including a bottle of Squat and Gobble wine, and a a scenic view in the background. There is a back section as well where they have framed pictures on the wall of food.
Tom’s coffee was brought first and he was impressed. It was good and strong. He thought it was as good as Peet’s. Then the food arrived and there was plenty of it. Tom’s came on a big white plate and my oatmeal in a very large glass bowl on a round white plate. It was topped with a liberal serving of bananas and strawberries. I had asked for mine to be made with milk so no milk came separately. I asked for and received a small jug of milk. The oatmeal had cinnamon on it and was good. There was too much for me to eat it all and I left some. That’s a first for me!
The restroom was one of the better ones. It was large and clean with plenty of hot water. There was one picture on the wall of a couple dancing. In the corner was a potted plant on a nice stand. The mirror was large and I liked the matt silver frame.
Our conclusion – lots of food, quick efficient service, pleasant surroundings and the food was good. Would we come here again? Yes and next time I’ll have the pancakes.
Squat and Gobble
1 W Portal Ave
San Francisco, CA
December 05 2009 | Breakfast Log | 2 Comments »
November 30, 2009
After our stop at Pomponio State Beach, it was time for breakfast and we headed for the only place between here and Santa Cruz – Gazos Grill -
Gazos Grill along the San Mateo Coast
which is halfway between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo. We had to slow down as we were passing the lighthouse and then stop for a roadblock. There was a sign warning of a bike race taking place and Highway 1 was down to one lane for a short stretch. Sure enough, there were lots of cyclists and the lighthouse was the turnaround point.
Due to the number of cyclists on the road we had to be careful pulling into the car park of Gazos Grill. There were several people along the way watching the race and at least one photographer sporting a big lens. When I got home I checked online to see what the bike race was all about. Apparently it was Big Kahuna Half Ironman Distance. It was due to start with a 1.2 mile swim around the wharf in Santa Cruz starting at 7 am but due to heavy fog it was cancelled. The 56 mile bike ride and the 13.6 run went ahead though.
The last time we visited Gazos Grill we back in November 2007. Then we were the only customers. Today it was reasonably busy thanks to the bike race I expect.
We picked one of the high tables in the window with a restricted view of the ocean but a good place to watch the bikes racing by.
There was no oatmeal on the menu but I remembered from last time that is is available sometimes. When the server came to take our order I asked and today it was available so, of course, that’s what I requested. With fruit it is $5.95. I also had toast ($1.75). Tom ordered the San Gregorio Eggs Benedict which came with smoked salmon ($14.95).
Gazos Grill used to go by the name of the Beach House and the sign is still outside. It is a large restaurant separated into two sections. Some evenings they have bands playing and over the next few weeks there are several dances and parties planned.
There are no booths or a counter so not your typical diner. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The place is adorned with a vast array of pictures and posters of lighthouses, whales, elephant seals and all things nautical. In fact, lighthouses seem to be the main theme. On one wall there is a vast net hanging on the wall with fish and shellfish sculptures fixed to it. On each table was a single, almost fresh, flower in a vase and a small pumpkin.
The oatmeal came in a large round bowl with sliced strawberries and bananas. The milk came in a very small brown ceramic jug . There was not enough milk so halfway through the meal I asked for some more, which was promptly brought to me.
The restrooms are on the far side of the restaurant and although pretty standard as far as basic facilities were concerned they were lavishly decorated with pictures. The nautical theme was carried through from the restaurant. There was a laminated poster of coral pinned to the wall, a colored photo of a local beach and a rather tatty picture of mussels taped to another wall. There were also six framed pictures of beach scenes and one of the ‘I Love Lucy Show’, which, of course, has nothing to do with anything nautical. Next to the wash basin was a jug with a fish on the front. Last time there was also an easy chair here but missing this time. One other comment, the water was brownish in color.
Our conclusion – on the plus side it’s in a convenient location and it’s interestingly decorated and my oatmeal was good with ample fruit but on the negative side, Tom said his eggs could have been cooked a bit more as they were a bit runny and on the whole the food is a bit expensive.
Gazos Grill
5720 Cabrillo Highway 1
Pescadero, CA 94060
November 30 2009 | Breakfast Log | Comments Off
November 19, 2009
The beach looked nice but not the way down.
