July 1, 2010
Old Town Cafe in Grass Valley, California
Old Town Cafe is in the historic downtown area of Grass Valley. After our late night we woke up at 8.30 so we didn’t set out for breakfast until 10am. For us, that is very nearly lunch time! Neither of us was very hungry after our gorgeous meal last night but Tom needed coffee.
Grass Valley is the nearest fair sized town so that’s where we headed. We found a car park which gave us three hours of free parking and headed for the historic district. One of the first places I noticed on the way there was a shop selling pasties – could they be Cornish pasties I wonder? Decided to check on that later.
The historic downtown area in Grass Valley is charming. There is a long street, with a slight kink in the middle, lined with old buildings which have been turned into cute shops selling antiques, clothes, books, furniture and, most important of all, breakfast.
Inside the Old Town Cafe it was not large but very roomy. We were seated at one of the tables in the window. The padded seats were wide and comfortable and the table was just the right height, plus, being in the window, we had a good view of the street outside. There was only one booth, seven tables for four people and thirteen stools at the counter.
As they also serve lunch, the menu had burgers and sandwiches on offer. The breakfast selection spread over two pages but mainly consisted of egg dishes and a few pancakes. They did have oatmeal ($4.29) so that was my choice. Tom ordered chorizo and eggs ($7.00) with corn tortillas and salsa. There was a note on the front of the menu which stated that the Old Town Cafe was the oldest continuous operating eatery in Grass Valley.
There were lots of photos on the walls, mostly of Grass Valley in the gold rush days. On the wall next to me were three color photos of old custom-built cars. Apart from that, I saw nothing else unusual, quirky or off the wall which caught my eye.
My oatmeal was served in a small, deep, round, bowl on a tea plate. The milk came in a stainless steel lidded jug and the brown sugar and raisins in small ceramic bowls. The oatmeal was OK but could have been hotter. Maybe it had been sitting a while before being served. Tom’s chorizo and eggs was not bad at all. He asked for extra crispy hash browns and that is exactly what he got.
The restroom was through the kitchen and up some stairs. It was OK. The water did not get hot at all so that was definitely a minus point. There was a wooden shelf with three coat pegs. Fake ivy was draped over it and was wound round exposed pipes. You know I like quirky but on the shelf were some rather odd items – a roll on deodorant, an old carton of dental floss and a table knife. Umm.
The Old Town Cafe had some commendable attractions – location, good chorizo and eggs. On the minus side – lukewarm oatmeal and the cold water in the restroom. Would we go again? Definitely.
Old Town Cafe
110 Mill Street
Grass Valley, CA 95945
July 01 2010 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
June 25, 2010
The Penn Valley cabin we stayed in.
This is the start of the long Memorial Day weekend. For me it is a four day weekend because I have every other Friday off. We are off to spend three nights in a secluded log cabin in Penn Valley which is in the Sierra Nevada foothills. Penn Valley is close to both Grass Valley and Nevada City in the Gold Country.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
As it was a working day for lots of people, we set off at 10 a.m. after the rush hour. The major part of our journey was on the 680 freeway, over the Benicia-Martinez Bridge, up to Interstate 80 to join Route 113. From here on the journey started to be interesting, maybe because it was new territory for both of us and you know how we love to explore new places. We were driving north through a part of the Central Valley where the main industry is agriculture. Partly submerged fields were on either side of the road indicating that rice is the main crop in this area.
We entered a small town and saw a sign which said ‘Historic Knights Landing’. An ideal spot to stop and stretch our legs we thought as we had been driving for two hours. The town seemed to consist of just one street. Some of the houses were historic but we could not see any downtown area so it was a quick stop. Back on the road again, we crossed the mighty Sacramento River and headed for Yuba City. With apologies to the residents of that city but I was not impressed. All we saw was one shopping center after another. We did stop at a Starbucks for a coffee though.
With Yuba City behind us we continued along Route 20 through Marysville towards Grass Valley. Our surroundings became more and more interesting. Ahead we could see the snow-capped Sierras in the distance and we began to climb into the foothills. On the map I noticed that the next town along was called Timbucto0 but we never saw any signs of it at all. Being curious I checked when I arrived home. There was indeed a town called Timbuctoo. Legend has it that a freed slave found gold in the area and asked that the town be named after Timbuktu in Africa where he was born. It was a booming town in the 1850′s when hydraulic mining was at its peak. When that form of mining was banned in 1884, the town slowly declined and now only the remains of one structure is left and Timbuctoo is officially a ghost town.
Gas light post in Nevada City. I guess somebody goes around each night lighting these.
Just before the small town of Penn Valley our directions were to turn left heading towards Lake Wildwood. Before we reached the lake we made another left onto a private road. Along this road we suddenly had the most amazing view in front of us of Yuba City and the Central Valley with the Sutter Buttes behind. Not long after that we arrived at the home of Chuck Frank, the owner of our log cabin. His home is also built from logs but is much larger than our cabin, Chuck, his wife Kathy and daughter Holly welcomed us into their home and took us onto their wrap around balcony. In one direction we had another view of the Sutter Buttes and below us a fast flowing creek, complete with several small waterfalls, with a heavily wooded ridge in front of us. Chuck pointed to where our cabin was but it was hidden behind some trees.
There was no way our Prius would be able to get down the slope to the cabin so we were given the keys to a four wheel drive truck. We loaded our luggage into it and set off. Chuck drove ahead in his ATV to show us the way. We could only to so far down in the SUV. The rest was on foot down a steep 300′ long rocky path to the cabin. And there was our home for the next three days – a lovely, one bedroom log cabin just above the babbling brook. Total seclusion. Inside we had a living room, kitchenette and bathroom on the ground floor with a door onto a balcony overlooking the creek. The bedroom was in a loft and to get to it we had to climb a steep wooden ladder. I felt like Heidi.
