Oops, pardon me! Must have been that squid I had last night.
Continuing on our visit to Ano Nuevo we’re heading down the trail towards the point and the elephant seals.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
To the right of the path was a small pond. Further on there is a wooden viewing platform with information boards about the birds which frequent the pond and a couple of rare visitors which have been spotted there. Garter Snakes and the endangered the California Red-legged Frog have made their homes here.
A trail to Cove Beach is off to the left. Down below I could see the beach and I ventured a short way down but didn’t go all the way as we were anxious to see the elephant seals. A nearby sign warns you not to get too close to the cliff edge and a big information board explained about the crumbling cliffs. Another sign warned of poison oak.
About half way down the Ano Nuevo Trail is the boundary of the Wildlife Protection Area. Here is the staging area where the docent led tours commence during the December to March period. There are information boards, a bench and a restroom nearby. At this time of the year there are no restrictions, so we carried on.
The path became muddy and there were some huge puddles which we had to negotiate. The water in some of them looked oily and I wandered what caused it. Tom was worried that it was run-off from farmland further inland. At one point, a plank had been placed over one of the puddles. Then the path became sandy and soon we were climbing our first sand dune.
The first major spot to get up close to the elephant seals is at South Point. Here there was a roped off area and just beyond that lots of seals laying
Well hello there. Elephant seal pup at Ano Nuevo
about on the sand. Most of them were the pups born earlier this year. Their mums feed them for about a month and then left them to fend for themselves and they never return to them. The pups live off their fat for a couple of months. During that time they go through their first molt and then they head for the ocean. At this time, they are very vulnerable. Lurking offshore are sharks and killer whales. There were also a number of female seals on the beach. They had hauled ashore for their annual molt.
I must admit the seals have a certain smell about them. It is not particularly offensive but, on the other hand, it is not the most attractive aroma around. They are a bit noisy as well. Think of a burp and then magnify it five times. The males are very noisy and can really bellow.
We left the South Point viewing area and returned to the trail. The path became extremely muddy. When I was last here several years ago we walked all the way to North Point but that trail was closed. Today the trail ends at Bright Beach where there are two spots to view the seals. We picked the one on the right and the only other person there was a docent. Here there were a lot more seals than at South Point.
The docent, Randy Baum, spent a long time to talking to us and gave us lots of fascinating information about the seals. He explained that the seals spend most of their lives at sea. On land they look ungainly, though it is surprising how quickly they can move at times, but in the ocean they are in their element. They dive to about 2,000 feet but the record dive has been recorded at over 5,000 feet. One of the reasons they can dive so deep is because all the oxygen they need is in their blood and their body fat is compressed, allowing them to sink further. Tom noticed that one of the seals had something on its head. He thought it was a growth of some sort but Randy explained that this was an electronic device which is attached to the head to record the depth and duration of dives. When the seal molts, the device falls off and it can be recovered from the beach.
Last look at Ano Nuevo Island as we head back
As we chatted, I noticed several of the larger seals, probably four year old males, started moving towards the water. They sure can move fast for about 20 yards. Suddenly there were about six of them, all heading down the beach. Even Randy did not now why they were all on the move at the same time. Tom surmised it was because the weather had warmed up and they wanted to cool off. I reckoned they had taken bets as to who would reach the water first. I’ve seen a few seals haul themselves out of the ocean and up the beach but this is the first time I’ve seen any making their way into the water.
On the walk back to the parking lot we bypassed the route to South Beach. We walked up a dune and were confronted by a wondrous view all around. The sun had now appeared and the ocean was sparkling. The views in one direction were to the north, out to the west was Ano Nuevo Island and ahead there were views down the coast towards Monterey. We stopped at a convenient bench to admire the view for a few minutes and to bask in the sunshine.
At the end, I took a detour to go to look at what I thought was the Visitor Center but a big sign indicated it was the Marine Education Center and it was closed. I walked behind it to find another couple of buildings. One was the Old Creamery – it also had a sign announcing it was the Ranger Station – and the other was the old horse barn. An information board told me that the Marine Education Center is also the Visitor Center and that originally is was the cow barn when this was a thriving dairy farm called the Steele Ranch.
We made our way back to the car park and to headed to Pescadero for lunch. In Duarte’s we sat at the bar and consumed a marvelous crab sandwich while chatting to our neighbor. It was the end of a perfect day.
June 16 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Young Elephant Seal. I think it's a male. Is he smiling at us?
It was a Friday. Neither Tom or I were working that day so decided to go and see the elephant seals at Ano Nuevo – on the San Mateo coast.
Ano Nuevo is a State Park and the best place to see these unusual seals. They are called elephant seals because the males have long noses which resemble the trunk of an elephant. The males can grow to sixteen feet and weigh two and a half tons – about the size of a Volkswagen Bug. Elephant seals spend most of their lives in the ocean and only come ashore to breed, give birth and molt. Up to the first half of the 19th century, their numbers were prolific but from 1850 onwards they were slaughtered for their blubber. They are absolutely fearless and did not escape to the water when they were being hunted so they were easy prey. Towards the end of the 19th century it was estimated they were only 100 elephant seals left off the coast at Baja, California. In 1922 they became a protected species. Gradually their numbers have increased and the first elephant seal was spotted on Ano Nuevo Island in 1955.
The best time of the year to see the seals is between December and March when the females haul themselves ashore to give birth and the males arrive for the breeding season. During that period, visitors are restricted and reservations have to be made for access to the viewing sites which are led by docents. I have never visited Ano Nuevo at that time and it is on my wish list. The trouble is that the weekends get very booked up and as the weather is unpredictable it is always a gamble to book ahead. Tom has been during the winter and he said the sight of males fighting to protect their harem was amazing.
