Point Reyes
It was 4.30 in the morning and we were on our way. We must be mad to be on the road so early, especially on Labor Day. We listened to the 4.30 news and our thoughts are with the people of new Orleans, who are bracing themselves for Hurricane Gustav to hit in a couple of hours. 90% of the residents have been evacuated, which must have been quite an operation.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The weather here promises to be clear but there was a wind advisory for Sacramento. The wind tends to be quite strong at Point Reyes, so we must be prepared.
It is pitch black outside but I’m able to write because of my nifty pen. It is called ‘The Pilot’s Pen’ and great for writing in the dark as it has a built in light.
Just before 5.30 we draw up outside Peets on Geary in the city. The lights are on but the door is locked. We could see the baristas inside but were not sure what time they opened. If it’s 6, should we wait around for our last chance to get a decent cup of coffee? Our dilemma was solved when the door was unlocked and we were able to go inside. We spent half an hour enjoying our coffee, honey bran muffin and the paper.
As we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge at just after 6 am, it is still dark but there is no fog. We could see Alcatraz and Angel Islands and copuld vaguely make out Oakland across the Bay. Looking back over my shoulder I could see the famous skyline of San Francisco. The next time we will cross will be in two weeks when we will be with our friends Viv and Tom from England. They are coming for a three week road trip to Los Angeles, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, Death Valley and Yosemite. Then they will spend a couple more days with us before flying home. We plan to take them on a day trip to Healdsburg and the Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys on September 22.
After crossing the bridge, we took Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Anselmo, Farifax and up to Olema. The sun is beginning to peep above the hill so I turn the light off on my pen to save the battery. I must say it is a real pleasure to be out and about on the roads with very little traffic around. Not only do we make very good time but we get to enjoy the scenery more without being stuck behind smelly vehicles and slow moving trucks. The wonderful scenery with views of open countryside, forested slopes and rounded hills plus the smell of eucalyptus is invigorating.
As usual I kept my eyes open for wildlife. You just never know what you may see. I was reminded of something we were told on Saturday. Tom and I met up with friends Cindy and Tim. We had a lovely meal at Tanglewood on Santana Row. During the meal Tim related a recent close encounter with a mountain lion. He was driving alone in his 30 year old Mercedes convertible with the roof down on the Pescadero to San Gregorio Stage Coach Road. About half way along, on a secluded stretch, he rounded a corner and suddenly came across an adult male mountain lion at the side of the road. It was stationary, with his back legs up on the steep bank and his front legs on the roadway. Tim stopped, not knowing what to do. At first he was so excited to come eyeball to eyeball with such a magnificent creature, the first he had ever seen, but then the reality hit him. Here he was, almost within touching distance of a lion, motionless and sitting in an open topped car. The lion turned and walked back up the hill and then stopped and turned back. Tim drove slowly ahead, not wanting to frighten the creature but anxious to get away safely. He felt extremely vulnerable, half expecting the lion to launch himself into the car.
Driving through the San Geronimo Valley, it looks a little foggy ahead. It doesn’t look too bad but, of course, it could get worse.
Point Reyes is a huge protected wildlife area. At the southern end there are many trails and remote beaches;
to the left a long drive to the Point Reyes Lighthouse (read about our visit back in January this year) and to the north is Pierce Point Ranch and the spectacular trail to Tomales Point. Today we had two options - the above mentioned Tomales Point hike or the trail from Shell Beach to Pebble Beach. Due to the wind warning, we decided to take the latter option. We have seen wild boars, turkeys, a couple of bobcats and even a tarantulas on our travels but never a mountain lion. It would be great to see one but at a safe distance and certainly not in an open topped car.
At Olema, we turn right and drive along Highway 1for a short distance before turning left towards Inverness. We drive alongside the mudflats at the southern end of Tomales Bay . A wispy fog hovers over the surface of the water.
In Inverness we pull in behind The Inverness Store, which is opposite the small post office, and park. We always stop here. Stuck in the mud a short distance away is an old 50′ wooden fishing boat. Still discernible on the bow is the name ’Point Reyes’. It is slowly disintegrating and sinking into the sand and mud. Over the years we have watched it become more and more dilapidated. There is a footpath which takes you all the way to the boat. It is even possible to jump across a small creek and get right up to the boat. Tom took lots of photos and I just admired the view. It was so peaceful there and it was such a lovely morning.
We did avail ourselves of the portapotty - probably our last chance for a few hours. These out houses can be pretty gruesome but, though full, it wasn’t too bad. At least it had water, soap, paper towels and even hand sanitizer.
About a mile north of Inverness we took a sharp right hand turn on Camino Del Mar. There are no signs telling you there is beach access but at the end of the road is a small car park for Shell Beach and the beginning of the Johnstone Trail. From here you can walk to Shell Beach - 0.5 km, Pebble Beach - 6.4 km, Hearts Desire Beach - 7.0 km and Indian Beach 7.8 km. All the way to Indian Beach and back is a 10 mile hike. The trail is open from 8 am until 8 pm.
It was just before 8 and there were no other cars about. The first part of the trail is an easy descent to the beach. Shell Beach is tiny and was deserted. Just offshore is a small raft. Tom remembered swimming out to it one day in his youth with a couple of mates. As they lay and sat about on the raft, one of them mentioned that something large had brushed against his leg on the way out. Speculation amongst the three of them came to the conclusion it was a shark and they recounted shark stories for the next half hour. Tom said the swim back to the beach was far longer than the way out and he was relieved when his feet eventually felt solid ground under him.
September 05 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
