After a couple of weekends doing other things, we were back on the road again. At 5.30 we set off for Point Reyes. No breakfast blog today as we ate at home. I have been making Sleepy Morning Oatmeal and have been having that instead of stopping somewhere. I got the recipe from Johnsie who runs the Pomaika’i (Lucky) Farm B on the Big Island.”
Tomales Bay and the top of Mt. Tam in the clouds. (Oops, Photon points out that it's not Mt. Tam it's Black's Mtn. Thanks!)
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
Since the clocks sprang forward it was really been dark when we set out and the sky did not lighten up until we reached San Francisco. The top of the Golden Gate Bridge was lost in fog and we did wander whether it would be the same on Point Reyes. Over the previous week the weather had been glorious with temperatures up in the 70′s and this weekend promises to be just as warm. We brought jackets, though, just in case.
Driving through Marin the residents were beginning to wake up. A few early morning joggers and dog walkers were out and about. Beyond Lagunitas the first redwoods appeared and then signs for Point Reyes National Seashore. We were almost there.
Another view of Tomales Bay
As we rounded the southern end of Tomales Bay, we noticed that there was far more water around. Obviously the tide was at its highest. We pulled in behind The Inverness Store to take a look at our favorite disintegrating boat. It was impossible to get as close as we did in November last year when we stayed nearby for the weekend. Tom took some photos of the Bay and Mount Tam, with its peak hidden by fog.
Beyond Inverness we turned right, heading towards Tomales point instead of the light house. Soon we were in open countryside, passing the occasional historic ranch. Dairy farming is still very much a going concern judging by the many cows grazing in the fields. Each ranch we passed seemed to be raising a different breed.
Off to our left we caught glimpses of the ocean and all around were flowers in bloom. Wildflowers is one of the reasons for our trip today. After so much rain, we were expecting to see a lot of color. The predominant color though on the road to Tomales Point was the white of the cow parsley. In the past, Tomales Point trail has been a good place to see a vivid display of color.
Once across a big cattle grid, we were on the Tule Elk Reserve and we soon spotted our first group of elk and up on the crest of a hill a magnificent
Tule Elk at the reserve in Point Reyes
stag was standing in splendid isolation. Tom stopped to get some photos and was soon lost to view. When he returned to the car he said he didn’t see the stag again but had a very nice view of Tomales Bay. He also complained about the number of bugs around. Here in Claifornia we are not used to a lot of bugs but I guess the warm, wet spring has a lot to do with the increase. Note from Tom: Be mindful of the elk pasture patties. Lots of elk = lots of poop.
Further along the road there was a group of about ten female elk close to the edge of the road. Once again Tom stopped. He was able to get some good shots even though they had moved off a little way as our car approached.
We passed the Pierce Point Ranch and drove to the end of the road which was the car park for the trail down to McLures Beach. Click here for a link to all of the Point Reyes beaches. Neither of us has ever been to this beach so we decided to go take a look. The sandy trail descended gradually. Along the way there were many wildflowers – yellow lupin like flowers, orange California poppies, lilac and white stock like flowers, small purple ground cover plants, bright spiky ice plants and purple vetch. The beach was wild and almost deserted. There was a small group of gulls and about a dozen sanderlings. It is amusing to watch the latter as they follow the receding surf and then turn and quickly mince away as the next little wave surges up the beach.
California Golden Poppy
There were two lots of footsteps in the sand heading north. In the distance I could see two fisherman at the edge of the water. I walked back towards the trail and sat on a large weathered piece of driftwood to catch up on my writing. Tom was busy with his camera and tripod. The sun wasn’t visible at all so it was not very warm plus there was a stiff breeze. At least there is no fog but off in the distance the view is hazy.
I ventured after Tom and discovered some rock pools. Even though I searched, I could not see any fish or even small crabs. There were no sea anemones fastened to the rocks either but it was good fun to clamber over the seaweed covered rocks.
Walking back up the trail seemed much steeper than the descent but there was much to distract me along the way. I looked more closely at the colorful plants and wished that I could identify them all. I tried to take some close up photos so I could look them up when I got home but they did not turn out too good at all.