As soon as we had explored the cabin, we set off to walk along a track which led to the top of the waterfall. Chuck and Kathy said it was possible to pan for gold in the stream and in the cabin were a couple of pans and a metal detector. They gave us a few hints on how to look for gold. On this occasion we were just happy to soak in the view and take photos.
Earlier I had asked Chuck about wildlife. There were plenty of deer and coyotes and maybe a few rattlesnakes. They have lived here for eight years and have never seen either a beer or a mountain lion near the cabin, but three weeks ago they did see three wild peafowl.
At 3.30 we made our way back up the path to the SUV, then on up to our car before heading into Nevada City which was about 15 miles away. We have booked seats for a show in town which starts at 8.15. Before that we wanted to take a walk around the town and get something to eat.
Nevada City is a picture perfect town. Built in the gold rush days, the buildings are mostly old and lots of the houses are cute Victorians with lovely gardens. In most shop windows were displayed sepia photographs of Nevada City in the good old days. We checked all the menus posted outside restaurants on Broad Street to see where we wanted to eat tonight and Citronee appealed to us the most. It opened at 5 so, with time to kill, we went into the Mine Shaft for a drink beforehand. Inside it was dark and several TV sets were tuned to different stations. The two closest to us were showing a basketball and a baseball game. I won’t say it was crowded but it certainly was not empty. We were greeted by the barmaid and ordered a couple of beers – I always ask for a shandy which is beer with a dash of 7-Up. The atmosphere was friendly and casual and we struck up a conversation with another customer about basketball.
Downtown Nevada City
Just after 5, we sauntered up the Broad Street to Citronee. The restaurant is very pleasant inside and we were immediately shown to a table in the front part. At first we were the only customers sitting in that section though the back section had quite a few people in it. We ordered a starter – anchovies on crostini - and sipped our wine as we waited. Just before our main course arrived our server came over and asked if we would mind moving to a different table. A party of 7 had walked in without a reservation and the only way they could fit them in was by moving us. Of course we were quite happy to oblige and as a thank you we didn’t have to pay for the starter. For our main course, Tom had filet mignon and I had chicken. Both dishes were superb. It was a great meal.
Our evening was not over as we had booked to see a show called ‘The Be-Bop Stop’ at Off Broadstreet on Commercial Street, which was only a short walk away. The theatre was not very large and set out in cabaret style. We had good seats towards the back on a slightly raised platform. We were sat at a small round table with a red check tablecloth. On the stage, a guitarist was playing well known songs from the fifties. He was good and had everybody singing along. The atmosphere was very relaxed and friendly. We had drinks served at the table. Tom had a hazelnut coffee and I had a hot chocolate. The show was described as ‘A Nostalgic Musical Comedy’. We were not really expecting a top notch performance, afterall Nevada City is a small rural town, but we were very pleasantly surprised. The plot, costumes, acting and especially the singing were marvelous. During the intermission we ordered deserts. Tom had the chocolate truffle cheesecake and I had Maui Pie. Scrummy.
What a fantastic night out we had in Nevada City. All we had to do was to find our way back to the cabin and negotiate our way down the track and then the walk to our destination. Of course a flashlight is an absolute must. Fifteen minutes later we were ensconced inside, looking out of the large picture window at the myriad stars and with the sound of the creek lulling us to sleep.
June 25 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
June 16, 2010
Oops, pardon me! Must have been that squid I had last night.
Continuing on our visit to Ano Nuevo we’re heading down the trail towards the point and the elephant seals.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
To the right of the path was a small pond. Further on there is a wooden viewing platform with information boards about the birds which frequent the pond and a couple of rare visitors which have been spotted there. Garter Snakes and the endangered the California Red-legged Frog have made their homes here.
A trail to Cove Beach is off to the left. Down below I could see the beach and I ventured a short way down but didn’t go all the way as we were anxious to see the elephant seals. A nearby sign warns you not to get too close to the cliff edge and a big information board explained about the crumbling cliffs. Another sign warned of poison oak.
About half way down the Ano Nuevo Trail is the boundary of the Wildlife Protection Area. Here is the staging area where the docent led tours commence during the December to March period. There are information boards, a bench and a restroom nearby. At this time of the year there are no restrictions, so we carried on.
The path became muddy and there were some huge puddles which we had to negotiate. The water in some of them looked oily and I wandered what caused it. Tom was worried that it was run-off from farmland further inland. At one point, a plank had been placed over one of the puddles. Then the path became sandy and soon we were climbing our first sand dune.
The first major spot to get up close to the elephant seals is at South Point. Here there was a roped off area and just beyond that lots of seals laying
Well hello there. Elephant seal pup at Ano Nuevo
about on the sand. Most of them were the pups born earlier this year. Their mums feed them for about a month and then left them to fend for themselves and they never return to them. The pups live off their fat for a couple of months. During that time they go through their first molt and then they head for the ocean. At this time, they are very vulnerable. Lurking offshore are sharks and killer whales. There were also a number of female seals on the beach. They had hauled ashore for their annual molt.
I must admit the seals have a certain smell about them. It is not particularly offensive but, on the other hand, it is not the most attractive aroma around. They are a bit noisy as well. Think of a burp and then magnify it five times. The males are very noisy and can really bellow.
