View of lower part of Tamales Bay
We had a nice early start with a stop at Peet’s on Geary in the city for our wake-up beverage. North of the Golden Gate Bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd towards Point Reyes. The views after driving through Fairfax were really pretty, especially with the sun just starting to lighten the sky. Along the sides of the road wildflowers were beginning to appear. The hills are still winter green and everything looks fresh.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Just before San Geronimo, I noticed some hand painted signs on my left. Some were advertising a country dance, which was held last night. One said ‘Fiddle music makes you smile’. How charming. There were other signs inter mingled with those and I got the message that someone is not too happy about a tank tearing up the ridge. The last one said ‘Thanks, but not no tank’. Hey, this is Marin County so it goes with the territory.
At Olema, we turned right on Highway 1 and then left onto Bear Creek Road. We drove past the Visitors Center and then turned left again onto Limantour Road. Neither Tom nor I have been here before, so this will be a new experience for us.
There is nobody else around at all. We have the road to ourselves. And what a drive. Quail were abundant and darted across the road, with their necks outstretched and their fussy little steps. We stop at a lay-by with a view down to the south end of Tomales Bay.
We passed Sky Trailhead and there were some cars already parked. A little further on we had a spectacular view to the south. On the ridge we
Margaret writing. We were the only folks there.
could see some of the damage caused by the Inverness Ridge Fire 14 years ago but the forest is regenerating. Next we caught sight of Drakes Bay to the north.
The road dead ends in a large car park. There was just one other car there. As we got out of the car, we felt the bite of the wind but we had come prepared with our fleeces.
At the start of the trail, there is a noticeboard with information about the Coastal Watershed Restoration Project. Before the Point Reyes National Seashore was established. Limantour beach was privately owned and there were 20 homes there. Now it is being restored to its natural estuarine habitat and endangered species, like the California red legged frog, will be protected.
We follow the trail towards the beach, walking over a fairly new bridge. The trail then bears right but we decided to investigate the beach before heading down the trail. The path was sandy and crested a low rise range of sand dunes and then we were on the beach. And what a splendid beach – long, sandy and clean. The wind was a little fresh but the sun was shining. We were the only people on the beach and the only footsteps were ours. It was so peaceful to sit on a convenient driftwood log and write, with the soothing sounds of the gentle breaking surf.
Limantour Beach and the cliffs that reminded Sir Francis Drake of the White Cliffs of Dover.
Away to our right the pseudo white cliffs of Dover marched towards the lighthouse, which we couldn’t see because it was around the corner. No wonder Sir Francis Drake was reminded of England when he saw the cliffs. This is definitely the place to bring the kids but, be warned, there are no fast food restaurants or ice cream stands for miles and miles.
Back on the trail, we were on the look out for wildflower but we were almost out of luck. There were some wild iris’s but they were past their best and the lupine bushes were on the verge of blooming.
The trail is along the Limantour Spit. To the right is a marsh with a host of sea and shore birds. To our left are the dunes. The ocean can also be seen but not the beach.
A hawk suddenly flew over my head but I did not have time to identify it through my binoculars before it dipped out of view again. Tom was not able to get a shot of it either.
The trail became narrow and the marsh grass was partially covering the path. The fresh wind whipped the grass against my legs. I could feel the
The Marsh Hawk we saw several times that day
sting of it through my my thin pants. I thought it was just me but Tom commented on it too.
The trail peters out though I am sure it is possible to get right to the end. We did detour down towards the marsh on what I think was an unofficial rail but did not venture too far in case it became boggy.
We turned to go back and gloried in the absolute solitude of the place. Far from the sound of traffic with not even the vapor trail of a passing aircraft to mar the blue sky. Then we spotted the hawk again and Tom took some photos – hope they come out OK. I identified it as a Marsh Hawk.
After our bracing walk and all that fresh air, we were ready for breakfast.
April 07 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
Solitary surfer at Moss Landing State Beach
It was just after 8 a.m. when we hit Highway 1 heading south from Santa Cruz. We were later than normal but it made a change for me because I saw more of the scenery coming over the Santa Cruz Mountains.
This section of Highway 1 is not so pretty as driving north from Santa Cruz and there are certainly more cars on the road. You don’t catch sight of the ocean until just before the junction with Buena Vista Drive and then it is only a far off glimpse. There are several interesting places to visit along the way, Capitola and the cement ship at Rio del Mar being two of them.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Around Watsonville – the strawberry capital of the world – the landscape is flatter. At the moment there is field after field of young strawberry plants just poking their heads out of plastic sheeting.