Back to this visit. The sun was shining and it promised to be a lovely day. We set off at 7 am and headed for the Santa Cruz mountains. As we got close to the summit, what did we see in front of us? Fog! The Santa Clara valley was bathed in sunshine behind us but as we descended towards Santa Cruz the temperature and visibility plunged.
Tom had scoped out a couple of possible destinations for breakfast but as neither opened until 8 am we had twenty minutes to kill. We drove along West Cliff Drive and found a parking spot overlooking the beach, wharf and boardwalk. Outside the car it was chilly but Tom went for a stroll.
Path out to Ano Nuevo. Looking back towards the visitors center. We're about half way there.
After a wonderful breakfast at The Samba Rock Acai Cafe in Santa Cruz we found our way to Highway 1 North and headed out of town. As it was a working day and just before 9 am, the traffic was heavy in town but once we were past the outskirts, with the ocean off to our left, there were less cars about. The sun was still not visible but we had high hopes that it would appear and burn off the fog or maybe the sky will be clearer further north.
The hills were still very green. Normally at this time of the year they would be starting to turn yellow before donning their summer hue of brown – sorry – gold. We have the recent rains to thank for that. We noticed how much more water there was in the Lexington Reservoir in Los Gatos on our journey through the mountains this morning.
North of Davenport patches of blue skies were spotted and occasionally the sun shone through. By the time we turned in the Ano Nuevo State Park the sun had disappeared again.
The park opens at 8 am and there is a $10 entrance fee. We were handed a map and drove on to the car park. Here there are picnic tables and restrooms. When we got out of the car it was chilly and I was glad I’d brought my sweatshirt.
The trail is called the Ano Nuevo Point Trail and it is easy to find. We set off down a gravel path and soon came to a fork. Off to the right is the Cove Beach via Pond Loop trail but it is closed at the moment. A sign across the path states that it is closed to protect natural resources and for the safety of the public.
Right on the fork is displayed part of an old wooden steam sailing schooner called Point Arena which sunk while unloading tanbark at Pigeon Point Light House in 1913. A five ton section of the ship washed ashore at Ano Nuevo and was uncovered by a storm in 1983. An information board nearby listed 19 shipwrecks that had occurred between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo from 1853-1953.
As we continued on down the trail, we could see Ano Nuevo Island offshore. 200 years ago it was attached to the mainland. In 1872 a light house was built on the island because of the number of shipwrecks. Maintaining the light house and the houses built to accommodate the light house keeper and his assistant was difficult, due to the constant onslaught by weather and the invasion of seals, sea lions and birds. In 1948 a marker buoy with an automatic light, sound and radar reflector was installed just offshore from the island. The light house is now closed to the public and the birds and sea mammals have completely overrun the buildings and they are rapidly deteriorating.
To be continued
June 10 2010 | Special Places | No Comments »
One of the fishing boats at Pillar Point Harbor
Another beautiful spring day in sunny California. Our main destination today is Franklin Point on the San Mateo Coast. As we drove towards the coast on Highway 92, the sun was rising. The slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains were bathed in a reddish tint and everything looked glorious.
(Click the photos for larger versions)
After breakfast at the 3-Zero Cafe next to Half Moon Bay Airport, we stopped off at Pillar Point Harbor. We were looking to buy some fresh fish straight from the boats. At first I was surprised at the number of people around but then realized it was a group gathering for a whale watching boat trip. Now is a great time of the year for such a trip as the female gray whales are close to shore escorting their young calves north.
We wandered down the wharf looking to see if any boats were selling fresh fish. There was only one boat open for business but they only had Dungeness Crabs on offer.
It was very pleasant walking down the ramps and floating wharves, strolling around looking at all the fishing boats. These are definitely working boats with their decks littered with ropes, pontoons, crab cages and rusty equipment. Boats gently nudged the edge of the wharves as they rose and fell with the swell and we swayed slightly with the motion.
These fishermen have been experiencing hard times recently with the closure of the salmon fishing season for the last two years. There will be limited commercial fishing this year (just eight days in May) so soon they will be able to catch at least a little of the local king salmon, which is the best salmon ever.
Pigeon Point Light House
Onto our main destination today – Franklin Point. I know it is only a few weeks since our last visit but we were anxious to see whether the path to the beach had been restored. I want to sit on our favorite seat and gaze out across the ocean. With any luck we should spot a few whales today. Passing Pescadero State Beach we noticed, a group of people standing on the bluffs. Whale watching maybe? Then we noticed a tour bus in the parking lot. There is going to be a lot of people around today.
We did consider stopping at Pigeon Point Lighthouse but the parking lot is not very large and it was packed, plus cars were parked along the side of the road. We did stop a few hundred yards south of the lighthouse so Tom could take a picture of the lighthouse with the wild flowers in the foreground. I stayed near the car and kept my eyes peeled for water spouts. There were several boats some way offshore. They could have been fishing boats or whale watching tours. It was a beautiful spot. The view was spectacular and the sound of birds singing was background music.
Pigeon Point Light House from a different angle
Between the lighthouse and Ano Nuevo is the parking place for Franklin Point. There were no other cars there. I set off down the path, watching a hawk hunting to my right. On the path I spotted a fat orange and black furry caterpillar. Since our last visit there must have been some rain because the path was quite muddy in places.
Over the last dune and where the path abruptly ended on our last visit in February, there is now limited access to the beach. It is a steep slide down. I was grateful to arrive in one piece but how was I going to get back?
It was good to be there on the beach with the seat within walking distance. The tide was high and it didn’t look possible to get to the point along the beach where there is a path to the seat. When I reached the rocks at the end of the beach there was no way over the rocks so I went back up the beach looking for a way round. There was a tent pitched just above the high tide mark and by the amount of personal possessions scattered around it almost looks like somebody has taken up residence rather than an overnight stay.
