Fillmore District, San Francisco
A day off. Where shall we go? We decided San Franciso needed another visit as we haven’t been there for a while.
We checked to see what was going on at both the de Young and the Legion of Honor museums but their combined website was very confusing. ‘The Birth of the Impressionists’ was due to open the next day but there were no details about what was on today. As it was a Tuesday, we wanted to know if either were even open but Tom couldn’t even find out that information.
In the end we set off with no clear idea where we would end up. For breakfast we stopped at the Lakeside Cafe on Ocean in the Merced Manor district. We have eaten here before so we know the food is good, if a little pricey. They have soothing classical music playing in the background and the surroundings are nice.
After breakfast we made our way in the general direction of the Fillmore district. We got a little lost because there were not too many allowable left turns but we eventually arrived on Fillmore Street. The only parking was at a meter where the limit was one hour at a cost of $2.
We walked up one side of Fillmore and down the other. There are some very nice shops; we passed small, high end dress and shoe shops, elegant furniture stores and loads of beauty parlors with exotic names. In just three blocks there are five coffee shops. Along with the ubiquitous Starbucks and Peet’s, there was Tully’s Coffee Shop, The Royal Ground Coffee and Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf.
I’ve had great trouble finding decent and stylish greeting cards and when I spotted Paper Source I made a beeline for it. Just inside a whole array of suitable cards so I bought four of them. One day I will write a list and make a special trip to a shop like Paper Source to buy a year’s supply. At the back of the shop you could purchase all kinds of paper, including blank cards and envelopes to make your own greetings cards. What particularly caught our eye on the way out were racks of beautiful Japanese paper but they were about $10 a sheet. The shop smelt of paper, which was very pleasant.
The next shop we wandered into was Browser Books. Neither of us can resist a bookshop and this one had lots of interesting reads. I’m reading Stieg Larsson’s ‘The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ on my Kindle at the moment (who isn’t?) and Browser Books had it prominently displayed along with the next one called ‘The Girl who Played with Fire’. Another book which promises to be good is ‘Little Bee’ by Chris Cleave. Maybe that will be my next purchase closely followed by ‘Stones into Schools’ by Greg Mortenson, which is the sequel to ‘Three Cups of Tea’. Amazingly just up the road from the bookshop at The Clayton Theater they were advertising the film, ‘The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ (we later saw that film and it’s very good).
All this meandering up and down Filmore brought us close to running out of time at the meter so we popped a few more coins in as we passed.
Fillmore Street heading down towards San Francisco Bay
Tom wanted to walk up a little further to take some shots of the Bay where Fillmore suddenly dips downhill. I remember the first time Tom brought me to that point and my stomach just plummeted and now we always bring first time visitors to San Francisco to give them a thrill as we crest the hill and plunge down the other side.
At the junction of Broadway and Fillmore though there was road construction going on. A massive backhoe was making light work of picking up large slabs of tarmac and dumping them into the back of a truck. At the same time, concrete was being pumped in to fill the hole and two guys were busy spreading it. If was an efficiently coordinated effort while traffic was being directed around the construction site. A Muni inspector was on duty to lower the arms of the trolleys as they approached the junction so they could maneuver around the operation. It was fascinating to watch.
Our last stop was at Peet’s coffee house. We sat for ten minutes enjoying a cup of coffee (Tom) and a hot chocolate (me) before getting back to the car just as the expired flag popped up.
Our journey home did not take too long at all and we noticed the thermometer rise from 60 – 80 degrees. It’s true what they say about how much colder San Francisco is in the summer so if you are visiting during June to September don’t forget to bring some warmer clothing.
August 20 2010 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | No Comments »
Java House Restaurant, San Francisco
The Java House Restaurant is somewhere not to miss if you are ever near AT&T Park in San Francisco. For one thing, according to the plaque outside, it has been around since 1912 and is the oldest eatery on the Embarcadero. Constructed entirely of wood, it is more like a shack. The outside is covered in posters, mostly to do with baseball, but also a poster for the movie ‘I Love You Man’. If it is good enough for Herb Caen and Willie Mays, then it is good enough for me.
Inside you order at the counter. The menu is very basic and I warn you in advance, it is a greasy spoon. All the egg dishes have three eggs so high doses of the wrong kind of cholesterol. Obviously no oatmeal. There were some specials on the board but they didn’t appeal to us. We both ordered the cheese omelet with hash browns and toast ($7.50).
Seating is in three areas, a couple of tables near the counter, a side room and six tables outside on the sidewalk. We chose the side room where there were three sorts of chairs. All the furniture was a bit tacky to say the least. One thing I noticed was the sticky floor (and the table top was almost as sticky). Can’t complain about the view though, as we looked out over a marina with a collection of desirable small boats.
What about the decor? It can only be called a hodgepodge. Beer adverts were everywhere including a Coors frieze going round the walls and across the ceiling. Lots of signed photos of Giants baseball players. One outstanding feature in the side room was a large cut out sculpture on the wall of a cartoon couple jiving, dressed in clothes of the fifties. I wonder if it has been there since then?
After a false alarm when we thought Tom’s name was called, we collected our food from the counter. It came on a pink plastic oval plate. The hash browns were more like country potatoes and the omelet didn’t look like it was big enough to have three eggs in it but what do I know? The toast was buttered and placed on the same plate. We had to go get some jam from a side counter. The selection was not great.
