Old Sacramento

Drawbridge across the Sacramento River In Freeport

Drawbridge across the Sacramento River In Freeport

After breakfast at Alma’s River Cafe, we drove to Sacramento.  The fog had lifted slightly.  At least we could see to the other side of the river.  It looks like the sun will win through and we will have a nice day.

We took Highway 160 all the way into Sacramento and the road ran alongside the river for most of the journey.  It was a very scenic drive along the levee with water on one side and pear orchards and vineyards on the other.  At one point we passed a large heard of goats and they were all pressed up against the fence.

At Courtland, Tom pulled off the road.  He had seen the courthouse and wanted to take another look.  It seemed a huge building for such a small place.  Tom thought it might have originally been a Carnegie library but it’s looking pretty neglected now.  I checked online when I got home and could find only minimal information about Courtland and none at all about the courthouse.  We drove a little further into Courtland but there was no main street and only a few houses.  We also stopped at Freeport.  Tom wanted to investigate the abandoned railroad track but there was not too much to see at all apart from a bridge over the old tracks.

Soon after Freeport we left the river.  Just after driving under I5 there was a huge water tower – or at least we took it to be one but it looked more like a flying saucer on legs – which had a ‘Welcome to Sacremento City of Trees’ emblazoned upon it.  Soon after that the road was lined with huge trees with their leaves beginning to change color and fall.  It was a pretty sight.

Our destination was ‘Old Sac’,  which is in the historic downtown of the city.  We were looking for First Street and the History Museum.  There is an hour long walking tour which leaves

Old Wells Fargo Stagecoach.  Must have been a bumpy, dusty ride.

Old Wells Fargo Stagecoach. Must have been a bumpy, dusty ride.

the museum at 11 am if only we could find First Street.  We entered Old Sac on a cobbled road.  The buildings were all gold rush era and very quaint.  We parked on Front Street at a parking meter.  The charges were a bit steep at 25c for 12 minutes and the limit was two hours.  I put in $2.50 for two hours of parking and we set off to find First Street.  We walked up one block and found ourselves on Second Street, so where on earth was First Street?  Fortunately I spotted the Visitors Center so we popped in in there to ask.  While I was waiting to speak to the assistant, I got into conversation with another lady.  She was here for a week from Kentucky and staying in a Elder Hostel and was looking for things to do in Sacramento.  I told her about the walking tour and she was interested.  Maybe we will meet up again later.  The assistant answered my query – Front Street is First Street!  He gave me a map of Old Sacramento and marked where the History Museum was.

We had half an hour to spare so took the opportunity to look round the Wells Fargo exhibition in the Visitors Center.  One exhibit was an original stage coach.  I tried to imagine what it would be like to travel across country in one.  Not only did the seats look uncomfortable and cramped and there were no springs, but I wondered what ladies did when they wanted to go to the bathroom.  The clothes they wore, apart from being extremely tight and cumbersome, would have made the procedure difficult.  Part of the exhibition was on the Pony Express.  We learnt that the riders worked 72 hour shifts, only stopping to change horses every 12 miles and the company preferred to hire orphans.  More surprising though was that the whole operation only ran for 18 months before the telegraph put them out of business.

On our way to the History Museum we stopped off to buy some salt water taffy and a bottle of water.  Tom found some wax lips.  I thought they were candy but Tom explained they were just for fun but I couldn’t see the purpose of them at all.  Guess you have to be a kid.

At the History Museum I went inside to inquire about the walking tour and to pay.  I was told the tickets were $7 each but no money would be taken yet as the guide had not turned up.  This news did not go down too well with us.  Afterall we were likely to run out of money on the parking meter before the tour ended if it didn’t leave more or less on time.  We decided to wait a little longer just in case the guide did turn up.  We sat outside in the shade and met up with the lady I had spoken to in the Visitors Center.  We seemed to be the only three waiting.  After waiting ten minutes we decided to abandon the idea.

We went instead to the Railroad Museum which was almost next door.  The entrance fee was $9 each with no discounts for seniors.  Now trains do not particularly appeal to me but the exhibits here were well displayed and it was possible to go inside a lot of them.  The first I ventured inside was the 4294 which was enormous, positively a behemoth.  The cab was ahead of the engine and was specifically designed that way so that fumes from the smokestack did not asphyxiate the driver or the fireman when traveling through the many tunnels in mountainous areas.