Once on top of the bluff, I followed a beaten path. Several times I had to turn back and look for an easier path but eventually I made it. At last I was on the final boardwalk to our favorite seat. Glancing back towards the entrance to the beach, I saw Tom and we waved to each other. I settled down on the bench for a serious whale watching session. This is the perfect time and the weather is just right as well.
I didn’t have to wait long. Soon I was spotting small spouts and the occasional bigger spout. You can
Franklin Point poppies
guess how thrilled I was. Every so often I would say ‘yes’ out loud or even ‘wow’. A couple of times I saw a tail rise out of the water. I imagined there was a pod of killer whales out there hunting for the vulnerable calves. The water spouts could not be seen with the naked eye from where I sat but the binoculars brought everything into view. Pigeon Point lighthouse is further out, that may be the perfect spot for whale watching.
Tom joined me and for the next hour we stayed there – Tom taking photos, just relaxing and occasionally using the binoculars. Me – I was whale watching, writing and relaxing. It was the best of times.
Eventually we stirred ourselves and made our way back to the car. Tom had found an easier route to the seat so we followed that. There were quite a few people on the main path leading back to the highway, some people were sitting on the bluffs and looking out to sea. Everybody was enjoying this wonderful location.
On the way back to Highway 92, we stopped in Half Moon Bay to buy some fresh salmon. It was from Alaska so not quite as fresh as it would have been if we had been able to buy straight from the fishermen but until the real stuff arrives it will have to do. Along with some asparagus we bought from the shop next door, we have all the ingredients for a great BBQ.
April 27 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Today the weather forecast said it was going to be a nice day so we set off for the coast. Tom had rented an expensive Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8
Waddell Beach and lots of birds
Zoom Lens for three days and after spending time yesterday getting used to it in the backyard, he was itching to get out and use it.
We were disappointed to see fog as we backed out of the garage but by the time we joined Highway 17 and headed towards the Santa Cruz mountains, it miraculously cleared and with the sun beginning to rise, it looked like it is going to more than a nice day.
Along Highway 17, evidence of spring could be seen with lots of yellow and white blossoms brightening the roadside. After the recent rains we have had, it was nice to see the Lexington Reservoir with more water in it than we have seen for some time. The water had been so low recently that a bridge, along with a few house foundations from the towns of Lexington and Alma which were submerged when the reservoir was created, had been exposed. Let’s hope we will have lots of water for this summer.
We had planned to stop for breakfast at the Summit Roadhouse on Highway 17. When I checked online the opening time was supposed to be 6 am but when we pulled up outside at gone 7, the big ‘Closed’ sign was in the window. Thwarted again. As Tom was keen to start shooting, he didn’t want to travel around Santa Cruz looking for a breakfast place which was open, so we stopped at Peet’s in Scots Valley for coffee, hot chocolate and a muffin.
Soon we were back on the road again and heading north on Highway 1. Fog could be seen just offshore and we continually ran in and out of it.
Pelican riding the wind just over the wave tops
We pulled into the small car park at Waddell Creek and Tom was off. Although the sun was shining where we were, the visibility was not great and the temperature was 45 degrees. I decided to sit in the car and write. The tide was in and the surf high but there were no surfers around. From my viewpoint onto Waddell Beach I could see lots of gulls and when they suddenly all took flight they momentarily blocked out the sun. Looking back towards the redwoods marching to the sea in Big Basin State Park, the fog hid the tops of the trees but rays of the sun were shining through. It was a beautiful sight.
When Tom got back in the car, the first words he spoke were ‘ beautiful lens’. He then went on to talk about a conversation he had with a guy who was parked next to us. This man had been to Mavericks the day before – the 2010 Mavericks Surf Contest was being held – and he commented that the waves out at the competition site did not look as high as the waves that broke onto the beach. Tom and I had considered going along to watch the competition but several things made us decide otherwise – there were bound to be thousands of people there and viewing spots are very limited plus Tom wanted to play with the lens. Just as well really because some of those waves which broke onto the beach were really big and submerged a lot of people. Nobody was killed fortunately but there were some injuries and lots of people soaking wet and very frightened.
Next stop Franklin Point. Once again, bright sun but visibility limited. The trail, which is just sand, was damp and the tips of the marsh grass which hung over the trail were wet and soaked my pants. Catkins and buds were beginning to burst on the small trees along the way.
Along the way I met a man with his small daughter. They were staying at nearby Costanoa. He said there was not much beach to see but he and
Just some reeds along the path to Franklin Point
his daughter had bushwhacked their way along the top of the dunes and spotted a lone elephant seal in a small inlet a little way to the north.
Every time we visit Franklin Point there are small differences but today those differences were huge. As we crested the dunes at the edge of the beach, the sandy trail, which normally leads us straight onto the beach, abruptly ended. The high tides had wiped the path out. The waves were big and when they broke they lapped at the edge of the path 20 feet below us. No access to the beach today.
We avoided going too close to the edge. Sand is very volatile and can easily fall away under your feet. We didn’t fancy landing up in the water. We could see our favorite seat out on the point. To get to it we normally walk across the beach and climb up to it. Instead we decided to head north to see if we could spot the elephant seal but there was no proper trail. A beaten path of sorts could be followed for a short way but it was extremely difficult and highly dangerous.For Tom it was impossible. Not only was he carrying his tripod but the extra lens on his camera was very heavy. When I saw the footsteps in the sand right on the edge, discretion overcame valor and we gave up. Besides all this tramping off the trail is not good for the fragile environment.
We made our way back to the car. On the way Tom spotted a hawk perched on a tree stump some way away. With my binocular I could see it easily but could not identify it. It looked the same as the one we saw at Sacramento NWR just before Christmas.
On to Pigeon Point lighthouse a few miles down the road. The small car park was full so we parked on the road. Walking towards the lighthouse, I heard some people talking about Mavericks. They were staying at the hostel next to the lighthouse and had been on the beach yesterday. One man described the waves that hit the beach as a tsunami.