My omelet was a tad undercooked but it tasted fine. Tom really liked the potatoes and the coffee was OK. We cleared our plates though, with just a greasy film remaining.
I made the trip to the restroom with great trepidation, which turned out to be fully justified. It was not the worst but, in the recent past, I can only think of one other which was worse. Would we go there again? Not to eat I don’t think but maybe for the coffee.
Java House Restaurant
Pier 40, The Embarcadero, San Francisco CA 94107
August 13 2010 | Breakfast Log | 2 Comments »
One of these guys won
The Bay to Breakers is the quintessential San Francisco event of the year. You want to know what San Franciscans are like – come watch Bay to Breakers on the third Sunday in May. A complete cross section of the community lets their hair down and has fun. It is called Bay to Breakers because it starts at the Bay on the east and finishes at the ocean on the west. The course is 7.46 miles (12 kilometers) and has the grueling climb up Hayes Street Hill at about the 2.5 mile mark.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
The event started in 1912 and has been run every year since then making this the 99th year and is the longest held consecutively run footrace in the world. It was started as a way to boost morale in the city after the 1906 earthquake and over the years it has evolved. Women did not take part in the early days and it wasn’t until the 1960′s that they could officially register. Now there are several distinct groups which take part, seeded and non-seeded runners, centipedes and floats. Additionally a lot of the participants run in costume and some are naked.
First of the centipedes to come through
After our disappointing breakfast at Joe’s Cafe on Geary Blvd, we headed back towards Golden Gate Park and parked on 7th Avenue. From there it was a short walk to the park. Once inside we headed towards the Conservatory of Flowers on John F. Kennedy Drive, passing an area where aficionados of Tai Chi were meeting and greeting before starting their routine. One curiosity I noticed along the way, a fallen log had been adapted to look like a crocodile complete with a piece of yellow police tape tied round its neck.
Bay to Breakers starts at 8 am. This year there were expected to be 60,000 taking part. They all start at the same time with the seeded and sub seeded runners in the front, with the rest of the pack at the back. The floats bring up the rear. We arrived just after 8 so the first runners were already well on their way. There were quite a few people lining the route and a group of slow moving police motor cyclists were driving by. We took up our position looking up at the beautiful Conservatory of Flowers on the other side of the road.
Some Brits perhaps?
Last year there were a lot of complaints from residents about the behavior of some participants and spectators; drunkenness and rowdiness being the main complaints. The rules have been tightened up and both police and race officials would crack down on any such wrong doers.
The weather at this time of the year is usually warm and sometimes very hot indeed. Not so this year. The sky was overcast and it was decidedly chilly. I was glad I had my sweatshirt with me.
The road was completely clear and then just after 8.15 we spotted three cars driving slowly towards us. As the cars drew level we spied the first runner – a woman. Couldn’t see her number because the cars hid most of her. Several other women were just behind. Of course I was expecting a man to be first but then concluded that the seeded women runners started before the men. Not long afterwards the first two men passed next and neck. They were dressed identically and their numbers were 21 and 24. I’m sure one of them was the winner – Sammy Kirop Kitwara from Kenya in 34 minutes and 15 seconds. He won last year as well. Lineth Chepkururi was the first woman to cross the finish line and she was also from Kenya.
More and more runners passed us, some of them in costume. Then the first centipede approached. A centipede is a group of 13 runners connected by a rope. The lead centipede was three deep. An additional runner, who is not attached, runs alongside shouting out instructions. At the point they passed us the additional runner was barking out frantic instructions. Just ahead were three photographers standing on step ladders stretched all across the road and getting the centipede to pass between two step ladders whilst maintaining their speed and momentum was a tricky maneuver.
Then the first naked runner streaked past. He was a serious runner and was hell bent on being the first one in that category to finish. He wore
Some folks wore costumes. Others not so much.
running shoes and carried his bunched up shorts in his hand. I guess they have to be wearing at least shorts when they cross the line.
I expect total nudity on a public street doesn’t happen in too many cities and normally of course it would not be allowed here but Bay to Breakers is a San Francisan tradition. I remember the first time Tom took me to Bay to Breakers a couple of years after I moved here, probably in 2003. Having led a sheltered existence in chilly England, I was just not expecting to see total nudity. On that occasion I was surprised when I saw my first naked runner. I thought I was seeing things. Of course Tom was waiting to see my reaction and I tried hard to act as if it was no big deal. As more and more liberated people passed me by the novelty wore off and to be truthful the many and varied costumes all around were far more interesting to look at.
On that first occasion, it was a very warm day and there seemed to be a lot of naked runners. This year it was cold and I did not think there were quite so many people in the buff. Maybe the weather did have something to do with it. One couple looked a bit odd because they were nude apart from the jackets they wore on their top halves to keep them warm.
There were a lot of joggers, most of them in costume but the biggest group were the walkers – those just taking part and having fun. I did notice that there were a lot of people walking the route who did not have official numbers on them. Maybe they didn’t register and just thought they would join in.
All kinds of costumes
The main attraction had to be the wonderful assortment of costumes. I saw lots of people in full body suits including bunnies, monsters, roman soldiers and a square pants sponge bob. There were lots of super heroes, cavemen, hula skirts complete with coconut bras, clowns, brides, prom dresses, night attire, men dressed as women, women dressed as men and Elvis was very much alive. There was one group dressed as bananas and another of whoopee cushions. Some people did not go for full costumes but donned wigs, dress suits or tutus.
Just along from us was a huge banner proclaiming ‘Fear God’ and a guy with a microphone preaching to the competitors. The serious runners completely ignored him, the less serious runners paid him scant attention but lots of them showed their displeasure by shouting back or gesticulating. Several people mooned him but he carried on regardless, regaling everybody with doom and gloom.
The onlookers lining the route gave lots of support and encouragement to the runners, joggers and walkers and there was interaction between all people. For instance I was wearing my University of Oregon sweatshirt and many people shouted out ‘Go Ducks’ or gave me the big O. Everybody was happy and were thoroughly enjoying themselves. I read afterwards that there were many reports of people getting drunk but we certainly didn’t see any evidence of that.
I say everybody was happy but there was one guy who left a bad taste in everybody’s mouth who heard him rant at rave at a security guy. He was not a participant in the race but an onlooker but he sure had a problem and was definitely in need of an anger management course. The security guy did not rise to the bait and deserves praise for remaining calm the whole time.
We stayed until just after 11 and still the walkers were passing. I did notice that some people were walking back through the crowd. Maybe they were going back to the start to where their cars were parked. I heard someone refer to them as ‘spawning salmon’ which I thought was very apt.
On our way back to the car we did notice that one group of onlookers had thoroughly made themselves at home by bringing their couch with them. We were pleased when we finally reached the car to get the chance to warm up before driving home.
May 22 2010 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | 3 Comments »
View of San Francisco from Twin Peaks
Today we were a bit confused when we woke up. I have a radio wave clock and it showed the right time but Tom’s alarm was an hour ahead. It took some time to work that that in fact the clocks had gone back an hour during the night.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We hope it is not going to be foggy in the city today as we are off to Twin Peaks and the fantastic views of the bay and the city of San Francisco. It is a place I have never been to and have been keen to go to for a while. We are going to incorporate a stairway walk as well.
Our first stop was for breakfast and then it was off to find Twin Peaks. Fortunately we spotted a sign so followed it. The drive to the top was curvy and there were great glimpses of the fantastic views off to the right all the way up. Twin Peaks is exactly that – two identical peaks very close to each other. Round each peak is a one way road which is like a figure of 8. We headed for the small car park at the top. The Sutro Tower is one peak over.
My, the view is wonderful and almost 360 degrees. There was no fog but it was a bit hazy. We could see the San Francisco end of the Bay Bridge but not Oakland and the east bay. The top of the Golden Gate Bridge, Angel Island, Alcatraz and the whole of the city were laid out in front of us. The sun was bright so hoped the fog will burn off before we started our walk.
At first there were not many people around but within ten minutes a tour bus turned up and disgorged its passengers. Suddenly Tom was
Tourists, tourists, tourists.
surrounded by a horde of French people, chattering loudly, all vying to get the best view in their allotted 10 minute stop. One visitor actually climbed to the top of the raining and swayed precariously while her partner took a picture. Almost as foolhardy as the guy who climbed over the railings at the Grand Canyon to sit on the edge of the cliff to have his photo taken. Then another tour bus arrived, this time the passengers were Japanese. They were far more thoughtful and courteous and didn’t crowd Tom or stand in front of his camera. I’m not decrying the French per se but was interested to see how differently the two cultures behaved.
While Tom clicked away I tried to pick out the landmarks. Of course the Transamerica Pyramid and the Bank of American buildings were easily spotted. Coit Tower was more difficult but I found it eventually. I worked out where Golden Gate Park was but only the extreme eastern end and the Pan Handle could be seen. There were a couple of hilltops nearby but didn’t know what they were. I checked Google Maps when I got home. The larger one was the Buena Vista Park and the smaller one Corona Heights Playground where the Randall Museum is situated. On a clear day we would be able to see Mounts Tamalpais and Diablo. We will have to come one morning before the sun rise – that would be a great shot.
The first two tour buses departed but their places were soon taken by two more buses. It was time to make a move before more buses arrived and we were completely crowded out.
We drove down Twin Peaks Blvd towards the city to find the start of our staircase walk – No. 13 in the third edition of Adah Bakalinsky’s ‘Stairway Walks in San Francisco’ – at the Iron Alley Stairway on Clayton Street. We found it without difficulty but painted on the stairway was a sign saying the staircase was closed. Finding somewhere to park was a bit of a problem but in the end we struck lucky and found a very convenient place right at the top of the Iron Alley Stairway on Corbett Avenue.
Twin Peaks homes perched on the hillside. That's the Sutro Tower in the back.
We started the walk by crossing Corbett and up Iron Alley to Graystone Terrace. Looking up the hill it was fascinating to see not only the many different types of house built on the side of the hill but also to wonder at the views they must have of the city beneath them. Taking a left on Graystone we walked to Cooper Alley where we descended a concrete stairway between houses back to Corbett. Here we took another left and passed Rooftop Elementary School with its sparkling tile mural on the wall arriving back at our car, which we walked right past carrying on towards Clayton. Along this section we looked up the hill again and could see the scenic viewpoint on Twin Peaks were we had been just half an hour before.
At the junction or Corbett and Clayton is a small garden strip along the side of the house which is beautifully laid out and well stocked with small trees and shrubs, including a lantana growing vertically in a pot. We have lantana in our garden and it is a ground cover plant. I have never seen it growing vertically before. On Clayton we turned left, climbing uphill to Twin Peaks Blvd. We were surprised at how quiet everything was with very few people around. We passed one guy outside his garage repairing his motorcycle and that was the first person we had seen, apart from a jogger who passed us earlier.
Between the houses to our right we caught glimpses of the city and the, when we turned left on Twin Peaks Blvd we got some glorious views of Golden Gate Park, including the De Young Museum, the two towers of the Golden Gate Bridge and out beyond the Bonita lighthouse to the ocean. There is an open patch of ground at the foot of a rocky outcrop which is called Tank Hill. While Tom took photos, I perched myself on a small rock and looked over the rooftops to the north.
Onwards and upwards to a short wooden stairway which led to the top of Tank Hill. There is a covered reservoir on the top which you could walk over. There are a lot of reservoirs up here on Twin Peaks where water for San Francisco is stored.
A little further uphill there was a small outcrop of rocks and another outstanding view of the city but this time from a different angle. The haze had cleared and we can now see Oakland clearly but Mount Diablo was vaguely discernible in the background. There was a slight breeze up there but it felt good and it carried the wonderful smell of eucalyptus to me.
Back down on Twin Peaks Blvd where it bears left at the junction with Clarendon Avenue there is a small public garden where we sat in the shade for a few minutes on a stone bench. We continued walking on Twin Peaks Blvd and passed a big blue house with enormous windows and we spotted a white grand piano inside. At the junction with Raccoon Drive we turned left and walked past some very nice houses. About halfway along we passed what looked like a stone sculpture but on closer inspection it turned out to be made of styrofoam. Raccoon Drive descended and at the
Pemberton Place. A lovely stairway.
bottom we turned left. I knew it was a dead end road with a pathway through to Crown Terrace but Tom didn’t know and became worried that I was walking through somebody’s garden. There was a sign that said ‘Residents Only’ and ‘No Trespassing’ but according to Adah’s book it was a legitimate way through.
Crown Terrace is a gem and surely a highly desirable place to live. Here you are within a short distance of the city but away from a lot of traffic. A short way along is Pemberton Place which in reality is a long stairway crossing Graystone and Villa Terrace and descends all the way back to Clayton. It is a marvelous stairway with occasional landings where you can sit and admire the view over the city. Back on Clayton we turned right and then right again onto Corbett and made our way back to the car.
As I was about to get into the car, a young man came out of a nearby house and approached the Iron Alley stairway and started to descend. I stopped him and asked why there was a sign at the bottom which said it was closed. He said it had been closed for some time for repair and a gate was put at the top to prevent children using it to get to the school as it was dangerous. The gate is still there but is not locked any more and the stairway has been repaired. The sign at the bottom has not been removed though. We’ll remember that next time.
We have had another interesting day, discovering Twin Peaks and then enjoying the staircase walk and all it cost was the price of the gas and breakfast at the Squat and Gobble. How’s that for good value?
December 10 2009 | Neighborhoods and Special Places | No Comments »
The West Portal Squat and Gobble in San Francisco
We are on our way to Twin Peaks today and passed this breakfast place en route. Who could resist such a name?
The Squat and Gobble is right next to the Muni west portal tunnel, right on the corner of Portola West and Vicente. There are little tables and wrought iron chairs outside. Inside it is large and bright with soft guitar music playing in the background.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The first thing you see as you walk in the door is a huge blackboard with their whole, extensive, menu written up, inter-spaced with colorful drawings of the food. Here you choose and pay for your food before you find a table and sit down, clutching your order number on its little stand in your hand.
Tom ordered the Triple Gobbler, which consisted of two pancakes, two eggs and two apple sausages for $9.25. There was granola on the board but no oatmeal. I did ask if they did oatmeal and was told they did. Great. I was also asked if I wanted it made with water or milk. This made me question whether it is made straight out of a packet and heated in a microwave. They assured me it wasn’t so I went for it. I was tempted by the choice of pancakes but resisted.
A long padded bench is fixed along the outside wall and the tables are small but can be pushed together. Covering the whole of one wall is a mural showing food in the foreground, including a bottle of Squat and Gobble wine, and a a scenic view in the background. There is a back section as well where they have framed pictures on the wall of food.
Tom’s coffee was brought first and he was impressed. It was good and strong. He thought it was as good as Peet’s. Then the food arrived and there was plenty of it. Tom’s came on a big white plate and my oatmeal in a very large glass bowl on a round white plate. It was topped with a liberal serving of bananas and strawberries. I had asked for mine to be made with milk so no milk came separately. I asked for and received a small jug of milk. The oatmeal had cinnamon on it and was good. There was too much for me to eat it all and I left some. That’s a first for me!
The restroom was one of the better ones. It was large and clean with plenty of hot water. There was one picture on the wall of a couple dancing. In the corner was a potted plant on a nice stand. The mirror was large and I liked the matt silver frame.
Our conclusion – lots of food, quick efficient service, pleasant surroundings and the food was good. Would we come here again? Yes and next time I’ll have the pancakes.
Squat and Gobble
1 W Portal Ave
San Francisco, CA
December 05 2009 | Breakfast Log | 2 Comments »
Our choice for breakfast was the Irving Street Cafe. Leaving The Spire in the Pesidio, we drove along Aguello Blvd, through the Gold Gate Park and
Irving Street Cafe, San Francisco
somehow found ourselves on Irving Street.
Irving Street Cafe has a rather grand green awning over the sidewalk but the interior is far from grand. In fact it is dimly lit, tiny and basic. Not only that but it was packed. We did manage to find one empty table. There are just two tables in the window, six sets of tables and chairs along the wall and 9 stools at the counter. It was bustling and lively though and obviously a favorite of the locals.
There was no oatmeal on the menu. When did I last have oatmeal when we were out for breakfast I wonder? Moan, moan. The menu is also basic and the specials are under the glass top of the table. This is a typical greasy spoon so I went the whole hog and ordered Chicken-Apple Sausage Omelet ($5). Tom ordered the Ground Sirloin Egg Platter ($6). Tom had water to drink and, for a change, I ordered hot chocolate (without the whipped cream).
While we waited (and waited and waited) for the food to arrive, I studied the surroundings. There were pictures on the walls but it was an odd assortment – two of vases of flowers; three Ansel Adams black and white prints; five signed photos, one of Chewbacca from Star Wars (presumably signed by Peter Mayhew), one of two boxers fighting in the ring, one of two unidentified twin girls, one of Robin William and the last but not least of Chris Isaak; and a large poster of a pop star who we did not recognize.
After half an hour our food finally arrived. By then I had long finished my hot chocolate which, by the way, was not that tasty and I guess it came straight from a sachet. I must say though that it was worth the wait as the food was good. The hash browns were really crispy and Tom said his eggs were done just right. The proof of the pudding, as they say, was that there was nothing left on our plates but a coating of grease and, in Tom’s case, a smear of egg yolk.
The restroom though was a different matter. I was not expecting much and that it what I got. To get to it, one has to walk through the prep area. Inside it is extremely grubby so I just washed my hands. There was one interesting article in there and that was an old 8oz container of sour cream which, on investigation, contained a dried up dish sponge. The only other bit of decoration was the plunger on the floor in the corner.
Would we come here again. Yes definitely. The food was wonderful and the prices unbelievable. I just won’t venture into the restroom again.
Irving Street Cafe
716 Irving Steet, San Francisco, CA 94122
October 23 2009 | Breakfast Log | No Comments »
It’s not far from Crissy Field to the Presidio – just follow the signs for Main Post.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
The Presidio in San Francisco, California
Within no time at all we were in the main square of the Presidio. In the middle is a large car park, which used to be the parade ground when the Presidio was at its zenith. On one side of the parade ground is a row of handsome brick buildings which used to be the Montgomery Street Barracks. The plan is to convert the parking lot into a green park and to refurbish the barracks into restaurants, galleries and cultural spaces. One of the buildings has been completed and is the Walt Disney Family Museum which opened its doors on October 1 this year. One day we will come and view it, but that will have to wait until the crowds have died down; although at 8 a.m. on a Saturday morning all was quiet and peaceful.
Tom parked the car and wandered off to take a few photos of the buildings while I stayed in the car and wrote my journal. Not much seemed to be going on around us. Even the Visitors Center was not open.
We then drove up the hill to The Spire. We last visited in January this year and were keen to check it out again. At the Inspiration Point car park we indicated to turn into it but it was closed off. There was a sign saying it was temporarily closed today. I wonder why? We drove a little further and turned into the Presidio Golf Club car park. Fortunately there were no signs saying we could not park there.
From there is was a short climb up to The Spire. The area is known as Aguello Gate and the path leads to the Bay Area Ridge Trail. Alongside the path were a stack of enormous felled Monterey Cypress trees. A sign nearby said the they had been felled as they were decaying. They will be replaced by young Monterey Cypress trees next year. It is all part of a well planned restoration project. The smell of resin from the felled trees was intoxicating.
Andy Goldsworthy's, "The Spire" in The Presidio
Further on there was another stack of felled trees and they formed a convenient bench. I sat in the sun and looked around me. In front of me, towering high into the sky, was The Spire which was the inspiration of Andy Goldsworthy. Around the base of the spire were 100 young Monterey Cypress trees. On our visit in January they had just been planted and the area round the spire was clear apart from the tiny seedlings and the sticks supporting them. Today the view was different. The small trees and sticks were still there, although some of the seedlings had not survived, but weeds have sprouted all around each sapling completily hiding the tiny trees. I guess that was bound to happen. Hopefully on our next visit the trees will be higher than the weeds.
Tom had wandered off to take photos so I sat on my comfortable perch writing up my journal. I must say it was a great place to be. I leaned back and rested against another felled tree. The view was magnificent, not just of The Spire but I could see Alcatraz sparkling like a jewel out in the bay. What with the warmth of the sun and the resiny smell, surely this was the place to be on this fine Saturday morning. I could have stayed there for hours just drinking in the sights sounds and smells all around me and watching runners jog past but Tom beckoned so I went to join him.
He had explored further up the path to where it joined the Bay Ridge Trail and he thought there would be a good view ahead of the bay as we were quite high there. The trail skirted the golf course. The reason I knew this was because I spotted a golf cart. The view never materialized and the path we chose came to a dead end at the base of a disused tower – probably a fire look out – next to a covered reservoir. The tower was defended by an impenetrable barrier of barbed and razor wire. The main intention was that nobody should be able to climb the tower.
We turned back and returned to the car and set off to find somewhere for breakfast.
October 13 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
Tents, tents and more tents at the 3-Day Event at Crissy Field
Another expedition to San Francisco but this time by car. As usual we left early, with a full moon shining brightly in front of us for most of the way up Highway 280. Once again, we are not quite sure what the weather will be like. We know it will be cooler than the last few days but will it be foggy?
Our first stop today was at Crissy Field. At this time of the morning we were expecting to have the place more or less to ourselves. Boy, were we wrong! The first thing which told us there was something going on was the sea of pink tents pitched on the grass near the fitness center. Then we spotted a large marquee beyond the tents with a smaller awning nearby. In the early morning gloom we could people, mostly ladies in pink tops and shorts walking about. We passed a huge trailer which was a mobile shower and another trailer which proclaimed it to be the Command Center for the Breast Cancer 3 Day Event. The place was a hive of activity with a long lines in front of the porta potties and outside the smaller tent where breakfast was being served onto paper plates. Loud music came from the big marque where hundreds of people were seating eating their breakfast.
I wandered past the breakfast tent and the food smelt good. There was scrambled egg, bacon, cereal and, would you believe it, oatmeal. I glanced into the marquee and they were just starting the warm up routine. Over the loudspeaker they were being encouraged to bend and stretch in time with the music. Now all of this was at 7 a.m. When I got home I checked The 3-Day site and learned that they were walking 20 miles a day over the three days. I silently wished them good luck.
Tom and I walked towards the Warming Hut, leaving the bustle behind us. But we were not alone. Also on the path were the usual motley
Golden Gate Bridge from Crissy Field
assortment of dogs with their owners, walkers and joggers. The Golden Gate Bridge towered in front of us, dwarfing Fort Point which is beneath the southern end of the bridge.
Just opposite the Warming Hut, which is a beacon of rest and refreshment but unfortunately doesn’t open until 9 a.m., is a small jetty. Already positioned on it were several anglers and a few photographers. We wandered along it and while Tom took photos I observed what was going on. One fisherman was emptying a couple of large, plump starfish onto the ground. I didn’t stay around to see what he did with them. Did he throw them back into the water I wonder or did he take them home? The view from the jetty was quite outstanding. In one direction the bridge, in front was Angel Island and to the right Alcatraz and the city. A line of brown pelicans flew overhead and then swooped to pass under the bridge.
Then it was back to the car so we could make our way to our second stop of the day – The Presidio.
October 10 2009 | Neighborhoods | 2 Comments »
Upstairs on Caltrain
For a variety of reason, we have not been doing much traveling lately. On Sunday though we had tickets to go and see the SF Giants play the Chicago Cubs in the last game of a four game series. The Cubs had won the first three games. The game started at 1.05 and Tom and I were pondering how we were going to get to AT&T Park. We normally drive all the way up and park next to the stadium in a parking lot but the charge is $30. There are several alternatives. We could have driven up to Millbrae and caught BART to Market Street and then taken Muni; or we could have driven up to 3rd and 16th, found some on-street parking where there are no parking meters; or we could have driven up to Oakland and caught the ferry across to AT&T Park. In the end, we did none of those. Instead we drove into San Jose and caught Caltrain all the way up to San Francisco.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
We caught the 10.00 am train and sat upstairs. I have been on Caltrain before but never upstairs. I thought there were only single seats upstairs but there is one double on each side in every carriage and we were lucky to snag one of those. I spent most of the time looking out of the window and very little in reading my book.
Obviously I can’t recall everything I saw but I can recount the highlights. My first impressions were not what you would call highlights though. Rusty rails strewn alongside the tracks, rank weeds, fences with razor wire on the top and lots of graffiti. The houses which backed onto the railway were a bit mean as well with piles of rubbish in some places which had been tipped over the fence. But raising my eyes over the mean houses gave me a view of the mountains in the distance and they were a far better sight.
Just before we came to the Sunnyvale Station we passed the apartment block Tom and I lived in for the first year of our marriage. It was a lovely
Out front of AT&T Park waiting for Tom's Brother
apartment, the only problem being the trains that passed close by. In the middle of the night a freight train would lumber by which rocked the place but the most annoying feature were the whistles which some drivers sounded very enthusiastically as they passed our apartment.
From Sunnyvale to San Bruno the scenery changed to be very pleasing, apart from the fact that we passed lots of our old haunts. At Mountain View they hold a farmers market on a Sunday morning and that was in full swing as we passed by. It is one of the best farmers markets in the area. The best has to be Sunnyvale on a Saturday because of the shady street with the cafes on the sidewalk where you can sit and have breakfast or drink a cup of coffee while drinking in the sights and smells. There are no cafes near the farmers market in Mountain View and no shady trees to sit under.
Passing San Antonio reminded me of a trip I took on Caltrain from Sunnyvale to Stanford shopping center with my daughter a few years back. The railway conductor had a very distinctive way of talking and when she announced the name of the station it came out as ‘Saaaaaaaan AAAAAntOOOnio’. Every time I see a sign for San Antonio I mimic her rendition.
At California Street we saw the Farmers Market down the main street. This is one we have not been too but we must go some day. Next stop was Palo Alto. From the train we could see the entrance to Stanford University and some of the palm trees lining Palm Drive but the distinctive buildings of the university could not be seen. From the train station it an easy walk to the fabulous Stanford Shopping Center.