South of Watsonville there is a major blot on the landscape – the Moss Landing Power Plant. The two tall chimneys are the first sign of the monstrosity that soon dominates the scenery. These two chimneys are visible a long way out to sea as I can testify from the couple of whale sighting trips I took from Monterey.
We stopped off at Moss Landing State Beach just because we have never been there before. The parking for it is mostly on the road and the vehicles we saw were obviously owned by surfers as license plates, stickers and spare surfboards both inside and on roof tops proclaimed. To get to the beach, there is a sandy rise over the dunes before the ocean came into sight. The day was chilly but not cold and the only people we saw were the black blobs on surf boards. The beach is spectacularly uninteresting with bird feathers, bits of dried seaweed and the odd seagull or two to detract from the view of the long sandy beach. It is obviously a favorite haunt of surfers though. We stood and watched the surfers for a bit but there was not a lot of action. I overheard one surfer say that it conditions should improve later on.
Back in the car we took another small detour into Moss Landing itself. We drove past marinas and boat supply outlets before driving through the main street. There was nothing there to tempt us to get out and investigate.
To get to Elkhorn Slough we turned off Highway 1 onto Dolan Road, driving past the power plant. After four miles we
A lonely Lesser Yellowlegs (we think)
turned left on Elkhorn Road. The entrance to Elkhorn Slough is a drive of another four miles or so. We almost passed the entrance but spotted it just in time. It is open Wednesdays to Sundays, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m but is closed the first and third Fridays of each month. There is a day use charge of $2.50 per person.
There were just a few cars in the car park. First stop Visitors Center, where we paid the entrance fee. When I signed the guest log, I noticed that we were the first visitors who had signed in for two days. It is a really nice, informative Visitors Center where they also loan out binoculars. The lady, who we paid the entrance fee to, told us about the docent led early morning bird walking tour on the first Saturday of each month. We asked and were given a trail map which we found extremely helpful. Before you go onto the trail, you have to brush your boots and step into a tray containing disinfectant. They’re trying to protect the Oak trees from a spreading fungus.
We decided to take the South Marsh Loop, taking a detour along the way to Hummingbird Island. The first part of the trail was paved and suitable for wheelchairs. Just after the overlook, the trail descends and becomes rougher. It was an interesting walk, skirting the southern end of South Marsh, though very little seemed to be going on. There were a few birds around, more heard than seen and, apart from a few early wildflowers, there was not much color. The eucalyptus trees were sporting their fluffy white flowers and strange looking seed pods or ‘gumnuts’.
Margaret just off Hummingbird Island
The detour to Hummingbird Island took us over the railroad tracks. We were told to be cautious of trains but everything was clear. Later we did see a train go by so the warning was necessary. The trail took us up a short flight of wooden steps and then we came to a strange sight – a wire cage round a tree stump. We couldn’t work out whether the cage served a useful purpose or if it was an art form and we still don’t know the answer. Up on a slight rise was an unusual water feature. It looked like a small, arched bridge made out of lumps of black lava and oyster shells. The small pond in front contained some straggly pond plants. I couldn’t see any fishes in it, even though I tried very hard. We wandered along a small spit of land with water on either side, trying very hard not to disturb an egret waiting patiently for his lunch. We also saw in the distance another couple walking around the island.
Having completely exhausted the sights on Hummingbird Island, we made our way back across the tracks and continued around the top of South Marsh. Along the way, there was an old barn with a sign over the doorway which proclaimed it to be Elkhorn Farm. Back, I think, in the 1920′s, the marsh was drained and dikes built to provide pasture for the Elkhorn Farm dairy. Then in 1983, when the dairy no longer existed, the dikes were removed and the marsh became tidal again. Now, 20 years later, the barn is the only remaining building of the dairy. It is a large barn with open sides. There are signs outside asking visitors to be quiet so as not to disturb nesting birds. Inside, high up, were two wooden boxes where barn owls raise their young, though at this time of the year there was no activity. There were a few hay bales in the middle of the barn, so we sat a while and soaked in the quietness and solitude of the surroundings. The view through the open sided side was extensive, the only unwelcome sight of course, being the power plant to the west.
Soon we were back at the Visitors Center and time to drive back home. This time we took the scenic route, turning left out of Elkhorn Slough and heading north towards Watsonville along Elkhorn Road. Driving through Pajero brought back memories of the Strawberry Fields Forever charity bike ride we took part in last year. We have signed up again this year but unfortunately we may not be doing it as I have booked a trip to England without checking my calendar. Silly me!! From Watsonville we made our way to Highway 1 north and home.
March 02 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
After eating all those calories in Bucks Cafe, it is time to walk them off.