One last pelican off Pigeon Point Lighthouse
On the deck at the back of the lighthouse, the waves were up close and personal. Just offshore, huge waves were breaking over the rocks and the spray was spectacular. In fact, I could feel the spray and could taste salt when I licked my lips.
Tom was having fun with the rented lens. He’s so enamored of it, I’m worried he will want to buy one and I know it costs a few thousand dollars.
In between bouts of writing, I admired the view. Tom was still out on the lower deck and chatting away to the other visitors. One couple had a tripod and an odd looking camera, which they had trained on the lighthouse. When Tom returned to change his lens, I asked about the camera and he said it was a very old pinhole camera which is used to take long exposures.
For over an hour I sat on that bench, mostly watching over our equipment but it was a contented time; the crashing waves, enormous swells, fountains of spray, the frothing, seething, churning waters and the thundering surf kept me spellbound and the sun shone down. Hey ho, time to head home.
March 14 2010 | Special Places | 1 Comment »
Mail Boxes heading towards San Gregorio
Back in November last year we set out to investigate the beaches and coastal access points on the San Mateo Coast. We didn’t have time to check out Pescadero State Beach so today that is our mission.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
At 7.30 we set off from home, driving first along Interstate 280 and Highway 84 to Alice’s Restaurant on Skyline Blvd (see previous post). The weather forecast said it was going to be a nice day but we were driving through low fog up to 280. As we joined the freeway, the fog was gone. Ahead the Santa Cruz Mountains were clear, bright and bathed in early morning sunshine.
After breakfast we continued on 84 towards San Gregorio. I don’t think we have ever driven to the coast this way before. We either drive to Santa Cruz and turn north on Highway 1 or we take 280 to Highway 92 towards Half Moon Bay and then drive south on Highway 1. It is amazing how different everything looks driving the other way. It is a glorious day so that makes things look new and exciting. At San Gregorio we turned right on Stage Coach Road. We stopped so Tom could take some photos. The view looking east, with rolling green hills, grazing cattle and distant hills was magnificent.
When we hit Highway 1 we turned south, driving past San Gregorio Beach and headed to Pescadero. The ocean looked stunning. At this time of
San Gregorio valley
the year the whales are heading south on their yearly migration and although they are long way out, I kept my eyes skimmed for the odd water spout on the far horizon.
There are three car parks for Pescadero State Beach and we stopped at the first one. From here, by crossing the road, there is a nice little trail round the lagoon and up the hill. Today though we started by checking out the beach. Ours was the only car in the car park. Before we set off for the beach we filled out the self registration form and paid our $7 fee. Normal price is $8 but we both can take advantage of the seniors rate.
As we walked towards the beach the sound of the surf was music to our ears. Tom told me that there is a high surf warning at the moment and he advised me not to turn my back to the ocean if I was near the water. A young girl was swept out to sea on the Sonoma coast recently. Fortunately her parents saved her but it must have been a frightening experience for the family.
The beach is sandy and would be perfect for young children. One word of advice though, the nearest place to buy refreshments is two miles away in Pescadero so take everything you need with you. We had the place to ourselves. Tom was busy taking photos and I wandered around. There was a tiny lagoon and just one structure made from driftwood. I found a handy log to sit on and sat in the sun enjoying the view. The only thing disturbing the peace and quiet was its proximity to Highway 1 and the sound of passing cars.
We started walking south down the beach and rounded a small headland to a long stretch of sandy beach. Still nobody else around, not even a dog with its owner. There were lots of footsteps in the sand above the high watermark so there must have been plenty of visitors over the last couple of days. As we walked we smelt something rather unpleasant. Tom thought we might have walked through something a dog had left behind but the source soon revealed itself. It was a dead seal. It had been there some time and the only way we could tell it was a seal was by its flipper and the shape of the head.
There were a few more driftwood structures here. One was not very high but it covered a largish area and was open. Logs had been placed round in a sort of circle facing a bower like structure so obviously had been some sort of meeting place. It is so beautiful here. I can sit or stand, gazing out to sea for hours and hours watching the surf breaking just offshore and rolling in, with the sun catching and highlighting lots of different colors and shades in the water and watching the pelicans skimming the surface of the ocean. There are no surfers here today but I’ sure this would be a great place to come. Maybe they are all a bit further north at Half Moon Bay taking on the Mavericks. It is usually at this time of the year the famous Mavericks meet takes pace.
I noticed there were a few other people around. A group had arrived at the north end of the beach and to the south I could see a couple standing on the headland looking out to sea.
Further down the sand was strewn with driftwood. What an adventure playground this would be for children. They could spend hours building to their hearts content. I’ve always wandered where the logs come from. Some pieces are huge. Are they carried in by the tide or are they washed downhill from the mountains by the streams and creeks which flow into the ocean?
I thought we could walk all the way to the most southerly car park but it wasn’t possible. The Butano Creek empties into the ocean and it is too wide to wade through. At this point, Highway 1 is a bridge across the creek. It is possible to climb up to the highway but from where I stood it looks a bit dangerous to cross the bridge safely by foot. What we did discover in the rocks of the headland was a small archway and we watched in fascination as the surf crashed and surged through it.
End of Part 1
January 29 2010 | Special Places | 3 Comments »
After our stop at Pomponio State Beach, it was time for breakfast and we headed for the only place between here and Santa Cruz – Gazos Grill -
Gazos Grill along the San Mateo Coast
which is halfway between Pigeon Point and Ano Nuevo. We had to slow down as we were passing the lighthouse and then stop for a roadblock. There was a sign warning of a bike race taking place and Highway 1 was down to one lane for a short stretch. Sure enough, there were lots of cyclists and the lighthouse was the turnaround point.