Between the California Street and Palo Alto stations is a bike track, which was being well used. I wonder how far it goes. The original station building at Menlo Park Station is the oldest station in California. It has been refurbished over the years but is still a charming building.
Atherton was our next stop and this is a really nice location. It was once described as a “plain of oaks” and it still is. Looking down into the gardens of the houses we passed, they all had large shady trees and many of them were well established. Redwood City is an interesting place. From the train we could see a large painting on the side of a building. It depicted a lady in medieval dress sitting in a boat. I’m not 100% sure but I’m guessing it was from the ‘Lady of Shalott’ which was a poem by Alfred, Lord Tenyson. Here is a short quote:
‘Down she came and found a boat
Beneath a willow left afloat,
And around about the prow she wrote
The Lady of Shalott.’
Just past the station, near the railway crossing, is an old sign which used to be on El Camino. It boldly proclaims ‘Redwood City – Climate Best By Government Test’. To read why the town claims this distinction check out this website.
San Carlos station was next. Here the tracks are raised and below, on the station forecourt, there was another farmers market. Tom pointed out the unusual station house building which was more or less hidden by the raised tracks. This one was almost as old as the one at Menlo Park but completely different architecture. San Carlos station is built from gray stone blocks unlike the conventional wooden structure at Menlo Park.
Margaret, Tom's Step-Mom, Arlene, Tom's Dad and Brother Jeffrey
Yet another farmers market was being held at Belmont station. Tom used to live in Belmont when he was a little boy and remembers driving with him Mum to collect his Dad from the station in the evening. The next few stations are unimpressive. Hillsdale used to be the station for Bay Meadows racetrack but that closed down in 2005. There is, of course, the big shopping mall at Hillsdale.
Burlingame has a very impressive station building. It’s architecture is Mission-Revival style and is painted bright yellow and is now a museum. Tom was born in Burlingame.
The next few stations are OK but not outstanding apart from the clock at Milbrae which showed the wrong time and the date as January 2, 1995! Once passed San Bruno things began to deteriorate again. The only thing which impressed me was the graffiti. OK I know graffiiti is a blot on the landscape and taken as a whole really gives a neglected look but some of the individual paintings are very artistic and far more colorful than the specimens displayed near San Jose.
Just before 11.45 we arrived in San Francisco and joined the merry throng walking down King Street to the AT&T stadium. Most of the fans were dressed in the Giants colors but there were a good few Cubs fans in amongst us. And it was a beautiful day. We stopped at Starbucks for a cup of coffee as we had at least half an hour to wait before we met up with Tom’s Dad and Arlene and his brother Jeff by the Willie Mays statue outside the stadium. It was an invigorating experience being a part of the hustle and bustle outside the station. Of course there were the scalpers selling tickets and parking passes for the game, street performers and the occasional homeless person with their handwritten signs. There were also stands selling programs and memorabilia. More interesting TV cameras were set up to televise the pre-game show. The majority of movement though came from the fans pouring into the stadium not only from the train station but also from the car parks on the other side of the Lefty O’Doule Bridge and the muni station on King Street.
Eventually the five of us all found each other and we made our way into the stadium. We went through the wrong entrance but we didn’t find out
Batter Up!
until we left the stadium. Our tickets were in Field Club and we entered through the Willie Mays Plaza entrance and walked up the ramp to the Promenade level. From there we were directed to an section but we had to walk all the way down to the bottom, back through a tunnel and into the right section. We almost gave up but eventual we found our seats in Section 109, Row O. They were great seats midway between home plate and first base.
There is nothing more American than a baseball game. All the razzmatazz of the game beforehand and then the music, exhortations to shout, stand and make a loud noise during the game; the large scoreboard giving a wealth of information including replays of each ball; the seventh inning stretch and then of course there is the game itself. Being so close to the action we saw more of the expressions from the players and the occasional comments. We were also in line to catch a foul ball although none came close enough to attempt a catch. It was a great game and both sides played very well but the Giants won so that put the cherry on the cake as far as our day was concerned. We sat there enjoying ourselves immensely, eating hot dogs and ice creams (though I made a mess with mine when it melted all over my jeans and sweatshirt) and drinking beer and lemonade. We clapped every good hit and catch, no matter which side executed it, and groaned whenever a home run was never quite achieved. We stayed right to the end and stood, clapped and cheered as the teams left the field.
Then we made our way out of the stadium through the food court entrance without having to climb any stairs. Tom and I made our way back to the station, crossing the roads with hundreds of others and taking up the whole of the sidewalk. At the station we were lucky to get onto the non stop to San Carlos train which cut the journey by half an hour. It was the end of a perfect day.
October 04 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
Yerba Buena Gardens opposite SFMOMA
After our breakfast at Dottie’s in the Tenderloin – see previous post – we drove down Jones and across Market to Howard, where we turned left towards the Moscone Center. Parking is always a problem in San Francisco but we found a car park on 3rd and Folsom where we could park for $10 all day.
(Click the images for larger versions. You’ll need to if you want to find Waldo in the last photo)
The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, affectionately known as SFMOMA, was just a short walk away but we had some time to kill as it didn’t open until 10 am. We wandered around the outside of the Moscone Center, which is a huge conference/convention complex. It is named after George Moscone, a former mayor of San Francisco who was assassinated in 1978.