We left the South Point viewing area and returned to the trail. The path became extremely muddy. When I was last here several years ago we walked all the way to North Point but that trail was closed. Today the trail ends at Bright Beach where there are two spots to view the seals. We picked the one on the right and the only other person there was a docent. Here there were a lot more seals than at South Point.
The docent, Randy Baum, spent a long time to talking to us and gave us lots of fascinating information about the seals. He explained that the seals spend most of their lives at sea. On land they look ungainly, though it is surprising how quickly they can move at times, but in the ocean they are in their element. They dive to about 2,000 feet but the record dive has been recorded at over 5,000 feet. One of the reasons they can dive so deep is because all the oxygen they need is in their blood and their body fat is compressed, allowing them to sink further. Tom noticed that one of the seals had something on its head. He thought it was a growth of some sort but Randy explained that this was an electronic device which is attached to the head to record the depth and duration of dives. When the seal molts, the device falls off and it can be recovered from the beach.
Last look at Ano Nuevo Island as we head back
As we chatted, I noticed several of the larger seals, probably four year old males, started moving towards the water. They sure can move fast for about 20 yards. Suddenly there were about six of them, all heading down the beach. Even Randy did not now why they were all on the move at the same time. Tom surmised it was because the weather had warmed up and they wanted to cool off. I reckoned they had taken bets as to who would reach the water first. I’ve seen a few seals haul themselves out of the ocean and up the beach but this is the first time I’ve seen any making their way into the water.
On the walk back to the parking lot we bypassed the route to South Beach. We walked up a dune and were confronted by a wondrous view all around. The sun had now appeared and the ocean was sparkling. The views in one direction were to the north, out to the west was Ano Nuevo Island and ahead there were views down the coast towards Monterey. We stopped at a convenient bench to admire the view for a few minutes and to bask in the sunshine.
At the end, I took a detour to go to look at what I thought was the Visitor Center but a big sign indicated it was the Marine Education Center and it was closed. I walked behind it to find another couple of buildings. One was the Old Creamery – it also had a sign announcing it was the Ranger Station – and the other was the old horse barn. An information board told me that the Marine Education Center is also the Visitor Center and that originally is was the cow barn when this was a thriving dairy farm called the Steele Ranch.
We made our way back to the car park and to headed to Pescadero for lunch. In Duarte’s we sat at the bar and consumed a marvelous crab sandwich while chatting to our neighbor. It was the end of a perfect day.
June 16 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
June 10, 2010
Young Elephant Seal. I think it's a male. Is he smiling at us?
It was a Friday. Neither Tom or I were working that day so decided to go and see the elephant seals at Ano Nuevo – on the San Mateo coast.
Ano Nuevo is a State Park and the best place to see these unusual seals. They are called elephant seals because the males have long noses which resemble the trunk of an elephant. The males can grow to sixteen feet and weigh two and a half tons – about the size of a Volkswagen Bug. Elephant seals spend most of their lives in the ocean and only come ashore to breed, give birth and molt. Up to the first half of the 19th century, their numbers were prolific but from 1850 onwards they were slaughtered for their blubber. They are absolutely fearless and did not escape to the water when they were being hunted so they were easy prey. Towards the end of the 19th century it was estimated they were only 100 elephant seals left off the coast at Baja, California. In 1922 they became a protected species. Gradually their numbers have increased and the first elephant seal was spotted on Ano Nuevo Island in 1955.
The best time of the year to see the seals is between December and March when the females haul themselves ashore to give birth and the males arrive for the breeding season. During that period, visitors are restricted and reservations have to be made for access to the viewing sites which are led by docents. I have never visited Ano Nuevo at that time and it is on my wish list. The trouble is that the weekends get very booked up and as the weather is unpredictable it is always a gamble to book ahead. Tom has been during the winter and he said the sight of males fighting to protect their harem was amazing.
Back to this visit. The sun was shining and it promised to be a lovely day. We set off at 7 am and headed for the Santa Cruz mountains. As we got close to the summit, what did we see in front of us? Fog! The Santa Clara valley was bathed in sunshine behind us but as we descended towards Santa Cruz the temperature and visibility plunged.
Tom had scoped out a couple of possible destinations for breakfast but as neither opened until 8 am we had twenty minutes to kill. We drove along West Cliff Drive and found a parking spot overlooking the beach, wharf and boardwalk. Outside the car it was chilly but Tom went for a stroll.
Path out to Ano Nuevo. Looking back towards the visitors center. We're about half way there.
After a wonderful breakfast at The Samba Rock Acai Cafe in Santa Cruz we found our way to Highway 1 North and headed out of town. As it was a working day and just before 9 am, the traffic was heavy in town but once we were past the outskirts, with the ocean off to our left, there were less cars about. The sun was still not visible but we had high hopes that it would appear and burn off the fog or maybe the sky will be clearer further north.
The hills were still very green. Normally at this time of the year they would be starting to turn yellow before donning their summer hue of brown – sorry – gold. We have the recent rains to thank for that. We noticed how much more water there was in the Lexington Reservoir in Los Gatos on our journey through the mountains this morning.
North of Davenport patches of blue skies were spotted and occasionally the sun shone through. By the time we turned in the Ano Nuevo State Park the sun had disappeared again.
The park opens at 8 am and there is a $10 entrance fee. We were handed a map and drove on to the car park. Here there are picnic tables and restrooms. When we got out of the car it was chilly and I was glad I’d brought my sweatshirt.
The trail is called the Ano Nuevo Point Trail and it is easy to find. We set off down a gravel path and soon came to a fork. Off to the right is the Cove Beach via Pond Loop trail but it is closed at the moment. A sign across the path states that it is closed to protect natural resources and for the safety of the public.