Margaret getting a lesson in mail sorting at the Sacramento Railroad Museum

Margaret getting a lesson in mail sorting at the Sacramento Railroad Museum

The next and most interesting to me was the Great Northern Railway Post Office Car No. 42.  This particular train traveled the Chicago to Seattle route.  A docent took a lot of time to explain everything to me, pointing out the pigeon holes and describing how the whole operation worked.  There would have been twelve people working to sort the mail, doing a range of duties.  It was high paid work but it needed to be because it involved being very fast and efficient plus remembering every stop along their section.  The trickiest job is being the mail catcher because he had to throw the mail bags out at many places along the line, sometimes in the coldest of weather, while, at the same time, catching the mail with an ingenious contraption.  All the while the train is traveling at least 50 miles an hour.  It must have been extremely hard work.

I wondered around the rest of the museum looking at various information boards scattered around and peered into the windows of the luxurious Clegg carriage.  Talk about how the other half lived.  There was an plush sitting room, complete with a fireplace; an office; a dining room; a kitchen and, right at the end, the servants quarters.  The latter were extremely cramped and the toilet was open and exposed.

I looked at my watch and saw that the parking meter would run out in ten minutes.  I left Tom still absorbed in the exhibits to return to the car and feed the meter.  There was still seven minutes to go before the time expired so I decided to wait it out.  There was a convenient seat nearby so took a rest and did a bit of writing.  When I glanced up there was a meter maid standing in front of the car and the excess flag was up.  Fortunately she had not started to write out the ticket and she said it was OK to feed the meter.  I had the quarters ready in my hand but as I feed them into the meter, I dropped one and it rolled away and then disappeared through a crack in the boardwalk.  Both the meter maid and I laughed at the absurdity of it.

The meter maid struck up a conversation with me to say she liked my accent and asked where I came from.  When I told I came from England she asked which part.  She had never heard of Guildford but she went on to tell me of where her ancestors came from.  It is always fascinating having these conversations.

Not fifteen minutes later I was back in the Railroad Museum and chatting with another person about where I came from.  Tom and I had gone upstairs to look at the model railways.  While Tom wandered around and relived his childhood, I sat on a bench in front of the moving display.  This time it was a docent who sat down beside me and asked if I was doing my homework.  At my age, he must have been joking.  I happened to be once again writing in my journal.  He told me his wife came from Scotland and neither of them had visited there since 1965.  I told him it was about time he went back again.

When we walked back outside the museum the heat hit us.  We decided to take a walk round and look at a few of the shops but we were very disappointed.  The outside of the shops were authentic and it was fun to walk on the covered boardwalk but most of the shops were just tourist traps selling T-shirts, forgettable souvenirs, body piercings and fast food restaurants.  Several people tried to thrust adverts into our hands as we passed.  Beside all of this, the place was getting crowded.  It was time to move on.

Back in the car we then had to find our way to Highway 160.  Tom’s keen sense of direction soon had us heading the right way.  We passed the State Capital

Some very big equipment at the Sacramento Train Museum

Some very big equipment at the Sacramento Train Museum

on our left.  Just past there we saw a large gathering of people in a small park.  There were flag carriers and I saw somebody in uniform holding a big drum.  Then we noticed a lot of people in uniform, mostly policemen.  Along the sides of the road were parked hordes of police and fire department cars and trucks.  Later on we drove through a very nice area with huge shade trees.  In front of most of the houses on the roadway were huge mounds of leaves.  One of the drawbacks of having these trees outside your house at this time of year but adequate payment I’m sure for the beauty of the trees themselves.

We were back in Locke by 2.30 and had a quick snack.  We stopped to buy rolls on the way home and made sandwiches with the steak left over from last night.  Then we took another walk around Locke.  Today it is much busier than yesterday.  As it is the weekend most of the shops were open.  There are no high end shops like Carmel.  Locke does not pretend to be something it is not.  Most shops are very rickety with dark interiors.  The busiest place was the bar called Al’s Place or ‘Al the Wops’.  Outside were a good dozen flashy Harley Davidson motorcycles.  Some of them were really smart.  Tom pointed one out where the passenger seat not only had a padded back and armrests but also speakers on each side of the seat.  Positively comfortable I’m sure.

In the evening we drove into Isleton in search of somewhere to eat dinner.  Isleton is larger than Walnut Grove or Locke and more seemed to be going on.  There were even a couple of casinos.

We found a Mexican restaurant and a Chinese restaurant but picked Isleton Joe’s because they serve crawdads.  Apparently you must have crawdads if you go to Isleton.  Crawdads, by the way, are called crayfish in England and are very small fresh water lobster.  As I didn’t know whether I would like them, I did not want to order them on their own but chose to have them with pasta and alfredo sauce.  Tom had the crawdads with pasta and pesto sauce.  To begin with there was a choice of soup or salad  Tom chose the salad and I went for the split pea soup.  When I came to sample the soup though it was very salty so only had a couple of mouthfuls.  Our server was excellent and changed it for the clam chowder, which was much better.  The pasta and crawdads was very good but there was so much of it.  We both had as much as we could eat but hadn’t made much of a dent in the amount on our plates.