We arrive at the Old Stage Picnic Area and Trail Head car park on Edgewood Road just after 9 and already it is full. We managed to grab one of the two remaining spaces. As soon as I open the door I hear a woodpecker tapping away but I cannot see it, no matter how hard I try.
Edgewood is managed by San Mateo Parks Department and is a jewel hidden away above Redwood City. It is only 467 acres with five trails, the longest of which is nearly 2 miles long, so it is not a huge park. On one side it is bordered by houses and on another by Highway 280. But it is a great place to for a hike, especially in the Spring when the wildflowers are blooming.
We head off clockwise on the Sylvan Trail, which is a 2.5 mile exercise loop and is only for walkers and joggers. Horses are allowed on some trails but no bikes or dogs are allowed in the park at all. The start of the Sylvan Trail goes alongside houses but they are well hidden by trees. You see the occasional roof, a corner of a deck or you hear the sound of childrens’ voices but they are the only indications that we are that close to them. The predominant sound here is birdsong. Those little critters are busy building nests and raising their young at this time of the year.
The Sylvan Loop is quite narrow and very popular with joggers but there is room for all. Most of this trail is well wooded, mostly oak, but occasionally in the lower part an open vista with await you around a corner. The higher you climb on the zig zag path the better the view becomes. As you approach the Serpentine Loop, the San Francisco Bay, Foster City and the San Mateo Bridge can be seen. Oakland can also be seen.
We start round Serpentine Loop Trail anticlockwise and then anticlockwise round the Ridgeview Loop before joining up with the Sylvan Loop Trail again. Today we see no wildlife but in the past we have been lucky to encounter deer. No two visits here are the same and the place never ceases to amaze me. On one hike several years ago we spotted an orange mushroom about 10 feet off the trail and we speculated what species it might be. I checked with my binoculars to see if I could see more detail and was embarrassed to discover it was a plastic marker of some sort!
There are very few places to sit and admire the view but the very best bench with a marvelous view is on the Sylvan Trail. It has a dedication on it which reads:
IN LOVING MEMORY
OF
GEORGE V. DILLENBURG
1903-1988
DONATED BY HIS DAUGHTER
I guess George loved coming to the park and this was his favorite spot. From here on a clear day, and today is remarkably clear, you can see the AT&T tower in Redwood City, the office building monstrosity in downtown Palo Alto, Moffet Field and San Jose’s skyline.
We did see a few wildflowers but I understand the full show will not be for another couple of weeks. If you plan to visit the end of the month and early April are the best times.
After our hike up the mountain in Pinnacles last week I suffered with aching muscles in my legs for most of the week. This has been a very easy hike so hopefully I will be lucky.
March 20 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
Last night the clocks ‘sprang’ forward so we had an hour less in bed. We were up though soon after 5 and set off at 6. It was still dark and we were expecting less traffic on the road. After all it is Sunday and how many people are as daft as we are? Well, we were surprised at how many cars there were around. Maybe they put their clocks backward and not forward!
We took 101 south towards Gilroy, where we stopped for breakfast at the Black Bear Diner. No blog entry for it this time because we did one just six months ago. We were the only customers though.
It was getting light as we resumed our journey. Approaching Salinas we encountered fog. Now this was not expected. All the forecasts said it was going to be a nice sunny day but we have learnt that we should take nothing for granted and are always prepared for whatever weather is thrown at us.
South of Salinas there was no more fog. The sun was shining brightly on our left hand side as we drove through the fertile Salinas Valley. We passed neat rows of newly planted crops on both sides. Some plants were beginning to show above the soil and we had fun trying to work out what they were. Salinas Valley is called the Salad Bowl of California. They grow a lot of lettuce, celery, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., here. The valley is flat with the Sierra de Salinas range off to the right and the Gabilon Range to our left.
We are headed to the western sided of the Pinnacles National Monument. To get to the eastern side you have to drive through Hollister. No road connects the two sides though there are a couple of trails. Pinnacles is a very unusual place. It is the remains of a volcano. Well, it is only part of a volcano. The other part is 195 miles to the south due to the shifting of tectonic plates.
There are several interesting trails here. Today we will take take the Juniper Canyon trail from the Chaparral car park to where it joins the the High Peaks trail. There are 13 condors flying free over Pinnacles. They have been released here since 2003 and we hope to catch sight of them.
At Soledad we take Route 146 for 11 miles. We drive through the center of Soldad but there were very few people around. Ahead of us now are the mountains and the sun is just hight enough to make driving difficult. Salad crops have given way to grapes and we pass several wineries.