We drove out of the car park and back up the road for a quarter of a mile and then turned left into the car park of Pierce Point Ranch. As I got out of the car I saw a photo of a woman posted on a notice board and went to have a closer look. It was a flier about Katherine Truitt, a 37 year old resident of Alameda, who had gone missing on January 8 this year. Her car was discovered in the parking lot at McClures Beach. It is assumed she was struck by a rogue or sneaker wave and swept out to sea. Back home I checked to see whether her body had been recovered but so far it has not. While searching I read that another woman – Silvia Lange, a 77 year former volunteer at Point Reyes National Seashore, also went missing 13 days later but this time further south. There are many warnings posted around at Point Reyes about the dangers of getting too close to the ocean so my guess is these two disappearances, though tragic, are just coincidences.
Pierce Point Ranch is not a working ranch now but not only was it the first ranch to be established on Point Reyes it was also the
Pierce Point Ranch
largest. It was built in mid 1800′s and all of the buildings are still standing. There is a self guided tour around the hay barn, one room school house, calving shed, bunk houses and creameries although the only building you can walk through is the hay barn.
I first visited here with Tom about ten years ago and everything looked so much better than it does now. All the buildings need a coat of paint and basic maintenance but I guess the current economic situation has not helped.
There is a trail from here called the Tomales Point Trail and Tom and I have walked it several times. We had every intention of walking it today but the diversion to McClures Beach has not left us enough time. It has been a long time since breakfast and our tummies are growling.
We headed for Point Reyes Station in search of food. On the road between Pierce Point Ranch and Inverness we passed many bikes. The cyclists wore vests which proclaimed they were in training for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.
In Point Reyes Station we looked around for somewhere to eat. Osteria Stellina opens for lunch at 11.30 so we decided to give them a try. We had dinner here a few months ago and we both really enjoyed it. We had a few minutes to kill before it opened so we went to the bank and on the way back to the restaurant Tom spotted a jacket he quite fancied.
Lunch was great. For starters Tom had asparagus and lemon and I had the beets and greens salad with ricotta cheese. We both had the GBD with aged Gruyere cheese. I did ask what GBD stood for and was told ‘Golden Brown and Delicious’. It certainly lived up to its name and worth all the extra calories. We drove home feeling replete and happy.
April 16 2010 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
Saturday Afternoon and Evening
We took a break from visiting artists’ studios by driving into Point Reyes Station. There were four things we wanted to do. The first was to find
Tamales Bay at Point Reyes
an ATM. Buying the bowl wiped us out of cash. Our second errand was to buy some cheese. Point Reyes has many dairy farms and cheese, along with oysters, are what the area is famous for. On Third Street is the Tomales Bay Food Company. It is a small selection of shops selling food from the area. At 1.30 on the Saturday it was packed. There were many cheeses to choose from and I could not decide which one to buy. In the end I chose a small selection from Cowgirl Creamery an a bag consisting of their Original Blue, Matos’ St George, Mt Tam and a goat cheese called California Crottin. The bag also contained bread and butter pickles but I misread it assuming there was bread and butter inside not knowing that there was such a thing as bread and butter pickles. I still have a lot to learn.
Tom and I sat outside on a bench and sampled the Matos’ St George cheese and watched what was going on. There were lots of people sitting on the grass eating their picnics and children were playing. More and more people were arriving to shop. Amongst all this, a young man was balanced on top of a four foot post performing some sort of Kung Fu exercise. For about fifteen minuts he carried on totally engrossed while people walked past, just giving him a casual glance. Hey, this is Marin and that’s what folks do round here. Just another day in Point Reyes Station.
Our next task, and the most important some would say, was to get a drink. Opposite Toby’s Feed Barn, where they hold a farmers market every Saturday, is The Western Saloon and this is where we headed. Outside Osteria Stellina – where we will be eating tonight – there were people waiting for tables but The Western had only a few customers. We took a seat at the bar and ordered a couple of beers. The lady who served us didn’t appear very friendly at first but she warmed up when we asked if she was serving when Prince Charles and Camilla came into the bar four years ago. She certainly was and told us all about it. Tom and I were in Point Reyes Station that day and were standing in the crowd outside the bar. It was a big occasion for us. It is the first time Tom had ever seen any of the Royals and I got to shake hands with both the Prince and his Duchess.
Our last visit was to the Pelican Gallery on the main street. A lot of people were walking round clutching the Point Reyes Open Studios brochure but the Pelican Gallery was not part of it and therefore not very busy. Inside the gallery were lot of large photos printed onto canvas and there were quite a few I would not mind hanging on my wall.