The challenge we set for ourselves today was to investigate some of the coastal accesses south of Half Moon Bay on the San Mateo coast. We normally head for our favorite spots like Franklin Point or Pigeon Point but there are many other places, some of which are private and some are unofficial.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We checked the weather before we set off and it looked like it was going to be a great day. When we set off all seemed to be clear and no sign of fog. Imagine our surprise when we heard on the radio that there was a fog advisory for the San Mateo coast. We discussed whether going to the coast would be a good idea. Maybe we should revise our plan and head east. Eventually we decided to continue with our plans and if we ran into thick fog, we could turn around and go elsewhere.
There was a bit of low lying fog at the junction of Highways 280 and 92 but not bad enough to turn back. Driving into Half Moon Bay was clear. The weekend before the Half Moon Bay’s annual Pumpkin Festival was held and we passed many huge pumpkin patches still with lots of pumpkins exhibited for sale. I expect there will be loads of families turned up later in the day looking for the perfect pumpkin.
In Half Moon Bay, we stopped at a drive through coffee kiosk at the junction of Highway 92 and Main Street. Although it was lit up and the ‘Open’ sign was flashing, we were dubious that it was actually open for business but we were pleased to discover it was. A very courteous youth opened the window and sold us two strong cups of very hot coffee.
Through Half Moon Bay we headed south on Highway 1 looking out for signs which said ‘Coastal Access’. We passed a road which was called
San Gregorio Beach along the San Mateo Coast
Redondo Beach Road. Did that mean there was a beach at the end? We didn’t want to take the risk. The first brown ‘coastal access’ was at Miramontes Road so we turned right. We passed a very small car park but doubted whether that led to the beach so we carried on. What we didn’t realize was that at the end of the road was the very exclusive Ritz Carlton Hotel with it’s expensive golf course attached and there was no stopping unless we were headed to one or the other. It was just after 7 and we were surprised how many people were not only out on the course but were still turning up. We beat a hasty retreat and headed back to the one small car park we had passed earlier.
At one time all the headland would have been accessible but when the land was bought and the hotel built I guess they had to provide some public access to the beach. The very small car park and one right of way to the beach, which cuts through the golf course, was their token of compliance. We did not bother to investigate any further and carried on with our quest.
We passed two marked roads to the beach but they were closed off. Our next stop was at an unmarked access. To the right was a wide gravel shoulder with a couple of overnight camper vans parked. The only point of reference was a blue San Mateo call box sign – telephone number SM001-205. The access was downhill and very steep but we went for it.
The path was twisty and deeply rutted. The recent heavy rains have gouged a deep crevice all the way down and the ground is still damp and slightly muddy. The view were spectacular though. Off to the right the sheer cliff extends into the ocean, probably the Ritz Carlton is on that peninsula. Tom stopped to take photos so I clambered on down but could not make it all the way to the beach. It is possible but the final stretch was via an unstable almost vertical drop with just a collection of tatty ropes tied to stunted bushes to prevent a headlong fall. At my age, I don’t think so. I intercepted Tom before he reached that point and we climbed back up the steep incline. At least we know not to come here again.
We drove on to San Gregorio Beach. This is a state managed beach with a proper car park right on the beach. There is a fee to be paid. At 8.30 in the morning the kiosk was unmanned but there are envelopes available to post your fee. The charges are $8 for day use ($7 for seniors) but if does allow you to use all the state beaches on the same day.
Egret at Pomponio Beach
Tom and I have been to this beach several times and each time it is different. For some reason a lot of driftwood is washed up here – mostly huge logs. I wonder where they all come from? There are always temporary structures built with this driftwood and today was no exception. One looked like a log cabin. Maybe somebody was sleeping inside. The beach itself is sandy with a large lagoon. Of course, the lagoon is always a different shape each time we come. There are notices up telling anglers not to breach the lagoon because it will kill the fish. I took a short walk along the beach and then found a convenient log to sit on and write. The sun was beginning to warm everything up.