Due to the number of cyclists on the road we had to be careful pulling into the car park of Gazos Grill. There were several people along the way watching the race and at least one photographer sporting a big lens. When I got home I checked online to see what the bike race was all about. Apparently it was Big Kahuna Half Ironman Distance. It was due to start with a 1.2 mile swim around the wharf in Santa Cruz starting at 7 am but due to heavy fog it was cancelled. The 56 mile bike ride and the 13.6 run went ahead though.
The last time we visited Gazos Grill we back in November 2007. Then we were the only customers. Today it was reasonably busy thanks to the bike race I expect.
We picked one of the high tables in the window with a restricted view of the ocean but a good place to watch the bikes racing by.
There was no oatmeal on the menu but I remembered from last time that is is available sometimes. When the server came to take our order I asked and today it was available so, of course, that’s what I requested. With fruit it is $5.95. I also had toast ($1.75). Tom ordered the San Gregorio Eggs Benedict which came with smoked salmon ($14.95).
Gazos Grill used to go by the name of the Beach House and the sign is still outside. It is a large restaurant separated into two sections. Some evenings they have bands playing and over the next few weeks there are several dances and parties planned.
There are no booths or a counter so not your typical diner. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The place is adorned with a vast array of pictures and posters of lighthouses, whales, elephant seals and all things nautical. In fact, lighthouses seem to be the main theme. On one wall there is a vast net hanging on the wall with fish and shellfish sculptures fixed to it. On each table was a single, almost fresh, flower in a vase and a small pumpkin.
The oatmeal came in a large round bowl with sliced strawberries and bananas. The milk came in a very small brown ceramic jug . There was not enough milk so halfway through the meal I asked for some more, which was promptly brought to me.
The restrooms are on the far side of the restaurant and although pretty standard as far as basic facilities were concerned they were lavishly decorated with pictures. The nautical theme was carried through from the restaurant. There was a laminated poster of coral pinned to the wall, a colored photo of a local beach and a rather tatty picture of mussels taped to another wall. There were also six framed pictures of beach scenes and one of the ‘I Love Lucy Show’, which, of course, has nothing to do with anything nautical. Next to the wash basin was a jug with a fish on the front. Last time there was also an easy chair here but missing this time. One other comment, the water was brownish in color.
Our conclusion – on the plus side it’s in a convenient location and it’s interestingly decorated and my oatmeal was good with ample fruit but on the negative side, Tom said his eggs could have been cooked a bit more as they were a bit runny and on the whole the food is a bit expensive.
Gazos Grill
5720 Cabrillo Highway 1
Pescadero, CA 94060
November 30 2009 | Breakfast Log | Comments Off
The beach looked nice but not the way down.
The challenge we set for ourselves today was to investigate some of the coastal accesses south of Half Moon Bay on the San Mateo coast. We normally head for our favorite spots like Franklin Point or Pigeon Point but there are many other places, some of which are private and some are unofficial.
(Click on the photos for larger versions)
We checked the weather before we set off and it looked like it was going to be a great day. When we set off all seemed to be clear and no sign of fog. Imagine our surprise when we heard on the radio that there was a fog advisory for the San Mateo coast. We discussed whether going to the coast would be a good idea. Maybe we should revise our plan and head east. Eventually we decided to continue with our plans and if we ran into thick fog, we could turn around and go elsewhere.
There was a bit of low lying fog at the junction of Highways 280 and 92 but not bad enough to turn back. Driving into Half Moon Bay was clear. The weekend before the Half Moon Bay’s annual Pumpkin Festival was held and we passed many huge pumpkin patches still with lots of pumpkins exhibited for sale. I expect there will be loads of families turned up later in the day looking for the perfect pumpkin.
In Half Moon Bay, we stopped at a drive through coffee kiosk at the junction of Highway 92 and Main Street. Although it was lit up and the ‘Open’ sign was flashing, we were dubious that it was actually open for business but we were pleased to discover it was. A very courteous youth opened the window and sold us two strong cups of very hot coffee.
Through Half Moon Bay we headed south on Highway 1 looking out for signs which said ‘Coastal Access’. We passed a road which was called
San Gregorio Beach along the San Mateo Coast
Redondo Beach Road. Did that mean there was a beach at the end? We didn’t want to take the risk. The first brown ‘coastal access’ was at Miramontes Road so we turned right. We passed a very small car park but doubted whether that led to the beach so we carried on. What we didn’t realize was that at the end of the road was the very exclusive Ritz Carlton Hotel with it’s expensive golf course attached and there was no stopping unless we were headed to one or the other. It was just after 7 and we were surprised how many people were not only out on the course but were still turning up. We beat a hasty retreat and headed back to the one small car park we had passed earlier.
At one time all the headland would have been accessible but when the land was bought and the hotel built I guess they had to provide some public access to the beach. The very small car park and one right of way to the beach, which cuts through the golf course, was their token of compliance. We did not bother to investigate any further and carried on with our quest.
We passed two marked roads to the beach but they were closed off. Our next stop was at an unmarked access. To the right was a wide gravel shoulder with a couple of overnight camper vans parked. The only point of reference was a blue San Mateo call box sign – telephone number SM001-205. The access was downhill and very steep but we went for it.
The path was twisty and deeply rutted. The recent heavy rains have gouged a deep crevice all the way down and the ground is still damp and slightly muddy. The view were spectacular though. Off to the right the sheer cliff extends into the ocean, probably the Ritz Carlton is on that peninsula. Tom stopped to take photos so I clambered on down but could not make it all the way to the beach. It is possible but the final stretch was via an unstable almost vertical drop with just a collection of tatty ropes tied to stunted bushes to prevent a headlong fall. At my age, I don’t think so. I intercepted Tom before he reached that point and we climbed back up the steep incline. At least we know not to come here again.