Then it was home for another early night.  Next door appeared to be having a party as there was loud music playing but we could hardly hear it inside the cottage and it did not stop us getting another good night’s sleep.

November 03 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »

Sacramento Delta – Hartland Ecotour

From Hartland Nursery

From Hartland Nursery

We’ve been looking forward to this trip for a few weeks.  As Tom’s family were not able to get together for Easter, Jim, Tom’s cousin, suggested and then booked a Delta Eccotour.  Hartland Nursery. on Grand Island, run several boat trips a year and we were booked on the Tule Wilderness tour on June 6.

Tom and I left very early – so nothing new there.  We decided to go via Suisun to have breakfast at Bab’s Delta Diner.  After another fabulous breakfast, we made our way through Rio Vista and over the two ferries, thus retracing our previous trip.

(Click on the images for larger versions)

After crossing the Steamboat Slough to Grand Island we tuned left and drove a couple of miles to Hartland Nursery.  The tour started at 10.00 but we were asked to report in by 9.30.  Tom and I arrived just before 9 so we were in good time.  Hartland Nursery is mainly  a wholesale retailer to landscape and restoration professionals but is open to the public on Wednesday and Saturdays.  They specialize in plants native to Northern California’s Central Valley.

Tom and I had plenty of time to wander around.  I discovered, in a grove of gated woodland, lots of free range chickens.  Later I found out the eggs are for sale and bought a dozen fresh eggs.

The rest of the family did not arrive until just before 10.  We were getting worried and beginning to think we would have to go without them.  Don and Arlene, Tom’s Dad and his wife, were unable to come at the last minute due to sickness, so our party was smaller than expected.

Captain Tule

Captain Tule

The boat, the Tule Queen II, is a 45 seat catamaran.  Today though there were only 30 people on board.  Our driver and guide was Jeff Hart – known as Captain Tule.  He is a naturalist and owner of the Hartland Nursery and he informed and entertained us for the four and a half hours of the tour.

We set off down Steamboat Slough and turned right on Sutter Slough.  Captain Tule explained that the Delta was fresh water though there are some

who say it isn’t.  It’s true that due to higher water levels there is more salt water flowing in.

The folks at Hartland Nursery are experts in growing plants native to Northern California’s Central Valley.  They also specialize in an ecological approach to restoring natural wetlands and protecting levees.  During the trip Captain Tule pointed out all the places we passed where they have landscaped, using various methods to stop the levees from crumbling.  Many methods have been used by a variety of organizations over the years but the most successful have been by using rocks and plants.  The roots of the plants attach the rocks to the levees themselves and the rocks stop the levees from being eroded by water and wave action.

On our right was Sutter Island and Ryer Island on our left.  Traveling round the top of Ryer Island we entered Minor Slough and Prospect Island was on our right.  An osprey was spotted almost overhead.  I was hoping to see it hover and swoop but it flew steadily away from us.

Abandoned fishing boat named Merluccius out of Fort Bragg.

Abandoned fishing boat named 'Merluccius' out of Fort Bragg.

Some of the land we passed looked neglected.  Captain Tule called it ‘benign neglect’.  There is not enough money around to maintain the levees or the land behind them.  Due to subsidence, many of the islands are sinking and if the levees are breached, many acres of land will be under water.  Then, of course, there is always the danger of earthquakes.  The last major earthquake in the delta was before the levees were built.  Now, many of them are in such sad repair, that, if an earthquake struck, it could be a catastrophe equal to Hurricane Katrina with Sacramento itself threatened.

Along Minor Slough we saw several interesting things.  There was the abandoned fishing boat named ‘Merluccius’ out of Fort Bragg.  It’s rusting hulk was grounded on the bank.  We also spotted a green heron taking off.  Captain Tule pointed out a Buckeye, with a lovely display of white flowers, on the bank.

We came to a waterway junction with the Sacramento River Deep Water Canal, which we proceeded to cross, and entered Cache Slough.   Soon we turned right into Prospect Slough and entered the wilderness.  On our left was Liberty Island.  This was the focal point of our trip.  Liberty Island was flooded when the levees were breached in 1998.  Hundreds of acres of farmland were inundated and are still under water.  It took nearly two hours to circumnavigate the island and it was an eerie trip.  Not too many people venture this far up the delta and it is truly a wilderness.  Taking a boat through the levees to explore what remains of the island would be dangerous but it would be an interesting expedition for kayakers.

continue reading »

June 23 2009 | Special Places | 6 Comments »

Sacramento River Delta

The clocks were put forward last night so we had one hour’s less sleep but we were still up at 5.  I had to stop thinking that it was really only 4 am!