The next state beach is Pomponio. This is very much like San Gregorio but here both the lagoon and the amount and size of the driftwood is on a smaller scale. No driftwood structures here but what was man made were a couple of huge forts made out of sand. They had obviously been made yesterday and beyond reach of high tide. I also noticed washed up on the bach lots of tiny dead white crabs. The cliffs here are interesting as well because they are high and studded with rows of small stones.
We by-passed Pescadero State Beach, which has three access pooints, due not only to lack of time but it deserves an entry all to itself at a later date. It was here we took a breakfast break – see next entry.
Our next and last beach stop was at Bean Hollow State Beach. There is a car park at each end and we used the sourthern end. This is one of our
Strange rocks at Bean Hollow State Beach
favorite beaches as it has everything that we look for in a beach – scenic views, lots of wave action, sandy and little used. Once again the rocks were interesting but completely different from Pomponio. Here they are sandstone (I think) but with lots of holes in them which made them look like honeycomb. One of the taller rocks, looking at it from a distance, reminds me of a man made town on a mountainside. Tom and I both have different interpretations as to how the holes are formed. Tom thinks they are caused by wave action whilst I believe the holes were made by burrowing shellfish of some kind. If anybody out there knows the answer, we would be interested to hear from you.
I walked to the end of the beach to see if there was any way through to the northern end. The tide was fairly high so could not make much progress along the beach although it may be possible to clamber over the rocks. At the top of the beach I noticed a footpath which heads over the bluffs so ventured along it a little way. Indeed there is a trail alongside the road which goes to the other end. I discovered a secluded little cove where a couple were enjoying a picnic. It was a perfect location protected from the wind, unless the breeze was coming off the ocean.
The weather turned out to be glorious in the end. The slight early morning haze had completely disappeared with tempretures up in the 70’s. Thank goodness we did not change our plans.
Although we checked out quite a few coastal access locations, there are several we did not have the time to do today. Apart from Pescadero State Beach, there is also Gazos Creek, Pigeon Point and one other place between Bean Hollow and Pigeon Point. We’ll have to save those for another day.
Nice scene in Pescadero
We decided to take another route home past Butano State Park and along Pescadero Creek Road to cross Skyline Blvd. But first of all a short stop in Pescadero. It is always a pleasure to revisit this special place. Duartes Tavern was bustling. I noticed that the signs for ‘The Rock Guy’ were not on the telegraph posts in the street. When I got home I checked online and found one small reference to the fact that he died this past winter. Another local ‘character’ that will be missed.
We had a look round Made in Pescadero. We love their hand made furniture and the smell of wood but the prices are a little out of our budget. In Arcangeli’s Country Bakery we bought some sourdough garlic bread, just out of the oven, and half a pound of mild cheddar cheese. Just right for a little picnic. There were signs in the store to say they now had a picnic area at the back of the store next to the Pescadero Creek. So we went to have a look. It is always interesting to check out buildings from the back. The picnic area is nice and quiet and there was nobody else around. On our stroll back to the street, Tom pointed out some flowering artichokes in the garden next door. I had never seen those huge thistle like flowers before.
After finishing our stroll around Pescadero, we made our way back to the car and the very pleasant drive home. The end of another perfect day.
November 19 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
November 8, 2009
The Intrepid explorers
No time to go out for breakfast this morning but we made do with coffee, tea and oatmeal from a packet. The canoe tour starts at 9 but the instructions said to get there a good 15 minutes before the start. At 8.30 we walked from the cottage, past Russell’s wood shop and along the path to the levee. In less than five minutes we were at the boat ramp. Then we waited, and waited and waited. A couple of fishermen arrived but they knew nothing about any canoe tour. We consulted the instructions, map and leaflet again and both agreed we were in the right place but where was everybody else. Was this going to be a repeat of the walking tour yesterday? There was no sign of any canoes anywhere which was a worrying thing.
Eventually, just before 9, three cars turned up and when people got out they were wearing life jackets and carrying paddles. A very good sign we thought. We went up to speak to them and found out that they had been met a quarter of a mile back up the road where they had to sign in and choose their life jacket and paddle. Of course we had just walked from Locke and had bypassed all of this. I guess not many people actually walked to the boat ramp.