Right on the fork is displayed part of an old wooden steam sailing schooner called Point Arena which sunk while unloading tanbark at Pigeon Point Light House in 1913. A five ton section of the ship washed ashore at Ano Nuevo and was uncovered by a storm in 1983. An information board nearby listed 19 shipwrecks that had occurred between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo from 1853-1953.
As we continued on down the trail, we could see Ano Nuevo Island offshore. 200 years ago it was attached to the mainland. In 1872 a light house was built on the island because of the number of shipwrecks. Maintaining the light house and the houses built to accommodate the light house keeper and his assistant was difficult, due to the constant onslaught by weather and the invasion of seals, sea lions and birds. In 1948 a marker buoy with an automatic light, sound and radar reflector was installed just offshore from the island. The light house is now closed to the public and the birds and sea mammals have completely overrun the buildings and they are rapidly deteriorating.
To be continued
June 10 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
June 4, 2010
Now for a completely different experience. The Samba Rock Acai Cafe on Water Street looks unimpressive from outside, apart from the bright green and yellow mural on the wall.
At first glance the inside appears extremely basic. The floor is unpainted concrete and the walls and ceiling are painted bright red and are covered in large, unpainted plywood in a mutlitude of shapes and sizes. Just inside is a large area to park your bicycle. Along one wall there was an uncushioned wooden bench. The tables were attached to the floor on a concrete block. Do you get the picture? But there is a great sense of happy-go-lucky, take us as you find us ambience about the place and before long we could see the beauty of our surroundings.
We were the very first customers and were warmly welcomed. The first question we were asked was whether we had ever had acai before. Of course neither of us had and I had never heard the word before and had no idea what it was. It was explained to us that acai is a berry which looks like a large blueberry but with a big pit inside and is found only in South America, especially in the swamps and floodplains along the Amazon. At Samba Rock Acai Cafe they buy frozen acai pulp as the base for their acai bowls.
Up on the wall was a list of the various combinations of acai bowls they serve, along with smoothies and yerba mate (what ever that is). Tom chose the Pele (after the Brazilian soccer player) in a regular size bowl for $8.22 whilst I went for the Mutantes (crazy Brazilian band from the 60′s and 70′s) regular bowl for $7.76. The coffee came in a very large mug.
We sat at a table and while I waited I checked the place out. Up above Tom’s head was the name of the cafe and underneath the phonetic pronounciation of acai (ah-sigh-ee). Several green potted plants were suspended from the ceiling and two vases of flowers and a potted orchid were on the counter. There were four photos on the walls and the only other adornment were a variety of posters advertising events and services which summed up the whole essence of Santa Cruz.
Our food was served in large bowls and it did look very attractive. On the bottom was the acai pulp, then came a layer of granola and on top of that the fruit we had requested. Pele was blueberries, bananas and strawberries and the Mutantes had pineapple, banana and coconut flakes. It was wonderful. The acai itself was very cold and had an interesting taste. The combination worked very well together.
By the time we had finished there were quite a few customers and they were very cheerful and friendly. One guy stopped and asked what we thought of acai and we chatted for several minutes. He is a real fan of acai. Apart from the portion he had eaten, he was taking another bowl with him and would eat it as he rode his bike hands free.
When I went to the restroom it was locked and waited outside for a few minutes. Then I thought that maybe one had to ask for a key to use the restroom and this turned out to be the case. The key is fixed to a hula hoop on the wall by the counter. Inside the restroom the walls were bare but as one wall was green, one blue, one yellow and the other neutral it didn’t seem to water. The facilities were OK and the water was hot.
Tom and I will certainly come back here again and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. We want to try all the different combinations of acai bowls.
Of course when I got home I checked online to get more information about acai. There is no doubt that it has a lot of good qualities but there are some wild claims out there that amongst other things, this is a superfood which can reverse diabeties and help you lose weight. I’ll wait for the scientific reports until I decide one way or the other. I also found out that yerba mate is a species of holly found in South America. The dry leaves and twigs are steeped in hot water and it tastes a bit like green tea.
Samba Rock Acai Cafe
291 Water St
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
June 04 2010 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
May 31, 2010
Rodeo Beach
After breakfast in Sausalito we headed back the way we came towards Point Bonita Lighthouse . This lighthouse stands at the entrance to San Francisco Bay, west of the Golden Gate Bridge. It is only open to the public of Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays from 12.30 – 3.30.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Part of the pleasure of going to this lighthouse is the drive along Conzalman Road to it. Once past Battery Spencer and Hawk Hill, the road becomes one way. Up to this point the views of the bridge, the city and the bay have been wonderful. After this point the views are still spectacular, looking towards the lighthouse and the ocean but the road itself becomes a roller coaster ride. Today though we were out of luck as the one way road was closed. We could see construction work and earth moving vehicles on the road ahead and surmised the recent rains had caused a landslide. There was a detour pointing off to the right to the lighthouse and beach. This route took us past the Marin Headlands Visitor Center and the Nike Missile Site. We also had a good view down to Rodeo Beach.
As we were very early and had time to kill, we drove past the lighthouse and Battery Mendell to the end of the road. Here the road dead ended in a car park with lovely views. To the south we could see the lighthouse and part of the suspension bridge leading to it. Just below us was Bird Island. It is separated from the mainland by a narrow strip of water and is a haven for seabirds especially corm0rants. The top is more or less flat and looks white in color but that is due to the guano which covers it. We could also see the stretch of sand which is Rodeo Beach with its cool lagoon behind.