We drove on to San Gregorio Beach. This is a state managed beach with a proper car park right on the beach. There is a fee to be paid. At 8.30 in the morning the kiosk was unmanned but there are envelopes available to post your fee. The charges are $8 for day use ($7 for seniors) but if does allow you to use all the state beaches on the same day.
Egret at Pomponio Beach
Tom and I have been to this beach several times and each time it is different. For some reason a lot of driftwood is washed up here – mostly huge logs. I wonder where they all come from? There are always temporary structures built with this driftwood and today was no exception. One looked like a log cabin. Maybe somebody was sleeping inside. The beach itself is sandy with a large lagoon. Of course, the lagoon is always a different shape each time we come. There are notices up telling anglers not to breach the lagoon because it will kill the fish. I took a short walk along the beach and then found a convenient log to sit on and write. The sun was beginning to warm everything up.
The next state beach is Pomponio. This is very much like San Gregorio but here both the lagoon and the amount and size of the driftwood is on a smaller scale. No driftwood structures here but what was man made were a couple of huge forts made out of sand. They had obviously been made yesterday and beyond reach of high tide. I also noticed washed up on the bach lots of tiny dead white crabs. The cliffs here are interesting as well because they are high and studded with rows of small stones.
We by-passed Pescadero State Beach, which has three access pooints, due not only to lack of time but it deserves an entry all to itself at a later date. It was here we took a breakfast break – see next entry.
Our next and last beach stop was at Bean Hollow State Beach. There is a car park at each end and we used the sourthern end. This is one of our
Strange rocks at Bean Hollow State Beach
favorite beaches as it has everything that we look for in a beach – scenic views, lots of wave action, sandy and little used. Once again the rocks were interesting but completely different from Pomponio. Here they are sandstone (I think) but with lots of holes in them which made them look like honeycomb. One of the taller rocks, looking at it from a distance, reminds me of a man made town on a mountainside. Tom and I both have different interpretations as to how the holes are formed. Tom thinks they are caused by wave action whilst I believe the holes were made by burrowing shellfish of some kind. If anybody out there knows the answer, we would be interested to hear from you.
I walked to the end of the beach to see if there was any way through to the northern end. The tide was fairly high so could not make much progress along the beach although it may be possible to clamber over the rocks. At the top of the beach I noticed a footpath which heads over the bluffs so ventured along it a little way. Indeed there is a trail alongside the road which goes to the other end. I discovered a secluded little cove where a couple were enjoying a picnic. It was a perfect location protected from the wind, unless the breeze was coming off the ocean.
The weather turned out to be glorious in the end. The slight early morning haze had completely disappeared with tempretures up in the 70′s. Thank goodness we did not change our plans.
Although we checked out quite a few coastal access locations, there are several we did not have the time to do today. Apart from Pescadero State Beach, there is also Gazos Creek, Pigeon Point and one other place between Bean Hollow and Pigeon Point. We’ll have to save those for another day.
Nice scene in Pescadero
We decided to take another route home past Butano State Park and along Pescadero Creek Road to cross Skyline Blvd. But first of all a short stop in Pescadero. It is always a pleasure to revisit this special place. Duartes Tavern was bustling. I noticed that the signs for ‘The Rock Guy’ were not on the telegraph posts in the street. When I got home I checked online and found one small reference to the fact that he died this past winter. Another local ‘character’ that will be missed.
We had a look round Made in Pescadero. We love their hand made furniture and the smell of wood but the prices are a little out of our budget. In Arcangeli’s Country Bakery we bought some sourdough garlic bread, just out of the oven, and half a pound of mild cheddar cheese. Just right for a little picnic. There were signs in the store to say they now had a picnic area at the back of the store next to the Pescadero Creek. So we went to have a look. It is always interesting to check out buildings from the back. The picnic area is nice and quiet and there was nobody else around. On our stroll back to the street, Tom pointed out some flowering artichokes in the garden next door. I had never seen those huge thistle like flowers before.
After finishing our stroll around Pescadero, we made our way back to the car and the very pleasant drive home. The end of another perfect day.
November 19 2009 | Special Places | 2 Comments »
Heading down the trail to Franklin Point. This photo looks back towards Highway 1.
After stopping for breakfast in Santa Cruz, we set off for our favorite spot on the coast – Franklin Point. When we left San Jose just before 7, the temperature was already 77 degrees and it looked like it was going to be another hot one. What we needed was to cool off at the coast. We were expecting it to be a little foggy and in fact there was a sign on Highway 17 which said to watch out for fog ahead but as we reached the crest of the Santa Cruz Mountains there was no fog and in fact there was still none in sight as we approached Santa Cruz. It was a different story though when we left Santa Cruz to headed up the coast. First of all it was just a little foggy but it cleared around Davenport, only to appear again as we approached Ano Nuevo. That’s the trouble with fog, you never know where it is going to be exactly.
Franklin Point was not too bad actually. As we got out of the car there was a stiff breeze so we donned our jackets. There were no other cars parked by the tree stump but ahead of us on the trail we could see another couple walking towards the beach. The trail is only half a mile long to the beach. I strode ahead so Tom could take his time to stop along the way and take photos.
It has been nearly a year since our last visit and I was looking forward to sitting on my favorite bench. The trail has been modified since then.
Click on this photo for a larger version and you'll be able to see our favorite bench at Franklin Point
The first modification was man made. About two thirds of the way along it used to get very wet and muddy in the winter and on occasions the trail has been impassable at this point. A few years ago small logs were put down over the worst section to form a pathway but over time they have either been burried of have disappeared. A raised boardwalk has now been constructed, which will make it possible to walk to the beach every day of the year. The second modification to the trail was natural. Due to shifting sand, the trail itself has been altered nearer the beach.