Back on the road again and there were just two more studios to visit today. They first was to Bruce Mitchell, the wood sculpture, who we missed earlier on. His studio was located in Sherwood Road. Bruce specializes in large sculptures and bowls. In the garden outside were a few of his bigger pieces. They are nice but not for us. Where would be put it if we bought one? Also outside he had a large work area with a sawpit. Inside there were more large sculptures and a lot of bowls. I circled the studio studying his bowls and some of them were really nice. There are made out of many different types of wood. It was interesting to observe the different grains in them. I had the urge to pick them up just to run my hands over their surface and to bury my nose inside to smell them, but resisted.
Our very last studio visit was right opposite our B&B so we parked the car and walked across the footbridge over the creek in the middle of Inverness Way. Abbie Durkeee uses mixed media in her paintings. Her studio is also her house so you walk straight into her front room. Several of Abbie’s paintings are displayed on the walls of her sitting room and every one of them told a story. One told the story of her grandmother and displayed a photo of Abbie as a young girl, a loaf of bread, a jar of bread and butter pickles (what a coincidence) and lots of butterfly wings fixed to the bottom third. Abbie collected the wings when she was cycling on the Big Island in Hawaii. Monarch Butterflies migrate to Hawaii and a lot must perish. She said there were millions of wings lying around and in a car they would not have been seen but when you are are riding a bike you see much more. Abbie picked up a discarded Marlborough cigarette box and placed the wings inside. The box protected the wings form being damaged as she continued her ride. Butterfly wings represent family and community to Abbie. Just off the living room is Abbie’s workroom and there was a canvas she was working on and other projects in works. Everything looked highly organized. As we were leaving she us she has a completely different display each day.
Another view of Tamales Bay
Next door to Abbie at 2 Inverness Way we noticed a sign which said ‘Shaker Shops West’ so we went inside to have a look. There were many Shaker items and gadgets like kitchen utensils, coat hooks and children’s toys plus Shaker chairs, tables and a chest. The furniture is well designed, functional and appealing but also very expensive.
Back to the B&B for a spot of relaxation before heading back to Point Reyes Station for dinner. The fresh cookies were out in the sitting room and I picked up a couple as we walked past. They were delicious.
At 5.45 we turned up at Osteria Stellina only to be told our reservation was for 6.30. It was a very busy place with all the tables occupied and people waiting, so we went off to find some amusement before returning at the appointed time. For ten minutes we browsed the books in Point Reyes Books but it closed a 6. There was nothing else to do but to return to the car and listen to the radio for half an hour.
At 6.30 we tried again and only had to wait five minutes before our table was ready. It was not the best table in the house because people were constantly knocking the back of Tom’s chair when they walked past and every time the door opened I got a blast of cold air but these are the only negatives of the whole experience. The chef and owner is Christian Caiazzo. Originally he worked in high profile restaurants in New York and San Francisco but had to give up when he was in a bad car accident. After some painful rehabilitation he moved to Point Reyes Station where he first work at Cowgirl Creamery and then opened a coffee bar before opening Osteria Stellina.
To start with Tom had half a dozen sweetwater oysters. They were served in their half shells on a bed of ice with a cocktail sauce and a lemon flavored dipping sauce. I had roasted brussels sprouts and walnuts. Both were lip smackingly good. For Tom’s main course he had braised goat and I had Osso Buco with mashed potatoes and kohlrabi and broccoli rabe. Tom said the goat was very good. Mine was delicious. To finish Tom had the flourless chocolate desert and I had the cheese selection which consisted of three local cheeses – a soft goats cheese and two from the Cowgirl Creamery (Mt Tam and Red Hawk) served with a membrillo (quince preserve) and bread & butter. It was all washed down with a couple of carafes of house red. We both came to the same conclusion – it was the best dinner we’ve enjoyed for some time.
We were in the restaurant for nearly two hours but never realized it had been that long as we were having the time of our lives. The end of another perfect day.
January 13 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
Another of that boat. There's something about Point Reyes that's magical.
Part 2 (Saturday Morning)
Tom was up very early. It was just after 5 and still dark but he was eager to get out and take some photos. I turned over and went back to sleep.
He returned, very cold, two hours later. I asked whether he had been able to take any photos in the dark. He had tried taking some long exposures shots of the stars but he didn’t think they were too successful When it started to get light he went down to the old wood boat marooned on the mudbank just a few minutes walk from our B&B. The tide was in and he hoped he had managed to get some good shots of the boat and its reflection in the water.