I found a rather uncomfortable rock to sit on while I did some writing. Every so often I glanced out to sea in the hope of spotting some whales but was out of luck. The sun was shining but hazy offshore which meant we could not see the Farallon Islands today. There was also a bit of a breeze and as I did not have my sweater on I could not stand it for long. There is no protection here from the elements.
We drove back to Point Bonita lighthouse and parked the car. It was still half an hour before the lighthouse opened but already there were quite a few cars around. There is a half mile trail to the lighthouse which was open but only so far. To get all the way to the lighthouse there is a tunnel to walk through and that is kept locked until 12.30.
Instead of waiting in the car, we decided to amble on down the trail. Although the trail is short it is quite steep in parts. All the way along we had good views of the Golden Gate Bridge to the east. There were a few information boards along the way, mostly about the harbor seals which haul themselves out of the ocean onto the rocks and tiny strips of beach down below. There were warnings to stay at least 300 feet from them but you would have to go off the trail and clamber down steep dangerous cliffs to get anywhere near them. We did see a few trying to haul themselves onto the beach. The tide swept them in but then dragged them out to sea again. After a few tries, they eventually managed to get above the high water mark for a well earned rest.
At several spots the trail was just a rock bridge with the bay on one side and the ocean on the other. The waves are slowly eroding the rocks away and one day Point Bonita will be an island. Just before the tunnel we could see the remains of a slipway which was used for a lifeboat. It has obviously not been used for long time.
Once we reached the tunnel we could go no further so we walked part way up the path again to a bench where we plonked ourselves down to wait. Out on the water were several boats including a tug boat which did not move for a long time. Eventually we saw a ship being towed towards the bridge. It looked like a submarine but we were not too sure. The tug boat was obviously waiting to escort it into the bay.
Point Bonita Lighthouse and the only way to it.
At 12.30 we saw a park ranger walk down the path to unlock the door to the tunnel. By this time there were a lot of people waiting so we took our place in the line. The heavy green metal door was unlocked and we started to move towards the entrance. The tunnel is narrow and not very high and has been carved out of solid rock. Inside there are no lights but as it is relatively short we were not in the dark for long. On the other side of the tunnel the path is very narrow with a sheer rock wall on one side. Amazingly the cliffs were ablaze with all manner of wildflowers.
Ahead we saw the last barrier to the lighthouse – the suspension bridge. Neither Tom nor I have a head for heights and crossing the bridge will be a challenge. As we got closer we could see that the bridge was old and rusty which was not very encouraging. Only two people could walk across at a time which caused us some anxiety but we have come this far and will see it through. A ranger stood at each end of the bridge to regulate the number of people crossing. A sign nearby said the bridge was due to be replaced soon.
When Tom and I were next in line we had to wait for several people to cross back to our side and we chatted to the ranger. She told us the bridge was built in 1954. During our conversation with her she mentioned that the work on repairing the road would have to be finished before the bridge could be replaced. Now we know that the road closure was planned and not due to a landslide.
It was our turn to cross. Tom went in front and I followed. To keep my mind off what was below I concentrated on taking a video of the crossing on my Flip video camcorder. The crossing was OK until about the middle then it became scary because everything started to sway. I blindly followed Tom wishing that we would get there in one piece. Safely on the other side we took a deep breath and then started to worry about the walk back.
Originally the lighthouse was built further back and 0n top of a 300 foot cliff in 1855. It was soon realized that it was too high. Nobody had taken into account that when the fog rolled in the light could not be seen. A new location at the end of the point was chosen and in 1877 it was in operation. In addition to the light, a cannon was used as a fog horn and every half and hour during foggy weather the gun would be fired.
The lighthouse stands on a very small piece of rock and it took only a few minutes to walk round the base. I would have liked to spend some time just looking out at the view but there was no seat to sit on and, though the sun was shining, there was no shelter from the chilly wind. Several small rooms at the base of the lighthouse have been turned into a museum and it was fascinating to read the history of the lighthouse. There was a large map on the wall which showed the location of all the shipwrecks in the area, including the worst disaster of all in 1901. The steamer ‘City of Rio de Janeiro’ sunk near Point Bonita with the loss of all 128 passengers and crew.
It was time to face the suspension bridge again. Once again we had to wait before Tom and I could cross and the ranger told us that down below was an archway through the rock. The best place to see it is half way across the bridge. There was no way either of us was going to stop on the bridge to look down at it! As you can see from the photo above, Tom got a good shot of it from the other side.
We climbed leisurely back up the trail and through the tunnel, reminiscing about all we have seen today. It has been an exciting and interesting day.
May 31 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
May 22, 2010
One of these guys won
The Bay to Breakers is the quintessential San Francisco event of the year. You want to know what San Franciscans are like – come watch Bay to Breakers on the third Sunday in May. A complete cross section of the community lets their hair down and has fun. It is called Bay to Breakers because it starts at the Bay on the east and finishes at the ocean on the west. The course is 7.46 miles (12 kilometers) and has the grueling climb up Hayes Street Hill at about the 2.5 mile mark.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
The event started in 1912 and has been run every year since then making this the 99th year and is the longest held consecutively run footrace in the world. It was started as a way to boost morale in the city after the 1906 earthquake and over the years it has evolved. Women did not take part in the early days and it wasn’t until the 1960′s that they could officially register. Now there are several distinct groups which take part, seeded and non-seeded runners, centipedes and floats. Additionally a lot of the participants run in costume and some are naked.