When I arrived at the beach, I took my time to absorb the scene, taking deep breaths to fill my lungs with the fresh air. The only people in sight were the couple who I had seen earlier and they were making a beeline for the bench, which was clearly visible half a mile away up on the point. But they only stopped a few seconds and did not even sit down before they turned away and carried on walking south. Such a pity. It might be blowing up there but five minutes rest on the bench would have set them up for the day.
I didn’t head for the bench straightaway but walked on past for about half a mile, just to see what I could see. I stopped to look down into a little cove and spotted a huge pink starfish clinging to a rock. The path at this point was perilously close to the edge of the cliff.
Turning back, I retraced my steps to the point where a boardwalk leads to the bench. Last time I remarked how the boardwalk itself was beginning to deteriorate. This time I noticed how some of the metal poles were very rusty and a few have corroded to the point where the metal is very flaky. I won’t be surprised if on my next visit some of them will have rusted through completely.
Looking out at Franklin Point from our favorite bench at our favorite place along the San Mateo Coast.
Eventually I arrived at my bench. OK, it was windy. As I wrote I had to hold down the pages of my journal with the other hand, but I’m not complaining. The sound of the waves coming in and going out and the surf breaking over the rocks was soothing. The smell of the ocean was invigorating – all those negative ions working their magic. On top of all that, I could taste the brine on my lips. The fog was thicker out to sea and I could not see Pigeon Point Lighthouse off to my right. I knew it was there but the light was not even visible.
Normally we see a lot of pelicans flying low around this point and Tom waits patiently for them to arrive. You have no warning at all that they are coming. Suddenly they appear, gliding in formation and skimming the waves. But today we were out of luck. We saw lots of gulls and cormorants sitting out on the rocks but not one pelican.
As we sat there, contemplating life and the future; glorying in the scenery and the cool breezes, the sun began to warm our backs. Ironically the fog seemed to be getting thicker off the coast. Eventually we both took a deep sigh, turned our backs on the ocean and headed back to the heat of the Santa Clara Valley.
August 02 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
It has been over a month since we have done any day trips, due to a nasty cold that Tom has been suffering from and
San Gregorio Valley
several very wet weekends. This weekend is not going to be any dryer but as only scattered showers are forecast today, we decided to at least go for a drive.
We set off just before 7am, heading towards the coast. On the peaks of the Santa Cruz mountains there was a dusting of snow. There was a beautiful but ominous cloud suspended above. That must be the next storm moving in. We desperately need the rain though. After two dry winters, we welcome the rain but it has been a long time coming this year. It probably will not be enough,though, to prevent water rationing this summer. When it rains here it hopefully falls as snow over the Sierras and when that snow melts in the spring, it fills our reservoirs.
The sun was shining but the temperature only registered at 43 degrees F down in the valley. It is the sun shining on the clouds which made them look so beautiful.
We took Highway 85 to 280 and headed north. Near the Alpine Road exit, we caught sight of a partial rainbow but it disappeared before our eyes. Above us a hawk hovered, the sun making it look almost white. Just before we reached the Woodside exit the rain started to fall but only lasted a short while.
We took the scenic route to Highway 92 by turning off 280 at the Edgewood Road exit and turned left. As we drove back under the freeway, the view in front of us was glorious. Ahead was a heavily wooded slope, c0vered in pine trees and with small patches of flog clinging to the trees and filling the small dips. At Canada Road we turned right and drove past Filoli House (open Tuesday – Sunday) and the Pulgas Water Temple (open week days only). Neither were open but one day we will visit both.
Tom wanted to stop and take some photos but there were “No Parking At Any Time’ notices posted at regular intervals plus a high wire fence made it impossible to take a decent shot. Further along we did find a place to park where there was no fence. From there Tom had a good view down to Crystal Springs Reservoir, which is the source of San Francisco’s drinking water.
This section of Canada Road is closed to cars every Sunday for cyclists to have the road to themselves (apart from the odd roller skater). We once brought our bikes to Bike Sunday. It was great and we must come again. We will be taking part in the Strawberry Fields Forever charity bike ride in May so we may well come here again on our path to getting back into condition.
We turned left onto Highway 92 on the final stretch into Half Moon Bay. First we crossed the reservoir and then started the climb over the Coastal Range. Crossing Skyline Blvd we caught our first glimpse of the ocean.
The downhill section of the road into Half Moon Bay is always fascinating. There are so many interesting businesses along the way – Christmas tree farms, pumpkin patches (though at this time of the year there are no pumpkins to be seen), equestrian centers, plant nurseries, huge metal sculptures of animals and further along a lot animals carved out of wood, a winery (it used to be called Obester Winery but the name has changed to Nebbia Winery) and Spanish Town with it’s seven shops selling a variety of crafts.
We drove through the historic main street of Half Moon Bay but didn’t stop. There was nothing open. We were thinking of stopping for breakfast here but the Main Street Grill was not open (and it was gone 8 am!). Pescadero will be our breakfast destination. At the end of the street we turned left onto Highway 1 and enjoyed a glorious ride. The sun was shining, even though there were still those threatening clouds around, and the ocean was very calm with not one white cap to be seen. Everything was wet and dripping and lots of surface water on the road.
Just before San Gregorio State Beach we turned left on La Honda Road towards San Gregorio. We are taking another scenic route, this time into Pescadero. On the way we pass a couple of small trees covered in pink blossom. In San Gregorio, which is just a couple of houses and a rather quaint little store, we took a left on Stagecoach Road. Tom wanted to take a photo of the valley.
Along Stage Road heading into Pescadero
We drove back to San Gregorio, crossed La Honda Road and carried on along Stagecoach Road, passing the old stage post on our right and further along, up on a small rise, the old school house on our left. The road starts to go uphill and there are many twists and turns. We think it is along here that our friend Tim had his encounter with the mountain lion (see the post on Point Reyes) so we had our eyes peeled but we were out of luck. The road continued to wind around giving us distant views of the ocean one minute a secluded valley the next. Approaching Pescadero we passed a farm on the right which had an enormous rusty metal skeleton “Terminator” sculpture holding a machine gun on the roadside. Passing the cemetery, we entered the main street of Pescadero.