Coffee is available down in the sitting room from 7.30 but breakfast is not until 8.30. We went down for coffee – well Tom had coffee and I had tea – and we read the paper. There were already a few guests there and we chatted sporadically with them. One couple were from Mountain View, which is quite close to where we live. At breakfast we shared a table with Craig and Jenny who were from Campbell which is only a couple of miles from our home. Breakfast consisted of cereal, fruit, orange juice, yogurt and a cooked dish. It was very tasty.
After breakfast we went out for a short walk. We set out to find a trail but ended up walking up
A little windy but still a beautiful day.
Inverness Way and around a few blocks and then alongside the bay before making our way back to the B&B to change into our walking shoes. Then we set off in the car, driving north along Sir Francis Drake Blvd. It was only 10.30 so once again had time to kill. We parked on a gravel pull-in by Chicken Ranch Beach and took a walk along the beach. The tide was ebbing but it was still pretty high. Last time we came here we were able to walk north along the beach and under the numerous piers that have been built into Tomales Bay. Today we had to content ourselves by walking south. There were several fishermen along the edge of the water and though we didn’t see anybody catch anything, we noticed the tail of a fish sticking out of a bag. It looked like a tiger shark. Near three fishermen was a very wet black lab with a tennis ball in its mouth. He came up to me and dropped the ball at my feet. I asked if it was OK to throw the ball and one replied that it wasn’t their dog, it had just appeared. So I threw the ball a couple of times to please him. At one point he was stood on a slope and when he dropped the ball, it rolled into the water. When he looked down and saw the ball had gone he looked at me as much as to say, “well, how did you manage to throw the ball without me seeing you?” It didn’t take him long to find it again.
At 11 we returned to the car and set off for our first studio of the day. This was at the home of Philip Loring Greene and his wife. His speciality is Ilfochrome photography. Egrets and herons are his passion and he has some stunning photos of them. There were a couple of other people there and while his wife – who plays the harpsichord by the way – served us hot apple cider, Philip demonstrated how he developed his photos. It sounded very long and tedious and one has to admire his patience. It can take two weeks to produce one print.
The next studio we missed altogether, though not intentionally. It was difficult to find. I should have looked at the brochure more carefully because it said that access was through the Inverness Valley Inn.
We drove on to the next studio which belonged to Molly Prier. She makes functional ceramics and Pueblo style vessels. Molly’s studio is not very large and only half a dozen people could fit in at any one time. Her burnished bowls were very beautiful and felt smooth to the touch. She fires them by digging a trench and covering them with cow dung. When the fire dies down, the pit is covered with soil. It takes a long time to finish the pots. Though we were tempted to buy one, we didn’t succumb. Just down the road was the joint studio of Shari Miler, who makes creative jewelry – which we were not interested in – and Peter Sheremeta, who makes stoneware pottery and garden vessels. Outside were some of his garden pots. They were round and the bottom is shaped into three legs. The legs are open at the bottom to allow water to drain away – what a novel idea. Inside were the studios were his bowls. They were mostly round and in vibrant colors. Tom fell in love with one so he bought it. It is a Christmas present for his daughter. Peter demonstrated it’s perfect construction by tapping it and it gave the sound of a bell being struck. He showed us one which didn’t make that sound and he said it must have a crack in it but it didn’t now where it was.
A winding road through the woods to another studio.
The next studio on the list belonged to the wood sculptor, Bruce Mitchell but we missed the turning, so we carried on to the next one. We turned up Drakes View. It is a private road but as the sign definitely pointed that way, we carried on. The road climbed up and up and there were some really sharp horseshoe bends. We really thought we had taken the wrong road but then we saw a sign for the studio, so we knew we were headed in the right direction. On and up we climbed, passing some really nice houses. The Richard Blair and Kathleen Goodwin studio is right at the top of a hill and it was one that was badly damage by the 1995 Bolines Range fire. In fact Richard and Kathleen only had a cabin then and it burned down. Now they have built a lovely home which is also their studio. They are both photographers b ut Kathleen also does paintings and Richard produces books. I particularly liked some of Kathleen’s photos. One was of the raft moored offshore at Shell Beach and the other of a group of men in a bus shelter in Alysham.
We walked out of the studio, crossed the road and walked down a short track between some trees to look at the fabulous view down over Tomales Bay. It was a lovely sunny day but there was a chill in the air and the wind could be heard soughing through the trees. Tom pointed out how far the fire had travelled down the hill. You did distinctly see the break between the old and new growth of trees.