First of the centipedes to come through
After our disappointing breakfast at Joe’s Cafe on Geary Blvd, we headed back towards Golden Gate Park and parked on 7th Avenue. From there it was a short walk to the park. Once inside we headed towards the Conservatory of Flowers on John F. Kennedy Drive, passing an area where aficionados of Tai Chi were meeting and greeting before starting their routine. One curiosity I noticed along the way, a fallen log had been adapted to look like a crocodile complete with a piece of yellow police tape tied round its neck.
Bay to Breakers starts at 8 am. This year there were expected to be 60,000 taking part. They all start at the same time with the seeded and sub seeded runners in the front, with the rest of the pack at the back. The floats bring up the rear. We arrived just after 8 so the first runners were already well on their way. There were quite a few people lining the route and a group of slow moving police motor cyclists were driving by. We took up our position looking up at the beautiful Conservatory of Flowers on the other side of the road.
Some Brits perhaps?
Last year there were a lot of complaints from residents about the behavior of some participants and spectators; drunkenness and rowdiness being the main complaints. The rules have been tightened up and both police and race officials would crack down on any such wrong doers.
The weather at this time of the year is usually warm and sometimes very hot indeed. Not so this year. The sky was overcast and it was decidedly chilly. I was glad I had my sweatshirt with me.
The road was completely clear and then just after 8.15 we spotted three cars driving slowly towards us. As the cars drew level we spied the first runner – a woman. Couldn’t see her number because the cars hid most of her. Several other women were just behind. Of course I was expecting a man to be first but then concluded that the seeded women runners started before the men. Not long afterwards the first two men passed next and neck. They were dressed identically and their numbers were 21 and 24. I’m sure one of them was the winner – Sammy Kirop Kitwara from Kenya in 34 minutes and 15 seconds. He won last year as well. Lineth Chepkururi was the first woman to cross the finish line and she was also from Kenya.
More and more runners passed us, some of them in costume. Then the first centipede approached. A centipede is a group of 13 runners connected by a rope. The lead centipede was three deep. An additional runner, who is not attached, runs alongside shouting out instructions. At the point they passed us the additional runner was barking out frantic instructions. Just ahead were three photographers standing on step ladders stretched all across the road and getting the centipede to pass between two step ladders whilst maintaining their speed and momentum was a tricky maneuver.
Then the first naked runner streaked past. He was a serious runner and was hell bent on being the first one in that category to finish. He wore
Some folks wore costumes. Others not so much.
running shoes and carried his bunched up shorts in his hand. I guess they have to be wearing at least shorts when they cross the line.
I expect total nudity on a public street doesn’t happen in too many cities and normally of course it would not be allowed here but Bay to Breakers is a San Francisan tradition. I remember the first time Tom took me to Bay to Breakers a couple of years after I moved here, probably in 2003. Having led a sheltered existence in chilly England, I was just not expecting to see total nudity. On that occasion I was surprised when I saw my first naked runner. I thought I was seeing things. Of course Tom was waiting to see my reaction and I tried hard to act as if it was no big deal. As more and more liberated people passed me by the novelty wore off and to be truthful the many and varied costumes all around were far more interesting to look at.
On that first occasion, it was a very warm day and there seemed to be a lot of naked runners. This year it was cold and I did not think there were quite so many people in the buff. Maybe the weather did have something to do with it. One couple looked a bit odd because they were nude apart from the jackets they wore on their top halves to keep them warm.
There were a lot of joggers, most of them in costume but the biggest group were the walkers – those just taking part and having fun. I did notice that there were a lot of people walking the route who did not have official numbers on them. Maybe they didn’t register and just thought they would join in.
All kinds of costumes
The main attraction had to be the wonderful assortment of costumes. I saw lots of people in full body suits including bunnies, monsters, roman soldiers and a square pants sponge bob. There were lots of super heroes, cavemen, hula skirts complete with coconut bras, clowns, brides, prom dresses, night attire, men dressed as women, women dressed as men and Elvis was very much alive. There was one group dressed as bananas and another of whoopee cushions. Some people did not go for full costumes but donned wigs, dress suits or tutus.
Just along from us was a huge banner proclaiming ‘Fear God’ and a guy with a microphone preaching to the competitors. The serious runners completely ignored him, the less serious runners paid him scant attention but lots of them showed their displeasure by shouting back or gesticulating. Several people mooned him but he carried on regardless, regaling everybody with doom and gloom.
The onlookers lining the route gave lots of support and encouragement to the runners, joggers and walkers and there was interaction between all people. For instance I was wearing my University of Oregon sweatshirt and many people shouted out ‘Go Ducks’ or gave me the big O. Everybody was happy and were thoroughly enjoying themselves. I read afterwards that there were many reports of people getting drunk but we certainly didn’t see any evidence of that.
I say everybody was happy but there was one guy who left a bad taste in everybody’s mouth who heard him rant at rave at a security guy. He was not a participant in the race but an onlooker but he sure had a problem and was definitely in need of an anger management course. The security guy did not rise to the bait and deserves praise for remaining calm the whole time.
We stayed until just after 11 and still the walkers were passing. I did notice that some people were walking back through the crowd. Maybe they were going back to the start to where their cars were parked. I heard someone refer to them as ‘spawning salmon’ which I thought was very apt.
On our way back to the car we did notice that one group of onlookers had thoroughly made themselves at home by bringing their couch with them. We were pleased when we finally reached the car to get the chance to warm up before driving home.
May 22 2010 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | 3 Comments »
May 19, 2010
The Lighthouse Cafe in Sausalito
The Lighthouse Cafe is just beyond the downtown section of Sausalito on Bridgeway and almost next to where I did my weekend course in February. We parked at a meter in the front where, fortunately, 47 minutes remained on the clock.