We had breakfast at Duartes Tavern. This is one of our truly favorite places to eat at any time of the day (see the post on Duartes Tavern). Today was no exception. As it was Valentine’s Day, I expected it to be more crowded. I did hear though that they were fully booked later in the day. There was a fresh red rose on all the tables. Tom had an omelet and I had oatmeal with a side of wheat toast. With the oatmeal you get milk, brown sugar, raisins and pecans There were two sorts of home made scrummy jam served with the toast. While there, I bought one of their legendary ollallieberry pies to take home. A bit expensive at $23 but a splendid treat for a special occasion. I was presented with a single, white rose, when we left – as all women were. What a lovely gesture.
We left Pescadero by turning left onto Pescadero Creek Road. which is another scenic route. So far we
Misty fog threading through the trees
have not had any more showers but when we drove through the redwoods big drops of water fell from the branches. Before we reached La Honda, we turned right on Alpine Road. Tom and I have never been on this stretch of road before and it was spectacular. Very narrow with just room for one car in parts and with lots of hair pin bends along the way. At one point, we passed a couple of parked cars on a small lay by and I noticed a trail leading to a little wooden bridge over the creek. I looked on the map and saw that it was the Towne Fire trail which heads back towards Pescadero Creek Road. We’ll have to walk it one day. There were a few residences we passed but we couldn’t see them. The only indication were mail boxes and huge imposing gates.
We stopped to take some photos where the woods ended and the open spaces began. On our left was the Russian Ridge Open Space and on our right the Skyline Ridge Open Space. The views were amazing and the rising fog looked like smoke.
Approaching Skyline Blvd, we drove though several patches of fog and encountered four cyclists freewheeling down an incline before they hit the next rise to Skyline. Fortunately they turned left and we crossed Skyline and descended Page Mill Road to 280. In several spots we had good views down to Palo Alto, the Dumbarton Bridge and the whole South Bay. Halfway down we saw a flare in the road. Rounding the corner we had to stop because a Land Rover had gone into a tree. Fortunately the driver was not hurt as we saw him sitting at the side of the road looking rather dejected and embarrassed. Soon we hit 280 and were soon home.
We had a very enjoyable day, saw some wonderful sights, had a great breakfast plus we avoided the rain. What more could anybody ask for?
February 14 2009 | Special Places | No Comments »
We are off to our favorite place on the San Mateo Coast – Franklin Point. Let’s hope it is not fog bound this time. According to the weather forecast, it looks as though Santa Cruz will be clear and bright but there is fog at Half Moon Bay. Franklin Point is between the two, so we will just have to take a chance.
(Click on the image for a larger version)
The journey to Santa Cruz was more or less mundane until we were headed down the mountain on the other side of Scotts Valley on Highway 17. Suddenly I saw a car on the other side of the road fly into the air and crash into the trees at the side of the road. Tom saw the dust but not the car. I was really shaken up but there was nothing we could do as there was a concrete barrier down the middle of the road. I looked behind and there were cars stopping so knew someone would be calling 911. I just couldn’t get the image out of my mind and was really concerned about the driver and any passengers there may have been in the car. I knew I would be worrying all day.
We drove into Santa Cruz for breakfast – see previous entry – and were back on the road again by 7.40. Our route took us back to Highway 1 where we turned north.
Just outside Santa Cruz we saw signs up warning of a bike race and soon we saw the cyclists. We passed a lot of them between Santa Cruz and Davenport. Most of them were serious competitors with their super bikes, Lycra gear, cool shades and space age helmets. Some were making light work of the hills and some seemed to be struggling. At the front of the cyclists were three motor cycle cops. I wonder how far they are going.
It must be getting close to October and the pumpkin season. We passed several pumpkin patches being made ready. In one there was already a huge display of pumpkins all waiting to be picked out by excited children, although, of course, it was not open at 8 a.m.
Oh no! We can see fog ahead. This looks like a repeat of our aborted visit last month when the weather was too bad to even walk to the beach. Maybe it will clear – always the optimist.
We stop at Big Basin Redwoods State Park where the redwoods come all the way down to the coast. Tom wanted to take photos of the fog over the creek and maybe the brown pelicans taking a rest in the lagoon on the beach. I stay in the car and write.
Here the sun is shining which is really weird as we are surrounded by fog. Out on the ocean I can vaguely see the die hard surfers waiting patiently to catch a wave. The sea doesn’t look high today so maybe they are just beginners.
Tom has now left the creek and has made his way across Highway 1 to the lagoon. There are several pelicans on the water but now dozens are on the sand and more fly in to join them. I guess this must be their meeting place every morning where they catch up with all the gossip.
I’ve been siting here 15 minutes and here come the three motor cycle cops and not far behind the first two cyclists appear. I guess we are going to have a bit of trouble getting away from here. Tom is making his way back to the car. Maybe we can get away before the bulk of them arrive. I can’t see any more coming at the moment. We were able to make our escape. As we turned back onto the road I could see a few cyclists coming down the hill behind us.
We pass Costanoa and pull into the parking strip near the tree stump., There is one van already there and three surfers are getting ready to walk to the beach. As I get out of the car I can smell the sea. Mmmm.
I set off first. Yes it is foggy but it is not as bad or as cold as the last time so we decided to go for it. At the top first rise I paused as I could see on the path ahead a mother deer and her young fawn. Both lifted their heads and looked at me. I would have waited until they decided to move away but at that moment two of the surfers come by. The two deer trotted off down the path and I never saw them again.
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September 12 2008 | Special Places | No Comments »
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