We set out just before 6 while it was still dark. There is just something about being on the road while most people are still fast asleep. To watch the scenery unfold slowly as the sun rises is awesome. First you see the tops of the hills appear as the sky lightens. Then the trees stand out as silhouettes. Finally everything is visible and then the sun appears in all its majesty. It is going to be a beautiful day.
We are headed for a beautiful part of the California coast - Big Sur. When I knew I was coming to California for the first time just over ten years ago, the item on the top of my itinerary was to drive south on Highway 1 from Carmel to Los Angeles. Our first stop today is in Carmel for breakfast - see previous entry.
There is no denying that Carmel is a pretty town. Some of the buildings are unique. Take the Tuck Box on Dolores Street. It looks like something out of a fairy tale. Back in the 60’s, when Tom was stationed at nearby Fort Ord, he would come here for breakfast sometimes. It is still there and they serve not only breakfast but lunch and afternoon tea (very English). Next time we are in Carmel, we will come here for breakfast.
Driving through downtown Carmel at 8 a.m. in the morning is a real pleasure. Admittedly none of the shops are open but you do get to appreciate the layout of the place and how well maintained it is. Later on today it will be swarming with tourists and it will be difficult to find anywhere to park.
We decide to pay a visit to Carmel Beach. I have never been to this part before. Just head on down Ocean Street and there is a small car park at the end. It is a very nice beach, sandy and clean. There were a lot of dogs with their owners, joggers and couples walking hand in hand. This is a very romantic place to be.
Soon we are heading back to Highway 1 and on our journey to Big Sur. Now Big Sur is not one
single destination but a 50 mile stretch of the best views imaginable of the Californian Coast. There are several State Parks dotted along the coast - Point Lobos just south of Carmel, Garrapata a bit further along, then Andrew Molera, Pfeiffer Big Sur and finally Julia Pfeiffer Burns. There are a lot of places to park along the way but they are just dirt pull outs and a couple of vista points. These get really crowded later in the day. If you see cars parked at the side of the road then you can safely assume this is a good spot to pull over and maybe even find a trail down to the sea. For a guide to locations to stop at check out this website - ‘A Guide to California’s Big Sur‘.
The road is a two lane highway which hugs the curves and climbs and ascends like a ride in a theme park. Today the views are spectacular with no fog at all. Just south of Carmel there is a signpost which warns that there are hills and curves for the next 63 miles.
I kept my eyes peeled for whales, watching out for spouts of water far out to sea which look like puffs of smoke. At this time of the year the males are returning to Alaska after spending the winter in the Sea of Cortez down in Baja California. They are closer to shore than on the southerly migration. In a few weeks the females and their calves will be passing and they will be even closer to the shore.
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March 04 2008 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
We are on our way to the Big Sur coast. Yesterday I looked online to see what was available for breakfast in Carmel. This place had good reviews so that is why we are here. It is open seven days a week from 7 a.m. and we rolled up just as it opened.
From the outside it looks pretty and upscale, as do most places in Carmel. Overlooking the street is a deck with tables and chairs but today is too cold to contemplate that. Later in the day I’m sure that is the place to see and be seen.
So we opted for inside. The entrance is at the side which is a bit confusing. There was a guy sweeping up and Tom asked him if there was anywhere to buy a newspaper. He pointed out a newsstand a few feet away but it was hidden from sight. Also outside are benches, magazines, noticeboards and a huge coffee dispenser which I am sure will all be needed later on when it gets busy.
Inside it is not very big and the tables are small. It seats just 50 with 6 seats at the counter plus about 20 outside. There are no booths. There were only three other customers but our server appeared rushed and was not very friendly.
The menu is huge and the choice vast. I checked out the oatmeal straight away and, guess what, they serve steel cut oatmeal. My prayers have been answered. The prices are pretty steep but, hey, this is Carmel. The oatmal was $8.50 but if comes with toast. I also ordered a side of fruit which was a hefty $2.95. Tom ordered a Joe’s Special which was $12.95. He also had coffee which was $2.95. I stayed with the water, which was free.
The decor is very good and pleasing to the eye. Lots of nice pictures on the walls. Near where we sat were some old adverts for Sunkist lemons and various other food items. The windows have well tended window boxes on the outside.
We didn’t have long to wait for the food. Mine came on a huge oval plate with a large, shallow dish filled with oatmeal. Also crammed on the plate were two small plastic pots - one with sugar and one with butter, a good sized stainless jug of low fat milk (I was asked which milk I would like), 4 half slices of unbuttered wheat toast (my request) and a fair sized ceramic bowl holding the fruit. The oatmeal was good but less nutty than what I make at home. I’m not complaining though because at least it is steel cut. The fruit was great - blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and slices of strawberries. I asked Tom what he thought of his and he said ‘OK’. He was not impressed with the coffee though.
I was not disappointed with the restroom. There were two unisex restrooms but I only checked out one. It was the best I have used for some time. Clean, bright, big, well-equipped and sweet smelling. There was a lace curtain at the window and nice prints on the walls. The water was good and hot.
Our verdict - very expensive and not really worth the extra even taking into account Carmel prices but the place is nice and well appointed.
March 02 2008 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
We set out just before 6 while it was still dark. There is just something about being on the road while most people are still fast asleep. To watch the scenery unfold slowly as the sun rises is awesome. First you see the tops of the hills appear as the sky lightens. Then the trees stand out as silhouettes. Finally everything is visible and then the sun appears in all its majesty. It is going to be a beautiful day.
single destination but a 50 mile stretch of the best views imaginable of the 