We returned to the car and drove down the hill again but turned on onto Upper Robert Drive where we visited the studio of Ed Stetson. This was the only place we stopped at where we were the only visitors. The studio was in the beautiful home of Ed and his wife with a commanding view of Tomales Bay. Ed is a photographer and uses a digital camera to shoot wildlife. He has captured some amazing shots – one of a Marsh Hawk carrying a vole in its talons; one of what he calls ‘sand trees’ taken on Limator Beach and one of a pelican trying to get friendly with a wooden statue of a pelican. Tom and Ed had a long conversation about printing techniques, Photoshop and matting. It is interesting to pick up hints and tips from other photographers.
More to follow…..
January 09 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
Tom and I are off to Point Reyes for the weekend to celebrate our anniversary. We have booked into a B&B in Inverness for two nights. The main
Old fishing boat, "Point Reyes".
reason for choosing Point Reyes is to tour the Open Studios of the local artists. Twenty studios will be open over the weekend and we printed a list of them. I also printed a copy of the map but it was far too small to read.
We left at 7. A wet weekend was forecast but that’s OK. In fact it rained pretty heavily during the night and the roads were wet. We don’t mind the rain, except for the fact that Tom doesn’t like to take photos in the rain. Lots of rain is what we need here in California after several years of drought.
It was Black Friday – the day after Thanksgiving – and the official start of the holiday shopping spree. The roads were not too busy but all the car parks surrounding the shopping malls we passed were full. Some shops opened their doors just after midnight. The last place you will ever see Tom and I is fighting the masses to get that one object which we ‘must’ have at a ridiculous price. For us it is the open road, traveling to new places and meeting new and interesting people.
We stopped off in San Anselmo for breakfast at Comforts Cafe – see previous post. When we stopped outside the cafe there was a slight drizzle but the sun was shining.
After breakfast we continued along Sir Francis Drake Blvd, driving through San Geronimo, Forest Knolls and Lagunitas. It was a scenic drive with many trees showing off their autumnal colors. On our way home we plan to take a detour along the San Geronimo Valley Drive.
We pulled into Point Reyes Station at 10. Already there were a lot of cars around and we had to park on a side street. Point Reyes station is a nice place to browse the shops. There are no big stores but lots of funky little artsy craft shops. We went first to Toby’s Feed Barn where the Group Show is for the Open Studios. At the back of the store were exhibits from each of the studios which are open this weekend and here we picked up a brochure. I marked the ones we particularly want to visit. There were 17 crosses so we are going to be busy. The map in the brochure was very good I’m pleased to say.
We had time to kill as none of the studios opened until 11, so we took a wander around town. We passed the restaurant where Tom has booked for tomorrow night – Osteria Stellina. It looks really good.
As I was walking past a shop which had a large map of the the area displayed outside, I heard a woman asking two men what was there to do in the area. Of course I stopped to look at the map because I can’t resist them and the woman went on to say she was from San Jose. One of the men suggested Stinson Beach so I chimed in that Bolinas was also a nice place to visit. The same man replied that the tide was too high there. I then turned to him and asked if he lived in Bolinas and he admitted he did. I explained to the woman that Bolinas folk remove all road signs pointing to Bolinas to discourage people from visiting and that’s why it was worth a visit.
When in Point Reyes Station we always visit Point Reyes Books. Their range of books is fascinating and diverse. We idled away the time there until 11.
The first open studio we visited was Todd Pickering and it was one block over from where we were. Todd specializes in black and white photography so right up Tom’s alley. Todd and his dog met us at the door and welcomed us. He had a lot of very nice prints to look at and buy. Todd also told us he runs courses, either for groups or one to one. In February I am attending a weekend course in Sausalito and suggested to Tom it would be a good idea for him to do a photography course whilst I attended my course. We could always spend a night somewhere between Point Reyes and Sausalito, thereby saving me a trip back to San Jose in the evening or me spending a night on my own in a hotel. Todd was an interesting person to talk to. He also plays a guitar and had a CD of his music for sale.
Next door was Carolyn Mean’s porcelain and stoneware studio. She had bowls and vases on display. There were several ceramic teapots which were very decorative but impractical. There was also a selection of her seconds for sale which were very inexpensive.
As we walked back to the car there was a heavy drizzle. We were pleased to get back into the car as we were not wearing our jackets or carrying the umbrella. They were of course in the car but that was little use to us outside braving the elements.