The cafe is tiny but bright and cheerful. A model of the top of a lighthouse is on the second floor balcony with two blue chairs beside it so it is easy to spot as you are driving past.
Inside it was full but as there are only 5 four seater booths and 9 stools at the counter, it was not surprising. You have to wait to be seated. The tiny spot just inside the door is the waiting area. We were second in line but the wait was not long at all. It gave me time enough to look around the place.
There was a specials board and Tom had already chosen what he wanted – hot link sausage scrambled with bell peppers, onions, spinach, eggs and cheddar cheese ($5.95).
A couple of posters were displayed on the wall but I couldn’t read the writing and wondered in what language it was written. I surmised it was a Scandinavian language but decided to ask when we ordered. There were a couple of black and white photos of lighthouses over the door and a panoramic view of the Golden Gate Bridge with the Point Bonita lighthouse,which we will be visiting later this morning, in the foreground. A colorful geometric painting of a lighthouse hung next to the photographs. The numbers of a clock on the far wall were different pictures of lighthouses.
When I looked at the menu it became obvious which Scandinavian language it was because several of the dishes had Danish in the title. Tom ordered the special but there was no oatmeal for me. So what did I go for instead? Would you believe a large mixed fruit pancake? The server said they were awesome so I thought I would try one ($4.50). The coffee was $2.15.
The restroom was unisex, very small and basic, with a small wooden framed mirror. There was a large cupboard set in the wall and, being nosy, I had to check it out. Inside was just a meter. Serves you right Margaret.
Tom really enjoyed his scramble. There was lot of hot spicy sausage plus they had his favorite Pepper Plant hot sauce (much better than Tabasco Tom informs me). My pancake was large and scrummy. Inside were banana, blueberries and raspberries. A pat of butter was slowly melting on top so I slathered it over the pancake and poured a generous portion of syrup on top. All those calories but who cares. After that long hike to Kirby Cove and back I deserved it.
We both heartily recommend the Lighthouse Cafe and will definitely come again.
The Lighthouse Cafe
1311 Bridgeway Avenue
Sausalito, CA 94965
May 19 2010 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
May 13, 2010
The Golden Gate Bridge taken from the usually crowded vista point
One of our favorite places to take photos of the Golden Gate Bridge is the overlook at Battery Spencer. Nearby there is a trail head and I often wondered where it led to. I decided to do some research on the Marin headlands and eventually found a trail map. I discovered the trail lead to Kirby Cove. We promised ourselves that one day we would check it out. That day was today.
Check out the Google map at the end of this post to get an idea where Kirby Cove beach is. The trail head is off that winding road up the hill.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
As usual we left before day break.When it began to get light, the sky was overcast with no sun visible at all. We hoped the weather would improve. Driving north on 19th Avenue in San Francisco we would normally see the southern tower of the bridge but not today. We wondered whether we would even be able to see the bridge from the beach but a plan was a plan.
I read a description of the trail before we left home and it sounded a bit daunting. To get to the beach is a steep one mile hike so obviously to get back up again is a very steep one mile climb, but we were up for it.
Oakland, on the other side of the bay, was hidden by fog as we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz was hardly visible. We pulled into the vista point on the right at the end of the bridge. This place gets really crowded at weekends and even though there are lots of parking spaces they would all be filled in a few hours time. Now, at 7 o’clock in the morning, we have the place more or less to ourselves and, surprise, surprise, the sun was beginning to shine through the cloud cover. Maybe it will be a nice day after all.
Tom went a little way over the bridge to take photos and I wandered around the sidewalk. On my very first visit to California in January 1998, I was brought here straight from the plane. At that time, I was overwhelmed by the view of both the bridge and the city by the bay and today, 12 years later, I felt the same way.
The layout of the vista point has changed a little since that visit. Now there are more information boards and direction finders. I noticed a bronze statue on the island in the middle of the car park, so I went to investigate. It was of a sailor standing next to his kit bag. Nearby was a plaque commemorating all the sailors who passed this point on their way to serve their country, some of whom never returned. Reading the words brought a lump to my throat and tears to my eyes. The statue reminded me of my father who was in the Royal Navy and served for 22 years. He was shipwrecked twice in the Second World War but thankfully survived both and lived to the ripe old age of 86.
The eucalyptus trees smell wonderful but really don't belong here
From the vista point car park, we drove a short distance to the Sausalito exit and then turned left to cross back under the freeway and headed to the Marin headlands. We parked by Battery Spencer and the trail head down to Kirby Cove was a few steps away.
At 7.30 we started walking down. There was a gate across the trail but it was easy to walk around. The trail itself is a gravel road. To the left of the road is a steep grassy slope down to the water. A small, and I’m sure inaccessible, beach is visible at the bottom. There is also a view of the bridge.
It was a lovely walk down. The trail turned inland and the bridge disappeared from view. Wildflowers abounded, some clinging to the rocks and others lining the path. Birdsong was all about and it was very peaceful. At first there was nobody else on the path, then we heard voices. Behind us another couple were walking down the trail and they had a dog with them. By the gate at the top of the trail was a sign saying bicycles were allowed but not pets or dogs.
We walked through a grove of eucalyptus trees. Apart from being non native, these trees are also very untidy. Their bark hangs down in strips looking as if they are shedding their skin – which in a sense they are of course. The ground is littered with their debris, including large boughs which have fallen off. The only positive aspect is the wonderful smell of them. Close your eyes and you can immediately tell that you are surrounded by eucalyptus trees.
Near the bottom we passed a whole array of large and majestic calla lilies. A couple of weeks ago they would have been in their full glory. Now they are beginning to go brown at the edges and to be a little wilted but still glorious none the less.
We passed a parking lot for the overnight campers. Here is one of a very few places where you can get a permit to camp on the Marin Headlands. Now the pervading smell is of woodsmoke and the sound of the breaking surf is added to the birdsong.
Kirby Cove Beach
After a leisurely half an hour walk, with numerous stops to take photos, we arrived at the Kirby Cove beach. Right above the beach is the old Battery Kirby. It was built in 1894 and decommissioned in 1934. I imagine it would be a fun place for kids to explore. From here you look down on the dark gray, gritty looking sand. On the grass at the top of the bluff, a lone Canada Goose sat looking out over the bay and a solitary fisherman stood knee deep in the surf. The bridge looked very close and imposing. This is a completely different view of it. There can’t be too many angles now we have not viewed the bridge but from every one it still looks wonderful.
We walked down onto the beach and I sat on an old wooden pontoon with extremely rusty ironwork and wrote in my journal. The sun felt warm and I would have happily sat there for ages but we had to move because the tide seemed to be coming in. We walked up to the picnic tables on the bluffs at the other end of the beach and watched the boats and one very large container ship exit the bay under the bridge.
At 9 am, we started our climb back up the trail. Our sudden movement disturbed a rabbit which bounded alongside the trail in front of me. It took us half an hour to climb up which I thought was pretty remarkable. We only stopped twice for a breather. At one point we watched 13 kayakers propel themselves across the bay and we wondered whether they were making their way to Kirby Cove. We passed nobody on the way up and yet there were loads of cars parked at the top. Not that we were complaining as we much prefer the peace and quiet of our own company.
Time to head into Sausalito for breakfast.
Here’s where Kirby Cove is:
May 13 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
May 9, 2010
San Juan Grade road heading down towards Salinas
We decided to take a drive to Salinas today. Instead of taking 101, we drove down Monterey Road all the way to Gilroy. Now Monterey Road can be a bit of a pain, but early in the morning, with the lights mostly in our favor, it was a pleasure to drive along. Admittedly the road is a bit rough in places but there was a lot of things to catch our eye.
At first, it was urban sprawl but before long we were driving through the countryside and although 101 was close by, it seemed a million miles away. Tom said that back in the late fifties and early sixties most main roads in the valley were like this. Along the way we passed a few orchards and lots of businesses associated with farming.
Driving through Morgan Hill we were on the look out for somewhere for breakfast but were unsuccessful. Morgan Hill looks an interesting little place and the hill itself stands sentinel over the town. Must check to see whether there is a way to get to the top.
South of Morgan Hill we passed several properties which intrigued us. One was obviously some sort of attraction for children as there was a sign which said ‘Pumpkinville Railroad’. Of course I checked online when I got home and discovered it was a huge pumpkin patch which is only open during October every year. It is situated at Uesugi Farms. The other place had a couple of wooden archways, an old tractor and other assorted antique machinery in its grounds.
After breakfast we hit 101 down to Highway 156. It seemed strange not to turn left into San Juan Bautista. Instead we turned right at the first traffic signal and took the back road to Salinas.
We took the same route which we took in January this year when we visited Dimitri and Kitty Fridman. Their coffee shop in San Juan, which will be called Vertigo, is not quite open yet. They have been held up for floor problems but hopefully it won’t be long before we will be able to pop in there and say hi.
The road we traveled on is called San Juan Grade Road according to my map but we saw no signs at all en route. We passed through green pastures
Typical peaceful scene on the back road to Salinas
and ranches with cows and horses grazing. One ranch had cattle that looked like Texas Longhorns.
When we started to climb up hill the views opened out and we looked down on a large housing development. Tom commented on how old the road was. He could tell because of the concrete sections between the many patches of tarmac here and there. Lo and behold a vintage Model T appeared around a bend ahead of us and drove by. An elderly couple were inside. It was if we were back in the ‘good old days’. The moment passed very quickly. It would have been a great photo to capture but of course Tom was driving and his camera was in the trunk.
It is beautiful countryside. Rolling green hills, some heavily wooded, rise and dip all around. Occasionally there is an outcrop of rock. Red wing blackbirds are busy and their song fills the air. Wildflowers are in bloom along the edge of the road. Tom stopped several times to take photos.
The road twisted and turned, rose and fell, for several miles. At one point we turned a corner and suddenly there was a distant view of Salinas nestled in its own valley. If it had been a clear day, we would have been able to see the ocean as well. The sun attempted to shine but it was still a bit hazy.
There was a roadside sign saying this is the Juan Bautista de Anza Historic Highway. Juan Bautista de Anza was a lieutenant-colonel in the New Spanish army and found the overland route to San Francisco in 1776, presumably riding along this very road. At this point, a whole procession of old Ford cars and one truck passed by. A lot of the cars were well preserved ’67 Mustangs. We concluded there must be a meet somewhere for vintage and classic Fords.
Tom spotted another historic landmark. This time it was a bronze plaque marking the site of the Battle of Natividad in November 1846 between combined American forces and the Californians.
Now we were down into the Salinas valley and passing both houses and crops. The houses were on one side and fields of lettuce and strawberries on the other. As we did not want to drive into Salinas, we turned left on Borondada Road and skirted around the top of the town, turning left on Natividad Road and further on another left onto Old Stage Road. This eventually brought us back to San Juan Grade Road and we headed back the way we came into San Juan Bautista.
May 09 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
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