Tom and I walked quickly the quarter of mile back along the road. I was worried that the person who signed the others in would have given up and left but we were in luck. The signer in was also the guide so she was still waiting for us to arrive. We signed the form and picked up our equipment and walked back to the boat ramp. Soon after we had rejoined the group, the jeep arrived with the canoes and we helped unload them.
There were 12 people altogether including the guide – who was called Robin. This is a novice tour so Robin went over a few basic rules. She told us
Margaret as we're heading back to dry land.
that the strongest person sits in the back and steers. She also explained how to get in and out of the canoes; the important thing to remember is not to stand up and to put all the weight on one foot at a time.
Off we set. None of us had no trouble getting into the canoes, though it felt a little unstable to me. Tom sat in the back and I was in the front. Tom has kayaked before but has not been in a canoe for a long time and never in a two man canoe. It took some time to get used to working as a team. Of course I could not see what Tom was doing at all but at least I had a good view of what was going on in front.
We were canoeing on the Railroad Slough which dead ends in about a mile. Robin explained that the slough was formed when workers dug out the soil by hand to build the railroad levee. Most of those workers lived in Locke I’m sure. We managed to get to the end of the slough without too much difficulty.
At the end there is a huge marshy area and we were going to see how far we could get into the marsh. At first it was quite wide and two or three canoes could be abreast but the further we went the narrower it became and we had to go single file.
We passed a huge heron rookery which has been in use by the birds for a couple of decades. Today we only saw a couple of herons flying and we spotted a few nests built high up in the oak trees, In the springtime there are hundreds of herons nesting in the trees so that would be a good time to make this trip.
When the slough got narrower it also began to twist and turn more. On several occasion Tom and I got too close to the vegetation. The first time it happened I began to panic a little but we managed to get clear. What was really bothering me was the fact that there was no dry land at all nearby so what would I do if the canoe overturned?
I think this guy is lost
The water began to get shallower as well and we could put our paddles down and touch the muddy bottom. Mud was being displaced when we paddled. Soon we could go no further so we stopped for a break. We couldn’t get out but we snacked, drank water and chatted. There was a bit of current around so we drifted around a bit though some clever people had managed to wedge themselves into the reeds so they did not move. It was good to have a rest from the paddling for a few minutes.
We then went on to explore another spur of the marsh but that came to a dead end when there was no clearance between the canoes and the slough bottom. At one point, another couple grounded themselves on a submerged log but we managed to get them clear.
It was time to head back. Now we were going not only with the current but with the wind behind us. Everything seemed much easier somehow and we could take our time to look and study the wildlife all around us. We spotted some turtles sunbathing on tree stumps sticking out of the water. As we glided past they slipped into the water with barely a plop. Our most memorable sight though was seeing three deer jump into the slough ahead of us and swim across to the other side. I noticed the three splashes and could see something in the water but had no idea what they were. As we got closer we could see by the ears that they were deer.
In no time at all it seemed we were back at the boat ramp. The first couple to attempt the landing had a mishap. The lady in the front obviously forgot the instructions Robin gave in the beginning about keeping the weight on one foot. As she got out of the canoe it drifted away from the edge and she landed in the water. Fortunately she did not hurt herself. Everybody else of course made sure they did not make the same mistake.
It took ten minutes to get all the canoes out of the water and back onto the trailer. Then we said our farewells to the the group and walked back into Locke. As we passed the Wood Shop, Deborah came out so we walked back together to her house. Russell was inside and good to his word he had the cutting board ready for us. We had an interesting chat with them about Locke and the history of their particular house. Russell bought it for $50 from a guy in Al the Wops Bar in 1976. It used to be a boarding house for aged Chinese men. At that time though it was very dilapidated and half buried in the dirt. Russell literally rebuilt it from the foundations to the roof, diving it into two, with their residence in the front and the vacation rental in the back. The rest is history. He went on to say that the place is reputed to be haunted. It didn’t feel haunted to me but I’m no expert.
We have had a very restful, interesting and enjoyable weekend in a unique part of the world and would thoroughly recommend it to anybody.
It was time to head home before the afternoon exodus back to the Bay Area begins with just one stop along the way at Mel’s Mocha and Ice Cream. We just could not come all this way and not have one of their not to be missed extra thick vanilla malts. Absolutely scrummy.
November 08 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
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