Well folks, it is a beautiful sunny day though the temperature outside is only 45 degrees. I just know it is going to get a whole lot warmer before long., after all it is only 8.30 in the morning.
The road narrows with many twists and turns for the next 9 miles. Route 146 ends and we cross a cattle grid and enter the park. Soon the distinctive, red jagged peaks of Pinnacles hove into view.
The Ranger Station was closed so we filled in the form, part our $5 in the envelope and posted it. There were only three other cars in the car park.
We set off on the Juniper Canyon trail and it was cold, there was frost on the fence posts. Tom did not have a sweat shirt but we will soon get warm when we start to climb. The trail rises gradually and we follow the course of a small stream, crossing and recrossing it several times. The higher we climb, the steeper the trail becomes and the views get better. At one point we look down onto the car park and it looks a long way away.
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March 11 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
After our abortive visit last Saturday, we made our second attempt today.
Once again we stopped at Peet’s on Geary but this time I remembered to take my bag with me and we didn’t get a parking ticket.
The weather today is not so good as last Saturday. No wonderful views of the city or the ocean but lots of fog. The higher we got the less we saw but we did rise above the fog and the sun was brilliant. We had several scary moments along the way. The sun was blinding in places and Tom found it difficult to see where we were going. The edge of the road was just inches away and beyond that a steep drop, so it was a white knuckle ride.
Once again not many people around that that’s not surprising as it is jut 8 am. We head to East Ridge and park next to the Visitor Center. There is a parking fee of $6 which you place in an envelope and post in the green pipe, leaving the stub on your dash.
On a clear day the views are spectacular up here. Today it is surreal. We are way above the fog and we look down on a sea of fog. No buildings are poking through. In fact the only points of reference we have is Mt Diablo to the east and a few hill tops scattered to the south.
We climb to the top via the Plank Walk. A 0.3 mile trail to the peak. There is a fire look out at the top. The trail starts off as wooden planks and rises steadily but soon it become more and more of a rock climb.
As I approached the top I could hear voices. I rounded the top and saw a group of about a dozen young men all chattering in a foreign tongue. I noticed a smell but could not work out what it was but then spotted a bread roll with half a dozen sticks of smoldering incense stuck into it. I’d found the source of the aroma.
I sat below them on a rock in the sunshine writing my journal and waited for Tom to join me. He had stopped further down to take some photographs. As I sat there soaking in the sunlight and writing, I occasionally gazed towards the city. I noticed the top of the Sutro Tower sticking up above the fog.
More young men joined the group above and my curosity got the better of me. I climbed a little higher to see what they were doing and was met by a curious sight. Most of them were merrily chatting together but several were further down holding small silver bowls in one hand and a silver spoon in the other. The bowls contained a white liquid and they were scattering it over nearby rocks and bushes. Obviously a celebration of some kind, but what? Eventually I caught the eye of one young man and asked. He was pleased to explain to me and Tom (who had now joined me) that they wre from Mongolia and were celebrating their New Year, which this year was one day after the Chinese New Year. The liquid was milk and they were communing with the spirits. We were fascinated.
Of course this is a very spiritual area. The Native Americans who were here way before the Spaniards arrived, regarded this as a holy place.
We waited, Tom at his camera and me sitting on a rock, for some time. The fog was slowly lifting. As we watched, one of the towers of the Golden Gate Bridge appeared. Tom was waiting for the Bank of America tower or the top of the Trans American pyramid to appear. We waited in vain though and just after 10 decided that it was time to find somewhere for breakfast.
February 18 2008 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
If you want to be far from the maddening crowd, head for Alviso. This small town, at the south
end of San Francisco Bay, used to be a bustling port until the San Franciso to San Jose railroad opened in 1865. Now the marinas are silted up and all that remains are the entrances to the docks and lots of weeds.
Alviso itself is a sleepy little town with the railroad running through it and several good Mexican restaurants. A lot of the new houses are built on stilts because this place has flooded several times. The last major flood was in 1958. Since then the sloughs and creeks have been improved so hopefully it won’t happen again.
The Marina car park has had a face lift recently and it is much improved. More footpaths, information boards and seats. This is an important wetlenad area with several large salt ponds. There are always a lot of marsh birds to be seen – American Avocets, Black-necked Sandpipers and Plovers. (Once Tom and I saw a Black Skimmer here but that was very unusual.) They nest on the levees and in the sedges, salt grass, rushes and cordgrass. Around the salt ponds are levees which are ideal for walking and cycling. You can go for miles and miles and see very few people.
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December 07 2007 | Neighborhoods | No Comments »