We were on our way to the Sacramento River Delta, so called because this is where the Sacramento River flows into the San Francisco Bay.  Tom read an article in the San Francisco Chronicle by Tom Stienstra entitled ‘Sunday Drive: Sacramento River Delta’.  The drive includes two ferry crossings.  This weekend is the first really nice weekend for quite a while and we felt this would be perfect for a nice day out.  We did discuss going the opposite way round but then eventually decided to follow exactly the same route.

At 6.45 we crossed the Benicia Bridge and headed towards Fairfield.  It was still dark and the mothball fleet was barely discernible.  To the east though the sky was becoming lighter. We stopped in Suisun City for breakfast – see previous post.

After the best breakfast ever, we were heading east on Highway 12.  The sun was up, the scenery intoxicating and I felt in my bones that it was going to be a great day.  We passed rolling green hills and cattle grazing.  The road was a two lane highway with a concrete barrier down the middle.  Without it I’m sure there would be a lot of head on collisions.  On our right was a wind farm and later there were windmills on both sides of the road.

Rio Vista Bridge over the Sacramento River

Rio Vista Bridge over the Sacramento River

At 8.30 we entered Rio Vista.  The directions were to turn left on River Road at the foot of the bridge.  The last turn on the left before the bridge was not River Road so we ended up going across the bridge.  The Rio Vista Bridge is a long, low bridge with a central drawbridge to allow passage to large ships on there way to Sacramento or to the ocean.  On the far side we turned around, drove back across the bridge and followed the sign to Ryer Island and the first ferry two miles away.

(Click on the images for larger versions)

We stopped near the bridge to take photos.  It’s not a pretty bridge but it has a certain elegance about it.  The river here is wide and I noticed there was quite a lot of debris floating downstream, probably caused by the storms over the last couple of weeks.  There was not much traffic around, either on the road or on the river.  Along the river back there were quite a few fishermen and one of them even had a BBQ going.

Soon we arrived at the Ryer Island Ferry.  We had to wait for a few minutes

The Ryer Island Ferry called, The Real McCoy

The Ryer Island Ferry called, "The Real McCoy"

before we could drive on board the flat bottomed boat.  There was a sign next just before the ferry which said the ferry was closed every day between 7.20 and 8.20 am.  It seems such a strange time of day to be closed.  Before long we were waved on board.  The ferry is called ‘The Real McCoy’ and has two propellers.  There was room for about six cars but we were the only passengers this trip.  We got out of the car and spoke to one of the operators, who was sporting a marvelous beard.  He was an interesting guy, who has been working on the ferry for 24 years – ‘Beats working in an office’ he said.  He was telling us that the ferry is free running and could turn in a circle or a square.  He also explained how repairs were carried out on the propellers by means of a coffer dam.

All to soon we were across Cache Slough and on Ryer Island.  We drove off the ferry and turned right but stopped almost immediately to take photos looking down on the ferry as it made it’s way back across the slough.  In the distance we could see the Rio Vista Bridge.  All was peaceful with just the sound of birdsong filling the air.  It was a pretty drive down to and around the southern tip of Ryer Island, passing vineyards and then driving north with Steamboat Slough to our left.  The land to our left was lower than the road and we passed several orchards.  Then we drove past what we thought was an island in the slough and worked out later on that it was a long peninsula.

Steamboat Slough ferry accross to Grand Island

Steamboat Slough ferry across to Grand Island

Soon we arrived at the second ferry, this time across Steamboat Slough to Grand Island.  This ferry has a diesel engine but is guided by a cable.  We found out why the ferries are closed between 7.20 – 8.20 am – it is lunch time.  Both ferries operate 24 hours a day and, by the way, are completely free of charge.  This time there was another car waiting to cross as well but we had to wait for the ferry to come back from the other side.  At first we could not see the cable, but when the ferry started to move the orange cable came to the surface.  As the ferry crosses, a red light flashes on the roof and all boats have to wait.  If they didn’t the propellers on the crossing boats could drag on the cable and that’s not good news for either the ferry or the boat.  This crossing was much shorter than the first and soon the ramp was being lowered and we drove out on the far side.

Once again, we pulled over for a photo op.  I wandered across the road, where, below the level of the road, was a small farm with a large cactus plant and several goats.  We turned right onto Grand Island Road, drove for a short distance and then turned left on Highway 220, which we followed all the way to Ryde.  Here we diverted from Tom Stienstra’s directions and for the rest of our interesting day on the Delta, you will have to read our next post.

March 19 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »