Mail Boxes heading towards San Gregorio
Back in November last year we set out to investigate the beaches and coastal access points on the San Mateo Coast. We didn’t have time to check out Pescadero State Beach so today that is our mission.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
At 7.30 we set off from home, driving first along Interstate 280 and Highway 84 to Alice’s Restaurant on Skyline Blvd (see previous post). The weather forecast said it was going to be a nice day but we were driving through low fog up to 280. As we joined the freeway, the fog was gone. Ahead the Santa Cruz Mountains were clear, bright and bathed in early morning sunshine.
After breakfast we continued on 84 towards San Gregorio. I don’t think we have ever driven to the coast this way before. We either drive to Santa Cruz and turn north on Highway 1 or we take 280 to Highway 92 towards Half Moon Bay and then drive south on Highway 1. It is amazing how different everything looks driving the other way. It is a glorious day so that makes things look new and exciting. At San Gregorio we turned right on Stage Coach Road. We stopped so Tom could take some photos. The view looking east, with rolling green hills, grazing cattle and distant hills was magnificent.
When we hit Highway 1 we turned south, driving past San Gregorio Beach and headed to Pescadero. The ocean looked stunning. At this time of
San Gregorio valley
the year the whales are heading south on their yearly migration and although they are long way out, I kept my eyes skimmed for the odd water spout on the far horizon.
There are three car parks for Pescadero State Beach and we stopped at the first one. From here, by crossing the road, there is a nice little trail round the lagoon and up the hill. Today though we started by checking out the beach. Ours was the only car in the car park. Before we set off for the beach we filled out the self registration form and paid our $7 fee. Normal price is $8 but we both can take advantage of the seniors rate.
As we walked towards the beach the sound of the surf was music to our ears. Tom told me that there is a high surf warning at the moment and he advised me not to turn my back to the ocean if I was near the water. A young girl was swept out to sea on the Sonoma coast recently. Fortunately her parents saved her but it must have been a frightening experience for the family.
The beach is sandy and would be perfect for young children. One word of advice though, the nearest place to buy refreshments is two miles away in Pescadero so take everything you need with you. We had the place to ourselves. Tom was busy taking photos and I wandered around. There was a tiny lagoon and just one structure made from driftwood. I found a handy log to sit on and sat in the sun enjoying the view. The only thing disturbing the peace and quiet was its proximity to Highway 1 and the sound of passing cars.
We started walking south down the beach and rounded a small headland to a long stretch of sandy beach. Still nobody else around, not even a dog with its owner. There were lots of footsteps in the sand above the high watermark so there must have been plenty of visitors over the last couple of days. As we walked we smelt something rather unpleasant. Tom thought we might have walked through something a dog had left behind but the source soon revealed itself. It was a dead seal. It had been there some time and the only way we could tell it was a seal was by its flipper and the shape of the head.
There were a few more driftwood structures here. One was not very high but it covered a largish area and was open. Logs had been placed round in a sort of circle facing a bower like structure so obviously had been some sort of meeting place. It is so beautiful here. I can sit or stand, gazing out to sea for hours and hours watching the surf breaking just offshore and rolling in, with the sun catching and highlighting lots of different colors and shades in the water and watching the pelicans skimming the surface of the ocean. There are no surfers here today but I’ sure this would be a great place to come. Maybe they are all a bit further north at Half Moon Bay taking on the Mavericks. It is usually at this time of the year the famous Mavericks meet takes pace.
I noticed there were a few other people around. A group had arrived at the north end of the beach and to the south I could see a couple standing on the headland looking out to sea.
Further down the sand was strewn with driftwood. What an adventure playground this would be for children. They could spend hours building to their hearts content. I’ve always wandered where the logs come from. Some pieces are huge. Are they carried in by the tide or are they washed downhill from the mountains by the streams and creeks which flow into the ocean?
I thought we could walk all the way to the most southerly car park but it wasn’t possible. The Butano Creek empties into the ocean and it is too wide to wade through. At this point, Highway 1 is a bridge across the creek. It is possible to climb up to the highway but from where I stood it looks a bit dangerous to cross the bridge safely by foot. What we did discover in the rocks of the headland was a small archway and we watched in fascination as the surf crashed and surged through it.
End of Part 1
January 29 2010 | Special Places | 3 Comments »
After our stop at Pomponio State Beach, it was time for breakfast and we headed for the only place between here and Santa Cruz – Gazos Grill -
Gazos Grill along the San Mateo Coast
which is halfway between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo. We had to slow down as we were passing the lighthouse and then stop for a roadblock. There was a sign warning of a bike race taking place and Highway 1 was down to one lane for a short stretch. Sure enough, there were lots of cyclists and the lighthouse was the turnaround point.
Due to the number of cyclists on the road we had to be careful pulling into the car park of Gazos Grill. There were several people along the way watching the race and at least one photographer sporting a big lens. When I got home I checked online to see what the bike race was all about. Apparently it was Big Kahuna Half Ironman Distance. It was due to start with a 1.2 mile swim around the wharf in Santa Cruz starting at 7 am but due to heavy fog it was cancelled. The 56 mile bike ride and the 13.6 run went ahead though.
The last time we visited Gazos Grill we back in November 2007. Then we were the only customers. Today it was reasonably busy thanks to the bike race I expect.
We picked one of the high tables in the window with a restricted view of the ocean but a good place to watch the bikes racing by.
There was no oatmeal on the menu but I remembered from last time that is is available sometimes. When the server came to take our order I asked and today it was available so, of course, that’s what I requested. With fruit it is $5.95. I also had toast ($1.75). Tom ordered the San Gregorio Eggs Benedict which came with smoked salmon ($14.95).
Gazos Grill used to go by the name of the Beach House and the sign is still outside. It is a large restaurant separated into two sections. Some evenings they have bands playing and over the next few weeks there are several dances and parties planned.
There are no booths or a counter so not your typical diner. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The place is adorned with a vast array of pictures and posters of lighthouses, whales, elephant seals and all things nautical. In fact, lighthouses seem to be the main theme. On one wall there is a vast net hanging on the wall with fish and shellfish sculptures fixed to it. On each table was a single, almost fresh, flower in a vase and a small pumpkin.
The oatmeal came in a large round bowl with sliced strawberries and bananas. The milk came in a very small brown ceramic jug . There was not enough milk so halfway through the meal I asked for some more, which was promptly brought to me.
The restrooms are on the far side of the restaurant and although pretty standard as far as basic facilities were concerned they were lavishly decorated with pictures. The nautical theme was carried through from the restaurant. There was a laminated poster of coral pinned to the wall, a colored photo of a local beach and a rather tatty picture of mussels taped to another wall. There were also six framed pictures of beach scenes and one of the ‘I Love Lucy Show’, which, of course, has nothing to do with anything nautical. Next to the wash basin was a jug with a fish on the front. Last time there was also an easy chair here but missing this time. One other comment, the water was brownish in color.
Our conclusion – on the plus side it’s in a convenient location and it’s interestingly decorated and my oatmeal was good with ample fruit but on the negative side, Tom said his eggs could have been cooked a bit more as they were a bit runny and on the whole the food is a bit expensive.
Gazos Grill
5720 Cabrillo Highway 1
Pescadero, CA 94060
November 30 2009 | Breakfast Log | Comments Off
The beach looked nice but not the way down.
The challenge we set for ourselves today was to investigate some of the coastal accesses south of Half Moon Bay on the San Mateo coast. We normally head for our favorite spots like Franklin Point or Pigeon Point but there are many other places, some of which are private and some are unofficial.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We checked the weather before we set off and it looked like it was going to be a great day. When we set off all seemed to be clear and no sign of fog. Imagine our surprise when we heard on the radio that there was a fog advisory for the San Mateo coast. We discussed whether going to the coast would be a good idea. Maybe we should revise our plan and head east. Eventually we decided to continue with our plans and if we ran into thick fog, we could turn around and go elsewhere.
There was a bit of low lying fog at the junction of Highways 280 and 92 but not bad enough to turn back. Driving into Half Moon Bay was clear. The weekend before the Half Moon Bay’s annual Pumpkin Festival was held and we passed many huge pumpkin patches still with lots of pumpkins exhibited for sale. I expect there will be loads of families turned up later in the day looking for the perfect pumpkin.
In Half Moon Bay, we stopped at a drive through coffee kiosk at the junction of Highway 92 and Main Street. Although it was lit up and the ‘Open’ sign was flashing, we were dubious that it was actually open for business but we were pleased to discover it was. A very courteous youth opened the window and sold us two strong cups of very hot coffee.
Through Half Moon Bay we headed south on Highway 1 looking out for signs which said ‘Coastal Access’. We passed a road which was called
San Gregorio Beach along the San Mateo Coast
Redondo Beach Road. Did that mean there was a beach at the end? We didn’t want to take the risk. The first brown ‘coastal access’ was at Miramontes Road so we turned right. We passed a very small car park but doubted whether that led to the beach so we carried on. What we didn’t realize was that at the end of the road was the very exclusive Ritz Carlton Hotel with it’s expensive golf course attached and there was no stopping unless we were headed to one or the other. It was just after 7 and we were surprised how many people were not only out on the course but were still turning up. We beat a hasty retreat and headed back to the one small car park we had passed earlier.
At one time all the headland would have been accessible but when the land was bought and the hotel built I guess they had to provide some public access to the beach. The very small car park and one right of way to the beach, which cuts through the golf course, was their token of compliance. We did not bother to investigate any further and carried on with our quest.
We passed two marked roads to the beach but they were closed off. Our next stop was at an unmarked access. To the right was a wide gravel shoulder with a couple of overnight camper vans parked. The only point of reference was a blue San Mateo call box sign – telephone number SM001-205. The access was downhill and very steep but we went for it.
The path was twisty and deeply rutted. The recent heavy rains have gouged a deep crevice all the way down and the ground is still damp and slightly muddy. The view were spectacular though. Off to the right the sheer cliff extends into the ocean, probably the Ritz Carlton is on that peninsula. Tom stopped to take photos so I clambered on down but could not make it all the way to the beach. It is possible but the final stretch was via an unstable almost vertical drop with just a collection of tatty ropes tied to stunted bushes to prevent a headlong fall. At my age, I don’t think so. I intercepted Tom before he reached that point and we climbed back up the steep incline. At least we know not to come here again.
We drove on to San Gregorio Beach. This is a state managed beach with a proper car park right on the beach. There is a fee to be paid. At 8.30 in the morning the kiosk was unmanned but there are envelopes available to post your fee. The charges are $8 for day use ($7 for seniors) but if does allow you to use all the state beaches on the same day.
Egret at Pomponio Beach
Tom and I have been to this beach several times and each time it is different. For some reason a lot of driftwood is washed up here – mostly huge logs. I wonder where they all come from? There are always temporary structures built with this driftwood and today was no exception. One looked like a log cabin. Maybe somebody was sleeping inside. The beach itself is sandy with a large lagoon. Of course, the lagoon is always a different shape each time we come. There are notices up telling anglers not to breach the lagoon because it will kill the fish. I took a short walk along the beach and then found a convenient log to sit on and write. The sun was beginning to warm everything up.
The next state beach is Pomponio. This is very much like San Gregorio but here both the lagoon and the amount and size of the driftwood is on a smaller scale. No driftwood structures here but what was man made were a couple of huge forts made out of sand. They had obviously been made yesterday and beyond reach of high tide. I also noticed washed up on the bach lots of tiny dead white crabs. The cliffs here are interesting as well because they are high and studded with rows of small stones.
We by-passed Pescadero State Beach, which has three access pooints, due not only to lack of time but it deserves an entry all to itself at a later date. It was here we took a breakfast break – see next entry.
Our next and last beach stop was at Bean Hollow State Beach. There is a car park at each end and we used the sourthern end. This is one of our
Strange rocks at Bean Hollow State Beach
favorite beaches as it has everything that we look for in a beach – scenic views, lots of wave action, sandy and little used. Once again the rocks were interesting but completely different from Pomponio. Here they are sandstone (I think) but with lots of holes in them which made them look like honeycomb. One of the taller rocks, looking at it from a distance, reminds me of a man made town on a mountainside. Tom and I both have different interpretations as to how the holes are formed. Tom thinks they are caused by wave action whilst I believe the holes were made by burrowing shellfish of some kind. If anybody out there knows the answer, we would be interested to hear from you.
I walked to the end of the beach to see if there was any way through to the northern end. The tide was fairly high so could not make much progress along the beach although it may be possible to clamber over the rocks. At the top of the beach I noticed a footpath which heads over the bluffs so ventured along it a little way. Indeed there is a trail alongside the road which goes to the other end. I discovered a secluded little cove where a couple were enjoying a picnic. It was a perfect location protected from the wind, unless the breeze was coming off the ocean.
The weather turned out to be glorious in the end. The slight early morning haze had completely disappeared with tempretures up in the 70’s. Thank goodness we did not change our plans.
Although we checked out quite a few coastal access locations, there are several we did not have the time to do today. Apart from Pescadero State Beach, there is also Gazos Creek, Pigeon Point and one other place between Bean Hollow and Pigeon Point. We’ll have to save those for another day.
Nice scene in Pescadero
We decided to take another route home past Butano State Park and along Pescadero Creek Road to cross Skyline Blvd. But first of all a short stop in Pescadero. It is always a pleasure to revisit this special place. Duartes Tavern was bustling. I noticed that the signs for ‘The Rock Guy’ were not on the telegraph posts in the street. When I got home I checked online and found one small reference to the fact that he died this past winter. Another local ‘character’ that will be missed.
We had a look round Made in Pescadero. We love their hand made furniture and the smell of wood but the prices are a little out of our budget. In Arcangeli’s Country Bakery we bought some sourdough garlic bread, just out of the oven, and half a pound of mild cheddar cheese. Just right for a little picnic. There were signs in the store to say they now had a picnic area at the back of the store next to the Pescadero Creek. So we went to have a look. It is always interesting to check out buildings from the back. The picnic area is nice and quiet and there was nobody else around. On our stroll back to the street, Tom pointed out some flowering artichokes in the garden next door. I had never seen those huge thistle like flowers before.
After finishing our stroll around Pescadero, we made our way back to the car and the very pleasant drive home. The end of another perfect day.
November 19 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
Heading down the trail to Franklin Point. This photo looks back towards Highway 1.