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December 31 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
View of lower part of Tamales Bay
We had a nice early start with a stop at Peet’s on Geary in the city for our wake-up beverage. North of the Golden Gate Bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd towards Point Reyes. The views after driving through Fairfax were really pretty, especially with the sun just starting to lighten the sky. Along the sides of the road wildflowers were beginning to appear. The hills are still winter green and everything looks fresh.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
Just before San Geronimo, I noticed some hand painted signs on my left. Some were advertising a country dance, which was held last night. One said ‘Fiddle music makes you smile’. How charming. There were other signs inter mingled with those and I got the message that someone is not too happy about a tank tearing up the ridge. The last one said ‘Thanks, but not no tank’. Hey, this is Marin County so it goes with the territory.
At Olema, we turned right on Highway 1 and then left onto Bear Creek Road. We drove past the Visitors Center and then turned left again onto Limantour Road. Neither Tom nor I have been here before, so this will be a new experience for us.
There is nobody else around at all. We have the road to ourselves. And what a drive. Quail were abundant and darted across the road, with their necks outstretched and their fussy little steps. We stop at a lay-by with a view down to the south end of Tomales Bay.
We passed Sky Trailhead and there were some cars already parked. A little further on we had a spectacular view to the south. On the ridge we
Margaret writing. We were the only folks there.
could see some of the damage caused by the Inverness Ridge Fire 14 years ago but the forest is regenerating. Next we caught sight of Drakes Bay to the north.
The road dead ends in a large car park. There was just one other car there. As we got out of the car, we felt the bite of the wind but we had come prepared with our fleeces.
At the start of the trail, there is a noticeboard with information about the Coastal Watershed Restoration Project. Before the Point Reyes National Seashore was established. Limantour beach was privately owned and there were 20 homes there. Now it is being restored to its natural estuarine habitat and endangered species, like the California red legged frog, will be protected.
We follow the trail towards the beach, walking over a fairly new bridge. The trail then bears right but we decided to investigate the beach before heading down the trail. The path was sandy and crested a low rise range of sand dunes and then we were on the beach. And what a splendid beach – long, sandy and clean. The wind was a little fresh but the sun was shining. We were the only people on the beach and the only footsteps were ours. It was so peaceful to sit on a convenient driftwood log and write, with the soothing sounds of the gentle breaking surf.
Limantour Beach and the cliffs that reminded Sir Francis Drake of the White Cliffs of Dover.
Away to our right the pseudo white cliffs of Dover marched towards the lighthouse, which we couldn’t see because it was around the corner. No wonder Sir Francis Drake was reminded of England when he saw the cliffs. This is definitely the place to bring the kids but, be warned, there are no fast food restaurants or ice cream stands for miles and miles.
Back on the trail, we were on the look out for wildflower but we were almost out of luck. There were some wild iris’s but they were past their best and the lupine bushes were on the verge of blooming.
The trail is along the Limantour Spit. To the right is a marsh with a host of sea and shore birds. To our left are the dunes. The ocean can also be seen but not the beach.
A hawk suddenly flew over my head but I did not have time to identify it through my binoculars before it dipped out of view again. Tom was not able to get a shot of it either.
The trail became narrow and the marsh grass was partially covering the path. The fresh wind whipped the grass against my legs. I could feel the
The Marsh Hawk we saw several times that day
sting of it through my my thin pants. I thought it was just me but Tom commented on it too.
The trail peters out though I am sure it is possible to get right to the end. We did detour down towards the marsh on what I think was an unofficial rail but did not venture too far in case it became boggy.
We turned to go back and gloried in the absolute solitude of the place. Far from the sound of traffic with not even the vapor trail of a passing aircraft to mar the blue sky. Then we spotted the hawk again and Tom took some photos – hope they come out OK. I identified it as a Marsh Hawk.
After our bracing walk and all that fresh air, we were ready for breakfast.
April 07 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
It was 4.30 in the morning and we were on our way. We must be mad to be on the road so early, especially on Labor Day. We listened to the 4.30 news and our thoughts are with the people of new Orleans, who are bracing themselves for Hurricane Gustav to hit in a couple of hours. 90% of the residents have been evacuated, which must have been quite an operation.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The weather here promises to be clear but there was a wind advisory for Sacramento. The wind tends to be quite strong at Point Reyes, so we must be prepared.