Then we sauntered around the Yerba Buena Gardens opposite SFMOMA. It has been some time since we visited this part of town and the gardens have become well established. Outside the Yerba Buena Center for Arts a dozen couples were having dancing lessons. It was a quickstep. I only knew this because occasionally I heard ‘slow, quick, quick slow’. Most of the other directions were given in Chinese. It was mesmerizing to watch them. The dance itself seemed to be quite slow and deliberate, almost like Tai Chi. There were also several groups on the grass in the middle of the gardens doing Tai Chi, including one gentlemen who did a bit and then sat in an electric wheelchair. I couldn’t help but admire the man.
I took a seat on a stone bench in front of the huge water feature and enjoyed people watching and writing while Tom wandered off . Although it
SFMOMA as seen from Yerba Buena Gardens
was overcast to begin with, the sun came out before too long but there was a bit of a breeze. Definitely not shorts and T-shirt weather. I looked towards the SFMOMA building which seems to be dwarfed by the buildings around it but it is a striking building. It’s main architectural feature is the huge skylight in the front. It resembles the vent on the deck of a ship in its shape but has black and white strips.
Just before 10 we walked across the road to the SFMOMA and bought tickets at the kiosk outside. It cost $28 for the two of us – senior citizens price – and this included entrance to the Georgia O’Keefe and Ansel Adams Natural Affinities Exhibition, which is the main reason for our visit today. This exhibition will be at SFMOMA until September 9 this year. We walked into the vast foyer but had to wait there. Both the stairs and the elevators were cordoned off until, at the stroke of 10, they were removed. Tom and I walked up to the third floor. We reasoned it would be quicker than waiting for a lift.
On the third floor, we shuffled in with a host of other people. At first it was difficult to get a clear view of the paintings and photographs with folks walking in front or pressing from behind but it soon thinned out as people wandered off in different directions. Tom is into black and white photography and I’m into color, so George O’Keefe’s vivid paintings attracted me far more than Ansel Adams stark photography. Her early paintings were a bit depressing for my taste but loved the New Mexico collection, especially ‘Black Mesa Landscape’ and ‘In the Patio III’. I must admit to liking Ansel Adams photo of ‘St Francis Church, Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico’. Tom’s favorites were ‘Early Morning, Merced River’, ‘Cedar Tree, Winter, Yosemite’, ‘Old Tree, Snowstorm, Yosemite’, Vine and Rock, Island of Hawaii’ and ‘Detail, Juniper Wood, Sierra Nevada’ – all by Ansel Adams of course.
The walkway at the top. You can see all the way to the bottom. OK Margaret what ever you do DO NOT LOOK DOWN.
After a pleasant hour browsing the exhibition we explored the rest of the museum. We decided to climb the stairs to the fourth floor but I was sidetracked by something drawn high up on a wall with apparatus hanging down from a walkway above so I asked a nearby attendant. He started to explain but then pointed to a notice on the wall. The graffiti like drawing was drawn by Matthew Barney on June 9, 2006 and is entitled ‘Drawing Restraint 14′. On that day he climbed the wall dressed as General Douglas MacArthur, navigating himself by hand holds up the wall and by carabines attached to the underside of the walkway to get the wall on the far side. From there he swung himself in a hoist to execute the drawing right under a window.
Satisfied that I had unraveled that poser, I ascended the curved staircase to the fifth floor, pausing to look through a window down towards Yerba Buena Gardens, before arriving at the walkway I had looked at from below. Some of you may know that I have no head for heights and this walkway was not only high up and narrow but was constructed of perforated steel – very scary. Tom had already crossed it so the least I could do was to walk across it as well. I took a deep breath and went for it, keeping my eyes on a large mural on the wall in front. The main exhibits here are under the heading ‘Between Art on Life’, which will be on display until January 3, 2010. Many interesting sculptures and other diverse artworks are on display and the most intriguing was a huge painting entitled ‘Princess of the Posse’ by Chris Ofili which was described as acrylic, collage, glitter, resin, map pins, and elephant dung on canvas. I loved the colors and the use of map pins but I’m not so sure about the elephant dung.
After looking at all the exhibits we wandered through the Coffee Bar and into the Roof Garden to view
Accross from SFMOMA we spotted Waldo. Can you? You might have to click so you can see the larger version.
the sculptures on display there. It is a very pleasant spot, with places to sit and relax and on top of that, it is a sun trap. There is a huge bronze statue by Louise Bourgeois entitled ‘The Nest’. Louise Bourgois is an amazing artist. Both this work and another piece by her entitled ‘Crouching Spider’, which was until recently was on display on the waterfront of the Embarcadero (part of the San Francisco Arts Commission’s Temporary Projects in Natural Settings Initiative), was in her nineties when she executed both pieces. Walking up the slope to the walkway I glanced out of the window and spotted a cardboard cutout of Waldo hiding between pipework on the roof of the building opposite.
We visited the third floor on our way down to view the Looking In: Robert Frank’s “The Americans” exhibition. This was a fascinating series of 83 photos taken between 1955 and 1956 of Americans and their way of life. The book “The Americans” was published in 1958 with an introduction by Jack Kerouac.
We decided to call it a day. There is so much more to see at SFMOMA but we will have to return another day.
July 14 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
Next »