After stopping for breakfast in Santa Cruz, we set off for our favorite spot on the coast – Franklin Point. When we left San Jose just before 7, the temperature was already 77 degrees and it looked like it was going to be another hot one. What we needed was to cool off at the coast. We were expecting it to be a little foggy and in fact there was a sign on Highway 17 which said to watch out for fog ahead but as we reached the crest of the Santa Cruz Mountains there was no fog and in fact there was still none in sight as we approached Santa Cruz. It was a different story though when we left Santa Cruz to headed up the coast. First of all it was just a little foggy but it cleared around Davenport, only to appear again as we approached Ano Nuevo. That’s the trouble with fog, you never know where it is going to be exactly.
Franklin Point was not too bad actually. As we got out of the car there was a stiff breeze so we donned our jackets. There were no other cars parked by the tree stump but ahead of us on the trail we could see another couple walking towards the beach. The trail is only half a mile long to the beach. I strode ahead so Tom could take his time to stop along the way and take photos.
It has been nearly a year since our last visit and I was looking forward to sitting on my favorite bench. The trail has been modified since then.
Click on this photo for a larger version and you'll be able to see our favorite bench at Franklin Point
The first modification was man made. About two thirds of the way along it used to get very wet and muddy in the winter and on occasions the trail has been impassable at this point. A few years ago small logs were put down over the worst section to form a pathway but over time they have either been burried of have disappeared. A raised boardwalk has now been constructed, which will make it possible to walk to the beach every day of the year. The second modification to the trail was natural. Due to shifting sand, the trail itself has been altered nearer the beach.
When I arrived at the beach, I took my time to absorb the scene, taking deep breaths to fill my lungs with the fresh air. The only people in sight were the couple who I had seen earlier and they were making a beeline for the bench, which was clearly visible half a mile away up on the point. But they only stopped a few seconds and did not even sit down before they turned away and carried on walking south. Such a pity. It might be blowing up there but five minutes rest on the bench would have set them up for the day.
I didn’t head for the bench straightaway but walked on past for about half a mile, just to see what I could see. I stopped to look down into a little cove and spotted a huge pink starfish clinging to a rock. The path at this point was perilously close to the edge of the cliff.
Turning back, I retraced my steps to the point where a boardwalk leads to the bench. Last time I remarked how the boardwalk itself was beginning to deteriorate. This time I noticed how some of the metal poles were very rusty and a few have corroded to the point where the metal is very flaky. I won’t be surprised if on my next visit some of them will have rusted through completely.
Looking out at Franklin Point from our favorite bench at our favorite place along the San Mateo Coast.
Eventually I arrived at my bench. OK, it was windy. As I wrote I had to hold down the pages of my journal with the other hand, but I’m not complaining. The sound of the waves coming in and going out and the surf breaking over the rocks was soothing. The smell of the ocean was invigorating – all those negative ions working their magic. On top of all that, I could taste the brine on my lips. The fog was thicker out to sea and I could not see Pigeon Point Lighthouse off to my right. I knew it was there but the light was not even visible.
Normally we see a lot of pelicans flying low around this point and Tom waits patiently for them to arrive. You have no warning at all that they are coming. Suddenly they appear, gliding in formation and skimming the waves. But today we were out of luck. We saw lots of gulls and cormorants sitting out on the rocks but not one pelican.
As we sat there, contemplating life and the future; glorying in the scenery and the cool breezes, the sun began to warm our backs. Ironically the fog seemed to be getting thicker off the coast. Eventually we both took a deep sigh, turned our backs on the ocean and headed back to the heat of the Santa Clara Valley.
August 02 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
It has been over a month since we have done any day trips, due to a nasty cold that Tom has been suffering from and
San Gregorio Valley
several very wet weekends. This weekend is not going to be any dryer but as only scattered showers are forecast today, we decided to at least go for a drive.
We set off just before 7am, heading towards the coast. On the peaks of the Santa Cruz mountains there was a dusting of snow. There was a beautiful but ominous cloud suspended above. That must be the next storm moving in. We desperately need the rain though. After two dry winters, we welcome the rain but it has been a long time coming this year. It probably will not be enough,though, to prevent water rationing this summer. When it rains here it hopefully falls as snow over the Sierras and when that snow melts in the spring, it fills our reservoirs.
The sun was shining but the temperature only registered at 43 degrees F down in the valley. It is the sun shining on the clouds which made them look so beautiful.
We took Highway 85 to 280 and headed north. Near the Alpine Road exit, we caught sight of a partial rainbow but it disappeared before our eyes. Above us a hawk hovered, the sun making it look almost white. Just before we reached the Woodside exit the rain started to fall but only lasted a short while.
We took the scenic route to Highway 92 by turning off 280 at the Edgewood Road exit and turned left. As we drove back under the freeway, the view in front of us was glorious. Ahead was a heavily wooded slope, c0vered in pine trees and with small patches of flog clinging to the trees and filling the small dips. At Canada Road we turned right and drove past Filoli House (open Tuesday – Sunday) and the Pulgas Water Temple (open week days only). Neither were open but one day we will visit both.
Tom wanted to stop and take some photos but there were “No Parking At Any Time’ notices posted at regular intervals plus a high wire fence made it impossible to take a decent shot. Further along we did find a place to park where there was no fence. From there Tom had a good view down to Crystal Springs Reservoir, which is the source of San Francisco’s drinking water.
This section of Canada Road is closed to cars every Sunday for cyclists to have the road to themselves (apart from the odd roller skater). We once brought our bikes to Bike Sunday. It was great and we must come again. We will be taking part in the Strawberry Fields Forever charity bike ride in May so we may well come here again on our path to getting back into condition.
We turned left onto Highway 92 on the final stretch into Half Moon Bay. First we crossed the reservoir and then started the climb over the Coastal Range. Crossing Skyline Blvd we caught our first glimpse of the ocean.
The downhill section of the road into Half Moon Bay is always fascinating. There are so many interesting businesses along the way – Christmas tree farms, pumpkin patches (though at this time of the year there are no pumpkins to be seen), equestrian centers, plant nurseries, huge metal sculptures of animals and further along a lot animals carved out of wood, a winery (it used to be called Obester Winery but the name has changed to Nebbia Winery) and Spanish Town with it’s seven shops selling a variety of crafts.
We drove through the historic main street of Half Moon Bay but didn’t stop. There was nothing open. We were thinking of stopping for breakfast here but the Main Street Grill was not open (and it was gone 8 am!). Pescadero will be our breakfast destination. At the end of the street we turned left onto Highway 1 and enjoyed a glorious ride. The sun was shining, even though there were still those threatening clouds around, and the ocean was very calm with not one white cap to be seen. Everything was wet and dripping and lots of surface water on the road.
Just before San Gregorio State Beach we turned left on La Honda Road towards San Gregorio. We are taking another scenic route, this time into Pescadero. On the way we pass a couple of small trees covered in pink blossom. In San Gregorio, which is just a couple of houses and a rather quaint little store, we took a left on Stagecoach Road. Tom wanted to take a photo of the valley.
Along Stage Road heading into Pescadero
We drove back to San Gregorio, crossed La Honda Road and carried on along Stagecoach Road, passing the old stage post on our right and further along, up on a small rise, the old school house on our left. The road starts to go uphill and there are many twists and turns. We think it is along here that our friend Tim had his encounter with the mountain lion (see the post on Point Reyes) so we had our eyes peeled but we were out of luck. The road continued to wind around giving us distant views of the ocean one minute a secluded valley the next. Approaching Pescadero we passed a farm on the right which had an enormous rusty metal skeleton “Terminator” sculpture holding a machine gun on the roadside. Passing the cemetery, we entered the main street of Pescadero.
We had breakfast at Duartes Tavern. This is one of our truly favorite places to eat at any time of the day (see the post on Duartes Tavern). Today was no exception. As it was Valentine’s Day, I expected it to be more crowded. I did hear though that they were fully booked later in the day. There was a fresh red rose on all the tables. Tom had an omelet and I had oatmeal with a side of wheat toast. With the oatmeal you get milk, brown sugar, raisins and pecans There were two sorts of home made scrummy jam served with the toast. While there, I bought one of their legendary ollallieberry pies to take home. A bit expensive at $23 but a splendid treat for a special occasion. I was presented with a single, white rose, when we left – as all women were. What a lovely gesture.
We left Pescadero by turning left onto Pescadero Creek Road. which is another scenic route. So far we
Misty fog threading through the trees
have not had any more showers but when we drove through the redwoods big drops of water fell from the branches. Before we reached La Honda, we turned right on Alpine Road. Tom and I have never been on this stretch of road before and it was spectacular. Very narrow with just room for one car in parts and with lots of hair pin bends along the way. At one point, we passed a couple of parked cars on a small lay by and I noticed a trail leading to a little wooden bridge over the creek. I looked on the map and saw that it was the Towne Fire trail which heads back towards Pescadero Creek Road. We’ll have to walk it one day. There were a few residences we passed but we couldn’t see them. The only indication were mail boxes and huge imposing gates.
We stopped to take some photos where the woods ended and the open spaces began. On our left was the Russian Ridge Open Space and on our right the Skyline Ridge Open Space. The views were amazing and the rising fog looked like smoke.
Approaching Skyline Blvd, we drove though several patches of fog and encountered four cyclists freewheeling down an incline before they hit the next rise to Skyline. Fortunately they turned left and we crossed Skyline and descended Page Mill Road to 280. In several spots we had good views down to Palo Alto, the Dumbarton Bridge and the whole South Bay. Halfway down we saw a flare in the road. Rounding the corner we had to stop because a Land Rover had gone into a tree. Fortunately the driver was not hurt as we saw him sitting at the side of the road looking rather dejected and embarrassed. Soon we hit 280 and were soon home.
We had a very enjoyable day, saw some wonderful sights, had a great breakfast plus we avoided the rain. What more could anybody ask for?
February 14 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
We are off to our favorite place on the San Mateo Coast – Franklin Point. Let’s hope it is not fog bound this time. According to the weather forecast, it looks as though Santa Cruz will be clear and bright but there is fog at Half Moon Bay. Franklin Point is between the two, so we will just have to take a chance.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The journey to Santa Cruz was more or less mundane until we were headed down the mountain on the other side of Scotts Valley on Highway 17. Suddenly I saw a car on the other side of the road fly into the air and crash into the trees at the side of the road. Tom saw the dust but not the car. I was really shaken up but there was nothing we could do as there was a concrete barrier down the middle of the road. I looked behind and there were cars stopping so knew someone would be calling 911. I just couldn’t get the image out of my mind and was really concerned about the driver and any passengers there may have been in the car. I knew I would be worrying all day.
We drove into Santa Cruz for breakfast – see previous entry – and were back on the road again by 7.40. Our route took us back to Highway 1 where we turned north.
Just outside Santa Cruz we saw signs up warning of a bike race and soon we saw the cyclists. We passed a lot of them between Santa Cruz and Davenport. Most of them were serious competitors with their super bikes, Lycra gear, cool shades and space age helmets. Some were making light work of the hills and some seemed to be struggling. At the front of the cyclists were three motor cycle cops. I wonder how far they are going.
It must be getting close to October and the pumpkin season. We passed several pumpkin patches being made ready. In one there was already a huge display of pumpkins all waiting to be picked out by excited children, although, of course, it was not open at 8 a.m.
Oh no! We can see fog ahead. This looks like a repeat of our aborted visit last month when the weather was too bad to even walk to the beach. Maybe it will clear – always the optimist.
We stop at Big Basin Redwoods State Park where the redwoods come all the way down to the coast. Tom wanted to take photos of the fog over the creek and maybe the brown pelicans taking a rest in the lagoon on the beach. I stay in the car and write.
Here the sun is shining which is really weird as we are surrounded by fog. Out on the ocean I can vaguely see the die hard surfers waiting patiently to catch a wave. The sea doesn’t look high today so maybe they are just beginners.
Tom has now left the creek and has made his way across Highway 1 to the lagoon. There are several pelicans on the water but now dozens are on the sand and more fly in to join them. I guess this must be their meeting place every morning where they catch up with all the gossip.
I’ve been siting here 15 minutes and here come the three motor cycle cops and not far behind the first two cyclists appear. I guess we are going to have a bit of trouble getting away from here. Tom is making his way back to the car. Maybe we can get away before the bulk of them arrive. I can’t see any more coming at the moment. We were able to make our escape. As we turned back onto the road I could see a few cyclists coming down the hill behind us.
We pass Costanoa and pull into the parking strip near the tree stump., There is one van already there and three surfers are getting ready to walk to the beach. As I get out of the car I can smell the sea. Mmmm.
I set off first. Yes it is foggy but it is not as bad or as cold as the last time so we decided to go for it. At the top first rise I paused as I could see on the path ahead a mother deer and her young fawn. Both lifted their heads and looked at me. I would have waited until they decided to move away but at that moment two of the surfers come by. The two deer trotted off down the path and I never saw them again.
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September 12 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
Once again we get an early start. Our route is over the Santa Cruz mountains on Highway 17.
Today it is overcast but as we climb it looks clearer ahead. Maybe there will be no fog on the coast.
We are trying out a new cycle path. When we participated in the Strawberry Fields Forever event a few weeks ago, one of the unicyclists recommended the path from Santa Cruz to the Wilder Ranch. Yesterday I went online to look for information but it took me quite a while to find out exactly where the route started in Santa Cruz.
On 17, as we crested the summit, the sun was out but we could see a lot of low fog down in the valley. It looked as though we were looking down on an immense lake with woody islands dotted around. The fog became thicker as we went downhill towards Scotts Valley.
After stopping for breakfast in Santa Cruz, we set out to find Chestnut Street. We found it before too long. Now we have to find Mission Street. It’s here we became confused. According to the map I printed yesterday, Mission Street runs parallel to Highway 1 but Highway 1 is Mission Street! We took a left turn and saw signs pointing to a bike path. Ah, that looks promising. Then we came to a cross street which said Mission Street. Maybe somewhere along the way Highway 1 veers away from Mission Street. Who cares, at least we are back on track. We drive to the end of Mission Street to where the bike path begins.
It is cold and foggy and the seats on our bikes are damp. Tom wanted to borrow my leggings. Fat chance of that!
The bike path runs by the side of Highway 1. How many times have we driven along this stretch of road and we never knew there was a bike path there.
From here we cannot see the ocean. To the left are cultivated fields but we know they run down to the ocean. The path is reasonable. Along the way we see are clumps of California Poppies, refusing to open just yet as the day is not warm enough.
Before long we reach Wilder Ranch. It opens at 8 and the time is now 7.55 but we are able to ride round the gate.
The history of the ranch is fascinating. Roundabout 1841 the original adobe house was built by Don Jose Antonio Bolcoff and it was named the Rancho Rufugio. Balcoff was also responsible for starting the dairy. In 1854 Moses A Melder foreclosed on loans and acquired the property. He built a house, now called Meder House, and several barns. In 1871 Delos D Wilder and L K Baldwin formed a partnership and acquired the land. They had the reputation of ‘making the finest butter’. The partnership was dissolved in 1185 and D.D Wilder secured the lower half of the land of roughly 2,330 acres which became the Wilder Ranch. He built a large addition to the ranch house in 1990. Five generations of the Wilder family lived and worked the ranch and in December 1975 the property became a State Park.
Tom stops to take photos of some of the buildings and four horses in a field. All is quiet except for bursts of bird song. Thre is nobody else around. A ranger turns up in a truck and starts checking and opening buildings and we spot two other visitors. This is a haven for mountain bikers because of the bike paths radiating from Wilder Ranch. To the ocean side there are the easy ones on the buff top but there is a tunnel under Highway 1 which leads to a multitude of trails up to the mountains. All bikers have to dismount and walk through the ranch.
I stand and watch the chickens who are safely caged up. Maybe later in the day they will be allowed to wander free. The ranger parks nerarby and I ask her about the different bike trails. She very kindly gave me a map. We chat for a bit and she recounted a story about the chickens. Early one morning she was nearby when she heard the chickens get excited. She assumed it was because they saw her and thought they were going to be fed, so she ignored them. Later she was devastated to find out that a bobcat had got into the hen house and outside run and had killed all the chickens bar one rooster. The bobcat came back the next night and killed him too.
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June 20 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
After our rather disappointing breakfast at Ketch Joanne, we took a walk along the pier. It is always interesting to look at the fishing boats.
The first thing we noticed as we reached the pier were small, dead fish floating on the surface. At first we assumed somebody had lost all their fishing bait but then we noticed more and more.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
It is a working pier with lots of small fishing boats moored. It is possible to buy fresh fish straight from some of the boats. To us, there is nothing more tasty than fresh fish so we checked to see what was available today – Dungeness Crab, Ling Cod, Rockfish and Halibut. We sauntered down the gangplank and started to walk between the boats. We came to the Alan, selling live crabs. The fisherman was more than willing to chat, so we asked him about the dead fish and he happily explained what happened.
On Tuesday a shoal of anchovies entered the harbor but a lot of them were unable to get out when the tide changed. They were trapped until the tide changed again. But it was a minus low tide and there was not enough oxygen in the water so many of them died. When they expired they dropped to the bottom but then after a few days they rise to float on the surface. He went on to say that the birds had a field day on Tuesday and were gorging themselves so much on the struggling fish that most of them weren’t able to fly for a while.
We were tempted to buy one of his crabs but I honestly didn’t want to share the car with a live crab. After all, I might become attached to it and then how could I plunge it into a pan of boiling water?
Our walk and visit to the pier was a short expedition. The wind was cold and the thought of a warm car was really inviting. So we retraced our steps and headed for home.
June 15 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
I read a very interesting item from The Associated Press on Yahoo News Thursday about a
missing Cape Cod lighthouse being found in California. Apparently the Montara Lighthouse originally operated at Mayo Beach in Massachusetts. Local historians there thought the lighthouse had been demolished in 1925. Recent research though shows that it was taken down, probably bolt by bolt, and then transported overland to Yerba Buena ( I guess the island in San Francisco Bay) where it was reconstructed and then moved to Montara. For more information visit LighthouseFriends.com.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
As we were just one mile away at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, I wanted to go and have a look at this lighthouse. It was very hard to find though. Everybody expects lighthouses to be tall and easy to spot many miles away but that is not the case here. I knew roughly where it was because I checked on the map but it was nowhere to be seen. We drove through Montara and then turned around and drove back again. I knew it was just south of 14th street so we retraced to route until we found 14th Street and then kept our eyes peeled.
The only clue to its whereabouts is a picture advertising a hostel so we turned into the entrance. There was a sign inside advising us that there was no parking but we found somewhere to park and made our way to the office to make inquiries. On the way we saw the lighthouse. No wonder it was hard to see from the road as it is only 30′ tall and it is just the light on the top which gives any clue as to what it is.
It is still used as a navigational aid to ships but the light is automated. Because of its height, the light can be see below the fog. The fog signal, which used to be housed next to the lighthouse, has been moved offshore. Now the old lighthouse keepers house and surrounding buildings are used as a hostel and the location is perfect – unless of course it is blanketed by thick fog!
June 10 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
This is the day we have been waiting for – a minus low tide at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, or to be correct James V
Fitzgerald Marine Reserve. Of course, there are low tides twice a day but minus low tides are more infrequent. Because Tom and I work and we take photos in the early morning, we have to wait until a minus low tide occurs around sunrise on a Saturday or Sunday. To check tides visit here.
The weather forecaster on the radio said today was going to be ’simply beautiful’ -though what it is like on the coast we shall soon find out. Driving along Interstate 280 at 6.30 it certainly looks promising. Last week you may remember I wrote my thoughts on 101 so let me tell you now about 280. There are as different as chalk and cheese. Today we have wonderful scenery – rolling golden hills, the coastal mountains covered with trees off to our left, glimpses of the bay to our right and Crystal Springs Reservoir sparkling down below. Give me this route any day.
(Click on the images for larger versions)
We turn onto Highway 92, which will take us to the coast. The road dips down to cross the reservoir. Wisps of fog rise from the surface and disappear. The level of the water is disturbingly low. I understand that Governor Schwarzengger has officially declared a drought and we may even have water rationing.
Just before we hit the outskirts of Half Moon Bay we see flares on the road. This is the two lane section so no chance of passing. We round the bend and in front is a que of cars. Up to this point we have had the road more or less to ourselves so we are not used to a traffic jam. Later on today it will be bumper to bumper as folks head over to the coast but usually at this time the road is clear. A long way in front of us we see flashing lights but thank goodness it is only a fleet of slow moving construction trucks. They move over and let us all pass and we are on our way again.
At 6.25 we turn right onto Highway 1. The sun is up, although the temperature is only 45 degrees, but there is no fog. Yipee! Fitzgerald Marine is not easy to find. From Half Moon Bay drive north for 6 miles, past Pillar Point Harbor and the airport until you reach Half Moon Bay. There is a small sign which says Marine Refuge but it is hard to spot. Turn left on California Avenue and follow it to the end. Turn right on North Lake Street and the car park for the reserve is there on your right. It is not very big so you have to get there early. When we arrive though, there was only one other car there.
Low tide today will be at 8.17 so we have a little bit of time beforehand. Tom wanted to head to the bluff above the beach first of all, so we turn left out of the car park and walk back along North Lake Street until we reach a footpath leading to a small, metal bridge. On the other side of the bridge, the trail branches off in several direction and we headed uphill. The climb is worth the view at the top as we are surrounded by cypress trees. This is the photo opportunity Tom was looking for as the sun is at the perfect height. I wander off and leave him happily clicking away.
Walking through the glade of trees is awesome. Some have fallen down but still manage to look majestic. I climb higher to another trail along the top of the bluff and look down on the beach. The tide is retreating and the tide pools are being uncovered and that is the main reason for today’s visit. A lot of people make there way here to explore the tide pools and the lower the tide the more tide pools are uncovered. There are already a couple of people down on the beach and soon we will be joining them.
I gaze to the north and spot what looks like a monument out in the low water. It intrigues me and I have to find out what it is. Of course I wasn’t able to do that until I arrived home and had access to the internet but I can tell you that it is a relic from World War II. It was built as a marker to boats and aircraft and, when gunnery practice was taking place, a red flag was hoisted on the pillar.
After taking several pictures myself, I walk back to meet up with Tom again and snap a few photos of him as well. We then walk back up to the bluff and Tom spotted a coyote or fox up on the bluff, who stopped and gazed at him, but he had disappeared by the time Tom had got the message to me. We walk along the top until we find a flight of rather treacherous steps leading down to the sandy beach. Once out of the sun, the cold hits us but it is bearable.
Where the sand ends the tide pools begin. Now there are a few more people around but not
the number I was expecting. They appeared to be close by by clambering around the tide pools takes a long time. Even the pools uncovered first are full of interest although at first glance they may appear empty. The art of exploring tide pools is to stop, stand very still and wait a couple of movements. Then you will see something move. Bend down slowly and keep looking and eventually you will be surprised at what you will discover. There is a little crab, moving very slowly and there a tiny fish darting between one clump of seaweed and another. I saw something move and kept my eye riveted to the spot until I saw movement again. It was a small fish but it was almost impossible to see when it was stationary as it was mottled and looked the exact color of the rocks and sand it was next to.
Walking over the rocks can be extremely hazardous to all concerned. Rocks are the home of many types of marine life, from the seaweed covering them to the sea anemones attached to them and treading on them is life threatening. They are also dangerous to humans as the seaweed can be very slippery. One false move and you could find yourself crashing onto the rocks or landing in the water. So it is important to be cautious and to watch every step you take. Children especially need to be supervised carefully. Another word of warning, do not remove anything from the beach at all. No shells, or stones, not even a feather. There are rangers walking around and they will stop and chastise you if they spot you carrying anything away.
After spending a couple of happy and absorbing hours on the beach, it is time to go and find some breakfast. We need something hot to warm us up. My hands were shaking with cold.
June 07 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