It is pitch black outside but I’m able to write because of my nifty pen. It is called ‘The Pilot’s Pen’ and great for writing in the dark as it has a built in light.
Just before 5.30 we draw up outside Peets on Geary in the city. The lights are on but the door is locked. We could see the baristas inside but were not sure what time they opened. If it’s 6, should we wait around for our last chance to get a decent cup of coffee? Our dilemma was solved when the door was unlocked and we were able to go inside. We spent half an hour enjoying our coffee, honey bran muffin and the paper.
As we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge at just after 6 am, it is still dark but there is no fog. We could see Alcatraz and Angel Islands and copuld vaguely make out Oakland across the Bay. Looking back over my shoulder I could see the famous skyline of San Francisco. The next time we will cross will be in two weeks when we will be with our friends Viv and Tom from England. They are coming for a three week road trip to Los Angeles, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, Death Valley and Yosemite. Then they will spend a couple more days with us before flying home. We plan to take them on a day trip to Healdsburg and the Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys on September 22.
After crossing the bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Anselmo, Farifax and up to Olema. The sun is beginning to peep above the hill so I turn the light off on my pen to save the battery. I must say it is a real pleasure to be out and about on the roads with very little traffic around. Not only do we make very good time but we get to enjoy the scenery more without being stuck behind smelly vehicles and slow moving trucks. The wonderful scenery with views of open countryside, forested slopes and rounded hills plus the smell of eucalyptus is invigorating.
As usual I kept my eyes open for wildlife. You just never know what you may see. I was reminded of something we were told on Saturday. Tom and I met up with friends Cindy and Tim. We had a lovely meal at Tanglewood on Santana Row. During the meal Tim related a recent close encounter with a mountain lion. He was driving alone in his 30 year old Mercedes convertible with the roof down on the Pescadero to San Gregorio Stage Coach Road. About half way along, on a secluded stretch, he rounded a corner and suddenly came across an adult male mountain lion at the side of the road. It was stationary, with his back legs up on the steep bank and his front legs on the roadway. Tim stopped, not knowing what to do. At first he was so excited to come eyeball to eyeball with such a magnificent creature, the first he had ever seen, but then the reality hit him. Here he was, almost within touching distance of a lion, motionless and sitting in an open topped car. The lion turned and walked back up the hill and then stopped and turned back. Tim drove slowly ahead, not wanting to frighten the creature but anxious to get away safely. He felt extremely vulnerable, half expecting the lion to launch himself into the car.
Driving through the San Geronimo Valley, it looks a little foggy ahead. It doesn’t look too bad but, of course, it could get worse.
Point Reyes is a huge protected wildlife area. At the southern end there are many trails and remote beaches;
to the left a long drive to the Point Reyes Lighthouse (read about our visit back in January this year) and to the north is Pierce Point Ranch and the spectacular trail to Tomales Point. Today we had two options – the above mentioned Tomales Point hike or the trail from Shell Beach to Pebble Beach. Due to the wind warning, we decided to take the latter option. We have seen wild boars, turkeys, a couple of bobcats and even a tarantulas on our travels but never a mountain lion. It would be great to see one but at a safe distance and certainly not in an open topped car.
At Olema, we turn right and drive along Highway 1for a short distance before turning left towards Inverness. We drive alongside the mudflats at the southern end of Tomales Bay . A wispy fog hovers over the surface of the water.
In Inverness we pull in behind The Inverness Store, which is opposite the small post office, and park. We always stop here. Stuck in the mud a short distance away is an old 50′ wooden fishing boat. Still discernible on the bow is the name ’Point Reyes’. It is slowly disintegrating and sinking into the sand and mud. Over the years we have watched it become more and more dilapidated. There is a footpath which takes you all the way to the boat. It is even possible to jump across a small creek and get right up to the boat. Tom took lots of photos and I just admired the view. It was so peaceful there and it was such a lovely morning.
We did avail ourselves of the portapotty – probably our last chance for a few hours. These out houses can be pretty gruesome but, though full, it wasn’t too bad. At least it had water, soap, paper towels and even hand sanitizer.
About a mile north of Inverness we took a sharp right hand turn on Camino Del Mar. There are no signs telling you there is beach access but at the end of the road is a small car park for Shell Beach and the beginning of the Johnstone Trail. From here you can walk to Shell Beach – 0.5 km, Pebble Beach – 6.4 km, Hearts Desire Beach – 7.0 km and Indian Beach 7.8 km. All the way to Indian Beach and back is a 10 mile hike. The trail is open from 8 am until 8 pm.
It was just before 8 and there were no other cars about. The first part of the trail is an easy descent to the beach. Shell Beach is tiny and was deserted. Just offshore is a small raft. Tom remembered swimming out to it one day in his youth with a couple of mates. As they lay and sat about on the raft, one of them mentioned that something large had brushed against his leg on the way out. Speculation amongst the three of them came to the conclusion it was a shark and they recounted shark stories for the next half hour. Tom said the swim back to the beach was far longer than the way out and he was relieved when his feet eventually felt solid ground under him.
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September 05 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
Point Reyes Lighthouse is 50 miles north of San Francisco in the Point Reyes National
Seashore. This is a protected area covering approximately 71,000 acres and is a wonderful area to explore. There is only one, very small town in the whole area and that is Inverness. Most of the area is uninhabited but there are quite a few historic dairy farms which are still in operation so there are lots of cows.
Point Reyes itself is a curiosity as it is moving north at a rate of 2 inches a year. The rocks and vegetation are completely different here than on the opposite side of Tomales Bay.
There are a number of interesting places to visit. North of Inverness there are three, small secluded beaches on the Tomales Bay side – Shell Beach, Hearts Desire Beach and Marshall Beach. They are hard to find and not signposted at all from the road. At the northern end of Point Reyes there are free roaming Tule Elk and they are a wonderful sight. Also in the same area is the Historic Pierce Point Ranch with a self guided tour around the complex. Running past the ranch is the lovely Tomales Point Trail.
Today though we are headed for the lighthouse. This involves a drive of 20 miles from the entrance of the National Seashore, passing a few of the dairy farms. At weekends and holidays during the whale watching season, no cars are allowed to drive to the lighthouse and there is a bus shuttle instead. At this time of the year we can drive all the way to the small car park at the end.
As we got out of the car we had a marvelous view of the Farallon Islands. There is a 0.4 mile walk with some breathtaking views to get to the beginning of the lighthouse complex. There is a small visitors center before you get to the top of the steps leading down to the lighthouse.
As we approached the steps, we met a lady who was waiting for her son to return from his trip down to the lighthouse. We had a fascinating conversation with her. What an interesting life she had led. In the ten minutes or so we were talking to her we almost had her life story. The highlight was her telling us that for a few years she had been a hooker in Berkeley. I won’t give any more information in case anybody who reads this knows her!
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November 18 2007 | Special Places | No Comments »
We left home well before daybreak. It was dark when we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge; it was dark driving through San Anselmo; it was still dark driving through Point Reyes Station. It was just getting light when we reached our first destination – Nicks Cove and Miller’s Landing on the eastern side of Tomales Bay.
[Click on the image for a larger version]
When we were last here in March 2005, there was a dilapidated and abandoned restaurant here which was a well known seafood restaurant back in the 1990s. Signs were posted saying it was going to be renovated. recently we read that the work was finished and the restaurant had been reopened. So we have come to check it out.
There was a boat launch here as well but it is closed at the moment because that is now being renovated.
Tom got out and took a few photos but I sat in the car as it was very cold outside. I started writing but at first I could barely see the lines on the page. Gradually it grew lighter and I was able to see what I was writing.
Opposite the restaurant are some cabins. Back in 2005 there were cabins here but they were boarded up and ramshackle. They have been rebuilt as well and are very smart but they are very expensive to hire. There are smaller cabins alongside the restaurant and built over the bay on stilts. There are eleven cabins altogether ranging from $300 – $965 per night – I told you they were expensive!
I watched as someone from the restaurant cross the road and delivered newspapers to the cabins.
Guess I had better get out and take a look though I am very reluctant to do so as it’s very chilly out there. It was 63 degrees when we left San Jose and it is 20 degrees colder here. We are promised a warm day today though. As it is still only 7 in the morning I cannot expect too much heat just yet.
It was too cold to stay outside long and Tom was already making his way back to the car so I took a quick look at the restaurant. It certainly looks much better than last time. They serve seafood and cocktails and they are great views of the bay. It wasn’t open so I couldn’t go inside. There was a lot of activity so I guess they will be open for breakfast later.
We decided to head back to Point Reyes Station for breakfast. Just after we left Nicks Cove there was a wild turkey in the middle of the road. We need a turkey for Thanksgiving but Tom refused to run it down!
November 05 2007 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
